315-8 Won't stay running.

[WHwest8597 85]

I'm continuing to have problems with having my 315-8 cutting out after 10 minutes if running.  I changed fuel filter.  Pulling the choke doesn't help at all.  After letting it sit a while it will start back up and run for 10 minutes and stop.

 

Any suggestions.  I have turned the gas cap back and still nothing.  I have no problem starting at first.  It runs, then stops, cools down, then will start up again.

 

Thanks.

[ebinmaine 73,042]

Possibly something electronic? Bad condenser? Bad coil?

 

Most times when something will run, die, cool, run again, it isn't in the fuel system...

[WHwest8597 85]

 Are these items attached to the engine or behind the dash?

[BOB ELLISON 2,981]

I'm sure someone will chime in later but I think it's in the ignition module .it may fail after the engines runs a little while and the module gets hot. Run it till it stops and take the plug out. Ground the plug to see if it's firing a good blue spark. If not it may be the module.

[BOB ELLISON 2,981]

Download the manual from the manual section if you haven't already and look at the wiring diagram it will show you where it is. I think there a little pricey. If so you can put a sd in the wanted section someone will have one cheaper I'm sure.

[The Tuul Crib 7,339]

315 -8 ? Do you have pictures?   

 

[ZXT 2,401]

I'm going to hedge my bets on it being the ignition coil or module. When a coil starts to go bad, it will work when cool but it'll break down when it gets hot. Once it cools down, it'll run fine until it warms up again.

 

As has already been stated, check for spark when the engine dies. 

[WVHillbilly520H 10,376]

Sounds like a coil to me as well... I have a 315-8 that I just acquired last summer, starts easy runs smooth and quiet...

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,532]

This should be the parts list for the engine. Compare the engine numbers - CH15S-44533

https://www.partstree.com/parts/kohler-engines/engines-horizontal/ch15-44533-kohler-ch15-engine-command-pro-toro-15hp-11-2kw/

 

What I would do is make up a properly gapped spark plug with a ground lead to have ready when the engine quits. Run the tractor until it quits and immediately switch the spark plug lead to the test plug and see if you still have spark.

 

The test plug has a hose clamp around the base of the plug that captures a length of wire with an alligator clip on the other end. Get the clip on a good known engine ground. The reason for this is these coils normally fire at say 20,000 to 30,000 volts. If the spark gap is too wide the voltage may go to 40,000 or more volts because the energy is in there and needs to be released. The problem is the coil insulation will not contain very high voltage so it can blow a hole in the insulation. It could happen inside the coil before the spark gets to the plug wire so you never see it and the coil is done.

This caution at one time was in service manuals because in the early days the insulation was not as good as it is today but it still has it's limits with the insulation improvements. The key is the clip on the end of the ground wire must be grounded so the coil does not exceed it's normal limits. You do not want to ruin a possibly good coil testing it.

 

Garry

 

 

[buckrancher 2,695]

if you still have spark after it quits running you are vapor locking in the fuel system

 

brian

[WVHillbilly520H 10,376]

3 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

This should be the parts list for the engine. Compare the engine numbers - CH15S-44533

https://www.partstree.com/parts/kohler-engines/engines-horizontal/ch15-44533-kohler-ch15-engine-command-pro-toro-15hp-11-2kw/

 

What I would do is make up a properly gapped spark plug with a ground lead to have ready when the engine quits. Run the tractor until it quits and immediately switch the spark plug lead to the test plug and see if you still have spark.

 

The test plug has a hose clamp around the base of the plug that captures a length of wire with an alligator clip on the other end. Get the clip on a good known engine ground. The reason for this is these coils normally fire at say 20,000 to 30,000 volts. If the spark gap is too wide the voltage may go to 40,000 or more volts because the energy is in there and needs to be released. The problem is the coil insulation will not contain very high voltage so it can blow a hole in the insulation. It could happen inside the coil before the spark gets to the plug wire so you never see it and the coil is done.

This caution at one time was in service manuals because in the early days the insulation was not as good as it is today but it still has it's limits with the insulation improvements. The key is the clip on the end of the ground wire must be grounded so the coil does not exceed it's normal limits. You do not want to ruin a possibly good coil testing it.

 

Garry

 

 

Or go to Harbor Freight and get yourself one of these...https://www.harborfreight.com/90-in-line-spark-checker-63593.html...it will do what Garry described above and can stay attached while running.