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Retired Wrencher

SAE 30 W

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ZXT

The reason I suggested thicker oil is that if clearances are loose, thicker oil will obviously help with the problem. Assuming that it probably called for 10w-30 new, I can't see why one would run a thinner oil when cold, especially on an engine with loose tolerances.  

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LengerichKA88
15 hours ago, ZXT said:

 

Good to know! 

 

I've never seen a reason to run synthetic in anything thus far though.

When I worked at the Walmart tire and lube, 12 years ago (?), I was always told that you can go from conventional to synthetic, but you can’t go from synthetic to conventional. 

Now for 12 years I’ve kept that in mind, and whenever I bought a car I always asked what kind of oil was in it. It continued to get what was in it.  I’ve been told recently that you can go back and forth, because of the evolution of oils, but I still don’t want to risk ruining the family grocery getter with something as simple as oil. Even with the HHR (which calls for synthetic 5w20), the oil says it’s good for 5k or so, but I’ve watched the “Oil life” display and counted miles, 3100 is where it reaches “0%”. 

The only real difference I see between conventional and synthetic is about 40 bucks an oil change. 

 

As far as the original question, if it’s not Valvoline, Lucas Oil, or Kohler, it doesn’t go in my machine.  I got kohler 30 from Rural King, somewhere around 3 bucks a bottle 

Edited by LengerichKA88
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rjg854

I used Walmart's Tech 2000 brand and Fram oil filters in my '94 Ford Ranger.  Drove that truck for 16 years, changed the oil every 5000 miles, for 235,000 miles.  Never had to do any engine work other than starters and plugs. It never used oil, didn't have to add any either between oil changes. 

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adsm08
23 hours ago, ZXT said:

The reason I suggested thicker oil is that if clearances are loose, thicker oil will obviously help with the problem. Assuming that it probably called for 10w-30 new, I can't see why one would run a thinner oil when cold, especially on an engine with loose tolerances.  

 

It called for 5W-30 new. It dwells at about 40 PSI until the engine starts to get warm, and then it drops off to about 6-8 PSI at hot idle. 5 PSI plus 1 for every 1000 RPM is the minimum spec, and she idles at 750, so I'm in spec, just near the low end. My other one runs about 20 PSI at hot idle, so I would like to see higher numbers, even if they aren't needed.

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