Jump to content
trailhopper

520H Fuse Block Alternatives

Recommended Posts

trailhopper

I've been contending with some issues on my new to me 520H. Got my tachometer working, so on to my last questionable gauge, the voltmeter. While trying to track down my low voltage reading on my voltmeter, I inspected my fuse block and found heat damage on the fused circuit closest to the rear of the tractor. Not sure what fuse rating is supposed to be in there, a 25 amp is there now, but that position is melted. Is this the Charging Circuit? Should it have a 30 amp fuse?

 

I can put an original style back in for about $6:

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-85668-Black-Block-Holds/dp/B000CO7I04/ref=sr_1_1?crid=39RBRDARXH1UQ&keywords=dorman+fuse+block&qid=1554042190&s=automotive&sprefix=dorman+fuse%2Cautomotive%2C173&sr=1-1-catcorr

This looks like the OEM unit and what is marketed for our tractors by several vendors, but is only rated at 20 amps. Probably the reason they always melt on everybody.

 

But I'm seriously considering one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H84960061-4-Way-Axial-Single/dp/B000VUEDVQ/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?keywords=hella+4+way+fuse+block&qid=1554042384&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr1

or

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H84960081-6-Way-Axial-Single/dp/B000VUEDWA/ref=sr_1_11?crid=2SRB7A2HJ4ZIZ&keywords=hella+fuse+block&qid=1554042307&s=gateway&sprefix=hella+fuse+block%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-11

Still only a 20 amp rating, but it should fit without much modification and I'm willing to try something different knowing the predictable outcome of the OE unit, and Hella makes decent stuff.

 

I haven't taken the original apart, but am assuming that each circuit is independent (given the existing wiring) and does not utilize a single positive bus bar. More like just a convenient place to mount 3 fuses/circuits, instead of a traditional fuse panel Is that correct? Anybody see any glaring issues I'm overlooking?

 

-Scott

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
lynnmor

I would use the original design, there is a bus tying some contacts together.  I add an extra fuse for accessories.  Get a cover for the new one.  cover

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
trailhopper

Would you happen to know which circuits are linked together? What fuse ratings should be in the sockets? Is it the charge circuit that's melting?

 

I wish the original design was more robust and that my problem was an exception, but it sounds like it's not. I like to keep things original, even though mine is a worker, but more importantly I need it reliable. I mow about 15 acres with 2 Wheel Horses at a property 10 hours away on occasion. I'm not totally against the original design, and may use it again, but with all of the problems that I have read about I would like to fix it for good.

 

-Scott

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

The original is fine Scott. The problem is dirt and crap gets down in the block and cause poor connection/corrosion which cause heat which causes melting. A cover as Lynn suggested helps keep the dirt/water out. A couple of my other late model vertical horses used the same fuse block and I unknowingly helped the corrosion problem with frequent after mowing washes. One of them I cut the old fuse block out and wired in individual automotive blade type fuse holders with the protective cover. 

Wiring diagram shows which fuses are bussed together and the proper fuse. Let us know if you need help with finding a diagram, should be one here in files.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...