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crabbyabby

Ignition coil for a 244-5 with an Onan E140V motor

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crabbyabby

Recently picked up my first wheelhorse, went to turn it over and after 12-15 seconds the coil started smoking and now seems completely fried, someone had a hot wire going directly to the ground on the coil. I'm looking for any solution to replacing the coil that isn't spending almost $400 for an OEM replacement. looking for either a source for a cheap alternative or maybe converting it from magneto coil, whatever you guys can come up with, thanks a bunch.

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crabbyabby

quick update; tested magneto with ohm reader, its definitely shot, I have found some replacements new for around $150, that still seems very high to me and I am wondering if anyone has every retrofitted a similar coil to do the job of this one, the P/N I have is 166-0799

Edited by crabbyabby
added text

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crabbyabby

Another thought, will any old coil that I can get to bolt down be sufficient? I see no reason why it wouldn't work, but I've never tried it myself and I'm having a hard time finding any information about it online.

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pacer

Did you do the ebay search? I have the older B43 Onan and went to the bay and they show dozens of coils, all seemingly the same or close to. I chose one that really didnt look at all like mine and it works great. Also came with a condenser and wires for .... 25-30$??

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crabbyabby

I have looked on ebay, for my exact one they are all way overpriced. the only thing that really matters is the spacing for the bolts, correct? as long as I can bolt it down and gap it, it should work?

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oldredrider

PM sent

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WHX??

:WRS: Crabby

I may be able to help out if Old red can't. Last I checked I have a 244H parts tractor somewhere here! :lol:

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pacer
1 hour ago, crabbyabby said:

I have looked on ebay, for my exact one they are all way overpriced. the only thing that really matters is the spacing for the bolts, correct? as long as I can bolt it down and gap it, it should work?

 

Well, as a matter of fact the mount that came with min was different -- I just used my mount......

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crabbyabby

I have another question, while I'm waiting for a new coil, I'm rewiring the entire harness essentially due to corrosion, and now when I go to start the neutral safety and seat relay clicks as soon as I turn the key to run, and again when I turn it to start, but the starter does not crank, I've looked up the wiring demystification and the only area of confusion I'm having is whether the standalone "o" on the diagram stands for the 87 or 87a pin on the relay?

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oldredrider

Check your fuse(s)..probably the culprit.

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crabbyabby
14 hours ago, oldredrider said:

Check your fuse(s)..probably the culprit.

 

All fuses are good, it used to blow the 25a fuse every time I turned the ignition to "on" but now it does not. I replaced the 25a fuse to a automatic resetting 25a breaker because I went through about 15 fuses trouble shooting it. still only clicks the safety relay even if I use a 25a fuse in place of the breaker. I'm assuming I read the diagram wrong because they are all new 14AWG wires with spade connectors and even if I bypass safety switches by jumping terminals the only relay to click is the safety relay. 

 

edit: serious thanks to everyone replying :grin:, this tractor is giving me a serious headache

Edited by crabbyabby

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gwest_ca
On 5/6/2019 at 6:57 PM, crabbyabby said:

I've looked up the wiring demystification and the only area of confusion I'm having is whether the standalone "o" on the diagram stands for the 87 or 87a pin on the relay?

This may help. Click on th picture

There is one illustration there that shows the relay not energized. That is the same as if it was sitting alone on a workbench.

The 87a is normally closed (NC) meaning that contact is connected to 30 when on the bench.

The 87 is normally open (NO) meaning that contact is not connected to 30 when on the bench.

 

The 85 and 86 is the magnetic coil that pulls the relay contacts down when powered. The contacts leave 87a and go to 87.

The drawings should always show the coil pulling the contacts towards it when energized but have seen cases where is it not illustrated correctly. 

 

A standalone o is not being used at the time and sometimes never used.

An o with a wire going to it is used.

These are just the contacts the wires go to.

 

Garry

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crabbyabby
2 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

This may help.

 It sure did, after years of only kind of knowing how relays work, I feel like this simple post has finally broke through for me. Thanks so much!

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The Tuul Crib

:text-welcomeconfetti:to :rs:

 

:wwp:

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crabbyabby

Good news! I started from scratch and rewired the entire tractor again, thanks to everyone here it finally came to life! (minus spark because of fried coil)… But all of the safeties and switches do what they are supposed to now, used a liberal amount of liquid electrical tape on all connections as well. Also, I chopped the steering shaft and welded up the gear on the end of it because it was heavily wore down, and cleaned the carb (filled with ethanol gel). 

 

I'll put up some pictures soon when I clean it up a bit!

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red_ryders

I recently found mine was bad and bought a "good" used one from eBay. I ran the mower for about three hours and the "good" one failed.

 

Like those posts above, the price of new ones is sky high. Anyone have a spare they want to sell?

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