Newly purchased 520xi

[Rxracer 12]

So last weekend I picked up a 520xi for $500 with 652 hours. After getting it I mowed some and engine oil temp was getting hot so i shut down. After that I took it and serviced it, pulled what motor covers off i could get to and pressure washed it since it was packed with grass and dirt. 

Did oil change in both motor any hydro system and went and did my mowing again last night.  Temp gauge was on the upper end of the green but not sure what's the typical needle position for these tractors. 

I'll attach pics if any one has some input that would he great.

Thanks!

Rob

[Rxracer 12]

By the way the temp gauge hit that point after about a half hour, and stayed there the rest of the time while I finished. Another 20 mins or so. 

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

10 minutes ago, Rxracer said:

By the way the temp gauge hit that point after about a half hour, and stayed there the rest of the time while I finished. Another 20 mins or so. 

I believe you'll be fine as long as it stays in the green...but to properly clean the engine it will need to be removed to get all the shrouding off JMO and experiences...it really doesn't take much more time.

[Rxracer 12]

Any guides on pulling the motor? 

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

My 522xi has always run on the hot side of the green.  Last year I added an oil cooler and that helped a bit.  I had to place it up on the firewall to get some air flow.  This spring I pulled the engine and removed the shroud to see if it was plugged up with grass, but it was fairly clean.  I have tried to use an infrared temperature gauge to check the temperature.  I forget the numbers, but they were within normal limits.  At this point, I am beginning to suspect the temperature sender or the gauge.  The sender is NLA, so I might try an aftermarket gauge and see what happens.

 

Pulling the engine is straight forward.  Disconnect the normal stuff - gas line, choke and throttle cables, belt, and wires.  Disconnect the drive shaft (I removed the two bolts),  Loosen the firewall.  There are four bolts on the engine base plate.  Three are though bolts, and the left rear is more like a stud.  Remove the three through bolts and the nut off the stud.  Lift the engine to clear the stud and move the engine forward to clear the firewall.  To re-install reverse the operations.  The stud really helps locating the engine.  Make sure you don't pinch the fire wall under the engine base.  (I wonder how I know that!).  The hard part is getting the drive shaft back together - not much room in there.

 

Hope this helps.

 

P.S.  Use an engine hoist - the Kohler V-twin is heavy.

[Rxracer 12]

I have a IR temp gun, by chance do you know the temp limits so I can shoot it. 

Last night when mowing it was around 70ish degrees and it does have the 52" deck. 

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

20 minutes ago, Rxracer said:

I have a IR temp gun, by chance do you know the temp limits so I can shoot it. 

Last night when mowing it was around 70ish degrees and it does have the 52" deck. 

 

Best I can recollect, The oil sump was reading about 175-180 deg. F.  An internet search said that was about normal.  Next time I mow, I check it again.

My 522xi is running a 52" deck also.

[Rxracer 12]

Thanks much appreciated!

[oliver2-44 8,837]

[Rxracer 12]

What's the going rate for a 520xi with 650ish hours? I felt as thought it was a really good deal. But I'm no expert by any means. 

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

32 minutes ago, Rxracer said:

What's the going rate for a 520xi with 650ish hours? I felt as thought it was a really good deal. But I'm no expert by any means. 

Depends on overall condition (paint seat tires ect) and area you are in... The last one I bought with extra rear tires, 60" deck, a rear clevis hitch and 1200 hrs $750...then found the 42" single stage thrower $200...

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

So much depends on location.  In my area, $1400 to $1800 in good condition with a decent deck.  I think that is a bargain compared to what $2000 buys at a big box store.

[Rxracer 12]

2 more questions,

1- how would I go about checking my rpm are full throttle. I'm wondering if it's low.

2- the first 3/4 of the throttle don't seem to do any rpm changes. Is that normal? It doesn't seem normal to me. 

[bizzo15 52]

12 hours ago, Rxracer said:

2 more questions,

1- how would I go about checking my rpm are full throttle. I'm wondering if it's low.

2- the first 3/4 of the throttle don't seem to do any rpm changes. Is that normal? It doesn't seem normal to me. 

To check RPM I have a cheap digital tachometer that you wrap around the spark plug wire and it gives you a reading.  As far as the throttle operation mine is identical and I've always thought it doesn't seem normal but I'll be curious as to what others chime in and say.  The XI's are great machines though that can take a lot of abuse.

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

Another option to check RPM is to get a tachometer that uses laser to bounce off a piece of reflective tape.  HF makes a nice one for a low price.

 

I use the HF version, I put a piece of reflective tape on the front of the drive shaft tube.  My 522xi was running at 5200 rpm and WOT.  I bumped that up a little to 3400 rpm.  IIRC Toro specs the RPM at 5200.  Kohler and the Eaton 1100 hydro say 3600 rpm max.  I split the difference.

 

My 522xi does the same as your throttle lever.  Very little rpm change for over 1/2 of the travel.  I've tried all the adjustment and nothing helped much.

[Rxracer 12]

Thanks! I was looking at "tiny tach" but a tool from HF since they are local wouldn't be bad at all either. Than it has more than one purpose.

 

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

This is what I use.

 

HF Tachometer

[Rxracer 12]

Mowed last night. Hit the oil filter with my temp gun was running over 240°. 

Pulling motor here in about a half hour to clean the back of the heads. What do you use to replace the foam seal from the motor to the fire wall? I noticed mine is looking a little ragged. 

[Rxracer 12]

Not sure if this is enough of a clog to cause the over heating? Fan looks good. 

Any ideas on how to remove the clutch? Front main has a small leak and planned to replace the seal.

 

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

2 hours ago, Rxracer said:

What do you use to replace the foam seal from the motor to the fire wall? I noticed mine is looking a little ragged. 

 

My foam seals look a bit ragged too.  I just did the best I could.  Next time I pull an engine, I'll probably replace it.  I think that seal just forces the incoming air to come from outside of the engine compartment.

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

19 minutes ago, Rxracer said:

Not sure if this is enough of a clog to cause the over heating? Fan looks good. 

Any ideas on how to remove the clutch? Front main has a small leak and planned to replace the seal.

 

The clog doesn't look to bad to me either, mine looked a little better when I pulled the shroud.  I never did get much out from around the cylinders and heads.

 

The clutch is easy to remove.  I used an impact wrench to remove the bolt on the end of crank shaft.  Disconnected the wires and pulled the entire clutch assembly off.

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

Just a thought, you said the crank seal is leaking. Is on the fan side.  If yes, oil spraying back over the cylinder will attract dust, dirt, and clipping and block the cooling fins.

[Rxracer 12]

No it's leaking lightly on the clutch side not the fan side. I pulled the plugs they look okay. Doesn't look like it's running lean or anything. 

 

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

2 minutes ago, Rxracer said:

No it's leaking lightly on the clutch side not the fan side.

 

 

That's what I thought!

[Rxracer 12]

I got th clutch pulled ect. The bearing in the back clutch cover feels a little rough. It's staked in so plan to replace that, trying to get any place to have it in stock. And trying to get the main seal. 

The fan appears to be in good condition. Any other pics that you would like to see that I could be missing something on?