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csvt99

Improving Slope Traction?

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csvt99

Lots of great options! Well I got suckered into buying a pair of cast iron weights tonight by an original wheel horse dealer. I will post pics in a new post. I figure I will try weights, than adding fluid, and then ag tires if I still have trouble. 

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Sarge

When I install the iron wheel weights on freshly painted rims I prefer to glue some 1/4" thick rubber pads along the rim of the weight where it contacts the wheel - this does stand them proud of the rim a little bit, but prevents damage to the finish. 

 

Sarge

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csvt99
2 hours ago, Sarge said:

When I install the iron wheel weights on freshly painted rims I prefer to glue some 1/4" thick rubber pads along the rim of the weight where it contacts the wheel - this does stand them proud of the rim a little bit, but prevents damage to the finish. 

 

Sarge

Any suggestions on what to use for rubber pads? I know others used duct tape too...

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82Caddy

Old tubes from tires worked well for me

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mmmmmdonuts

I run loaded tires and chains all year round even on my mower. Honestly I believe the chains make the biggest difference as far as traction. Even comparing them to Ags chains are far superior in my opinion. 

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Sarge

Just 1/4" rubber belting.

Snow plow blades use them along the top to prevent the snow from hitting the windshield/industrial belting from conveyors - etc.

 

Sarge

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csvt99

Thanks everyone for your help! I got the weights on today and it made a HUGE difference on the slopes. Granted it is getting drier out but I'm sure it will still be significant with some moisture. I'm going to hold off on the ag tires and chains for now. 

IMG_20190615_164956.jpg

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BESTDOGEVER

My personal experience with mowing slopes is you need the widest mower deck your machine can handle to help stabilize it  otherwise you should only mow up and down from a safety standpoint. mowing across is asking for trouble 

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ohiofarmer

 If that slope is sufficient that you find yourself sitting on the edge of your seat, be aware of a safety issue.  The cantilever seats put a hack of a load on the rear frame tunnel that is made of too thin metal.  My 520 cracked and the seat nearly detached from the tractor. it would have been a disaster had it happened while i was at the top of a slope staring into the "jaws of death" culvert and having a running lawn mower land on top of me.

 

 You have to detach the seat and pan, but the later series tractors need to be re-inforced to correct the problem....

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csvt99
10 hours ago, ohiofarmer said:

 If that slope is sufficient that you find yourself sitting on the edge of your seat, be aware of a safety issue.  The cantilever seats put a hack of a load on the rear frame tunnel that is made of too thin metal.  My 520 cracked and the seat nearly detached from the tractor. it would have been a disaster had it happened while i was at the top of a slope staring into the "jaws of death" culvert and having a running lawn mower land on top of me.

 

 You have to detach the seat and pan, but the later series tractors need to be re-inforced to correct the problem....

Thanks for the warning. I've been mostly mowing up and down but I will stay aware of it. If I move much in the seat it tries to shut off on me.

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troutbum70

Yep my 417 cracked same place and I would suspect for the same reason, I spent a lot of time with my butt hanging way out passed the seat pan and tire. Had to make a piece to reinforce it and that was many years ago. Still holding up so far, but I don't mow those places with the tractor any more I use an all wheel drive push mower. Much safer no more rolling the tractor over.

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