BobbyD218 7 #1 Posted March 25, 2019 (edited) Hello Wheel Horse Nuts, I acquired the above machine recently. It seems like reverse has more speed than forward does. I also noticed that the tranny release knob seems to not be all the way to the bottom, and has some "give". If I push down on the lever, it seems like there's a spring below....I thought I'd get some ideas from the pros here about that Sundstrand, and see if there is something I can do to improve this horse. I did back it up a hill on my property, and it seems to shudder a bit, but it has made it to the top several times after letting it warm up. Is this something that can be remedied, or am I looking at a problem that would need major repair? Thank you for your help...... Edited March 25, 2019 by BobbyD218 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,621 #2 Posted March 25, 2019 that tranny release puts tension on the drive belt when down. Might want to check that belts condition and tension. best to take side cove off and take a look. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BobbyD218 7 #3 Posted March 25, 2019 Great day here in CT...I've been outside playing with my new toy...I have the center plate and the seat pan off and I've been clearing out the myriad amounts of mouse poop, nuts, and other assorted goodies. I may as well take some more tin off and check out the drive belt too. Thanks OILUJ52....I also noticed that the brake won't lock, and now that the pan is off, can see that the stepped portion of the lock is nowhere near where it would catch and hold when I push on the brake peddle. That brake band doesn't look very tight, so I assume the linkage needs some adjustment. I thought perhaps the brake might be causing some drag, but I doubt it..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BobbyD218 7 #4 Posted March 25, 2019 Well, I got that side cover off, and I think you might have put your thumb on the problem. That belt still looks good, but there is quite a bit of slack in it. Now I'm reminded how much better my 308 runs once I changed out that belt with an OEM Wheel Horse belt. The belt I took off wasn't even the right size, and didn't fill the pulley like the new one did. I'll do some research on the correct belt #. Thanks again, 52... If I get away with only having to replace a belt to solve this problem, I'll be a happy camper....I wouldn't be surprised if that is the original belt on the C-121, and 41 years of service was pretty good... By the way, this is my first C series. I'd been hearing about what a great line they are, and couldn't pass up this purchase. Though this machine looks like dung with some tin having been primed but never painted, it's a good candidate for a repaint job if I happen to get some motivation..... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BobbyD218 7 #5 Posted March 27, 2019 I got the new belt on today and I believe the problem has been rectified. I also added more length to the brake by loosening the retaining nut, and I was able to get the latch to hold. But it doesn't hold the tractor still if it decides to creep. I can see the band that tightens on that brake has a loose lining....I also noticed that the indent where neutral would be for the hydro lever is not currently the same place that holds it from moving. Is there an adjustment there? Thanks.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,621 #6 Posted March 27, 2019 (edited) Yes there is an adjustment. The first thing is to warm up the transmission and raise the rear wheels off the ground on jack stands. With the wheel off the ground it will allow you to find the neutral sweet spot on the hydro control. It is kind of synchronizing the two systems. In section 5 of this file are the detailed instructions. I just pasted a portion of the manual, I would go to manual and read the entire section first. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/1559-tractor-1978-b-c-d-series-auto-sm-wiring-810063r1pdf/ If that lining is in good shape it can be glued back on, I haved use JB Weld epoxy in past applying and setting the brake and letting it cure. There is a vendor hear that sells new replacement linings if you need a new one. Edited March 27, 2019 by OILUJ52 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BobbyD218 7 #7 Posted April 2, 2019 Well Joe, Thank you for the information, but the adjustment is on hold for a few days. The engine died on me while idling. I checked for spark and found none. I re-gaped the points and still nothing. So, I ordered a complete coil ignition kit from I Save Tractors in Maine. Norman has some great videos concerning his tractor restorations and fabrications, and sells many Kohler related parts. I'll get back to this once I get my machine back up and running..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BobbyD218 7 #8 Posted April 11, 2019 Well, it seems Murphy's Law has hit home....I got my new ignition kit last week and started taking off the old coil and other bolts... While doing this, I heard something drop inside the engine tin. As it turned out, two of those welded or stamped nuts that hold the bolts to the shroud fell off. So, now I have a hole with no nut behind it in order to fasten in a few spots. I'm thinking my best bet might be to get some size appropriate pop rivets and use them in place of the screw/nut combo. That might be less of a hassle than putting epoxy on the nut to hold it in place. Any thoughts??? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,462 #9 Posted April 12, 2019 It isn't that hard to remove the engine tin and either have those weld nuts re-welded or make new ones. McMaster actually sells those if I remember correctly. Sarge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BobbyD218 7 #10 Posted April 12, 2019 Hey Sarge...Thank you for the source. I already have the main engine cover off. I even ordered another on the bay, but it is slightly different. Mine is a K301AS, and the one I received is a K301AQS. The AQS main attachment holes to the engine line up, but there is some difference where the coil, solenoid, and cable attachments connect. Also, my original cover has a large hole and a crack where the coil is that I didn't see before removing it, and it looks like someone had attempted a prior substandard repair. That is also one of the points where it is difficult to put a fastener, and another still in place has been welded over and ineffectual. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BobbyD218 7 #11 Posted April 12, 2019 (edited) Here is a pic of the C-121. The gentleman I bought this from had the seat reupholstered, and said it cost him $150. It is really nice, and I mentioned that you could get one brand new for less, but he said "Then it wouldn't be a Wheel Horse seat", ha The only thing I don't like about it is that there is no adjustment to move the seat to the rear for a bit more "gut room". I'll have to remedy that.... He did put a new carb on it, and that's a good thing. Considering it came with a 48 inch deck that needs a little minor work, I think this machine was well worth the $240 I paid....Once up and running again, I do hope to get some new paint on before the snow flies.... Edited April 12, 2019 by BobbyD218 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
