lynnmor 7,789 #26 Posted March 31, 2019 The idea of lifting the front to grease is a good one, there are 3 fittings involved. At each end of the axle and the one for the pivot in the middle. Often the middle one will not accept grease unless it is lifted. I actually grease the end ones and the mower deck wheels every time I mow, but I have a huge amount to mow. There are no bushings in the axle, so if that gets worn it is a major repair job. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,394 #27 Posted March 31, 2019 (edited) My brther and I have three 314's -(and soon a fourth) two hydros and two 8 speeds. They are nice tractors to operate just about anything you can attach to them. Edited March 31, 2019 by Lane Ranger 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #28 Posted March 31, 2019 I'm going to start new posts to ask about specific questions now as I start tearing into. Thanks for all your help! 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #29 Posted March 31, 2019 4 hours ago, lynnmor said: The idea of lifting the front to grease is a good one, there are 3 fittings involved. At each end of the axle and the one for the pivot in the middle. Often the middle one will not accept grease unless it is lifted. I actually grease the end ones and the mower deck wheels every time I mow, but I have a huge amount to mow. There are no bushings in the axle, so if that gets worn it is a major repair job. Lynnmor, how do you suggest jacking the front without damaging anything? There is a greaser right in the middle of the front axle. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,233 #30 Posted March 31, 2019 i have a small toyota jack that is a great fit on the horse, buy the way is your screw in belt adjustment, at the end of its travel? i ask this because that is a very unstable area for belt support, causing extreme belt bounce. i always fit a 1" shorter belt , keeping it on the adjustment sweet spot for no vibration shake . a regular floor jack with a wooden block will also work, pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,789 #31 Posted April 1, 2019 I take off the mule drive and use a small bottle jack on the round thing in the front mount. Never had a problem with bending although others warned against it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,465 #32 Posted April 1, 2019 I use a very small diameter 1-ton bottle jack that has a screw top adjuster - it will fit up in there to hit the end of the frame with the mule drive popped off temporarily. If you put a floor jack under the center of that mule drive against the two arms where the adjustment screw ends you will bend that cross tube above it - I've seen way too many of those cross tubes bent and have had to make new ones with a very specific sized tubing that isn't exactly cheap for its size. Once the tube is bent, it is very difficult to get the latch to work correctly - that tube has a rod inside of it that allows it to pivot. You have to cut all the old parts off each end, replace the tube and clock those parts onto the new one correctly and weld it. Not a really bad job, but annoying to say the least. On the left-hand side of the tractor (from sitting in the seat) there is also a spot on the end of the frame that will allow you to jack it up by the frame without damaging any parts. The frame will twist slightly as you lift it but will not hurt anything. It can be tough to get a grease gun squarely onto that zerk in the center of the axle, but worth the effort to keep it properly greased. As others have said, check the retainer tab and make sure it is not broken. If it is, that is an easy enough repair and you'll likely have to replace the 3/4" pin as well since they are generally pretty worn. The axle center pin, as well as both steering spindles, are a steel against cast iron pivot point - once worn, none of those parts are easy to fix unless you have the equipment and knowledge to install bushings/bearings. If you want to see what some of that work involves, read this thread - https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/66850-front-axle-upgrades-and-rebuilds/ The Toyota screw jacks are a jewel if you can hit up a salvage yard and find one. They are not all that big, but have great lifting power and can easily be rebuilt. Best styles are from Land Cruisers, but the pickups and higher classed SUV's are nearly as good (4Runner, Sequoia, Prado). Sarge 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #33 Posted April 1, 2019 Ok all I have is a small floor jack but I think my dad has a bottle jack I can use provided he can find it. I'm not really sure what I'm looking for when it comes to the retainer tab behind the axle pivot. Is this the right spot? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 18,060 #34 Posted April 2, 2019 retainer tab 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #35 Posted April 2, 2019 So I take it mine is not broken? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,465 #36 Posted April 2, 2019 It may or may not be broken - almost looks like its broken in the picture from the ring showing around the pin's weld from the factory. Just remove that bolt and see if the tab is solidly attached to the center pin. It is not a bad idea to remove the pin on occasion and check for wear - a good yearly maintenance practice with these heavily stressed parts. There is a lot of weight on that set of front steering components - so to keep things from costing you money later the simple maintenance routines on a yearly basis goes a long way. Sarge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 7,189 #37 Posted April 2, 2019 (edited) Here is what the broken tab looks like. This came off a 312-8 as near as I can guess a 1988 or 1989 model. Edited April 2, 2019 by Lee1977 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #38 Posted April 3, 2019 On 3/31/2019 at 4:50 PM, peter lena said: i have a small toyota jack that is a great fit on the horse, buy the way is your screw in belt adjustment, at the end of its travel? i ask this because that is a very unstable area for belt support, causing extreme belt bounce. i always fit a 1" shorter belt , keeping it on the adjustment sweet spot for no vibration shake . a regular floor jack with a wooden block will also work, pete I can get at least another full turn so I think I should be okay. I tried my dad's ancient 3T bottle jack and I think that will work but I need to wait until I have time to remove the mower deck. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #39 Posted April 7, 2019 On 3/31/2019 at 8:29 AM, peter lena said: CSFT99 , how do the new guys always find the great stuff ? terrific find , doing a baseline service , checking over everything and servicing it will establish what you have, not that is isin,t already like new , let me get my druel cup . you might wipe down those painted surfaces with WD40 , to feed the and enhance the paint. just doing that will make that horse , pop with shine. keep us in the loop , thanks pete Pete, will the WD 40 attract dust and dirt? I always felt it did on my kubota. My farmer friend says to polish it instead, but his tractors have several hundred horse power and are green....🤔 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #40 Posted April 7, 2019 On 4/2/2019 at 9:13 AM, Sarge said: It may or may not be broken - almost looks like its broken in the picture from the ring showing around the pin's weld from the factory. Just remove that bolt and see if the tab is solidly attached to the center pin. It is not a bad idea to remove the pin on occasion and check for wear - a good yearly maintenance practice with these heavily stressed parts. There is a lot of weight on that set of front steering components - so to keep things from costing you money later the simple maintenance routines on a yearly basis goes a long way. Sarge Sarge, I wasn't able to get the pin the whole way out without removing the tie rod bracket. Is it really necessary? Also I unbolted the tab and moved it around, and included a picture below. Can you tell if it is broken? I have no idea since it seems to be functional. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #41 Posted April 7, 2019 Just now, csvt99 said: Sarge, I wasn't able to get the pin the whole way out without removing the tie rod bracket. Is it really necessary? Also I unbolted the tab and moved it around, and included a picture below. Can you tell if it is broken? I have no idea since it seems to be functional. Now that I look closer at Lee1977s picture I think mine is okay, as it didn't fall off 🤔 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #42 Posted April 7, 2019 On 4/2/2019 at 9:18 PM, csvt99 said: I can get at least another full turn so I think I should be okay. I tried my dad's ancient 3T bottle jack and I think that will work but I need to wait until I have time to remove the mower deck. It's a breeze with the mower deck removed. I attached a picture of my jack set up for future reference. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #43 Posted April 7, 2019 On 4/2/2019 at 9:18 PM, csvt99 said: I can get at least another full turn so I think I should be okay. I tried my dad's ancient 3T bottle jack and I think that will work but I need to wait until I have time to remove the mower deck. It's a breeze with the mower deck removed. I attached a picture of my jack set up for future reference. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,634 #44 Posted April 7, 2019 The tab should not move relative to the pin. From what I can see yours is broken.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #45 Posted April 7, 2019 So should it be welded fast to the pin? I did take the top bolt out and that is what allowed it to swing down like that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,634 #46 Posted April 7, 2019 41 minutes ago, csvt99 said: So should it be welded fast to the pin? I did take the top bolt out and that is what allowed it to swing down like that. Yes welded ..no movement allowed between pin and tab. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #47 Posted April 7, 2019 Are there any threads on how to fix the tab? I searched but couldn't find anything. Is it just a matter of removing the pin and welding the tab back on? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #48 Posted April 7, 2019 3 hours ago, csvt99 said: Are there any threads on how to fix the tab? I searched but couldn't find anything. Is it just a matter of removing the pin and welding the tab back on? I'm going to partially answer my own question 😁. I actually found this way easier on Google than on the forum search. It's a pretty good thread that explains pretty much everything. At this point I'm going to check into getting a new one. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #49 Posted April 12, 2019 Here are pictures of the factory pin. I will plan to pre grease and install this weekend. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites