HappyHillbilly 86 #1 Posted February 27, 2019 Hi there! I've got a '76 C160 with the K341 motor that's been sitting for 10yrs & I'm trying to get it running again. Long story - short: Carb is leaking from the bowl-to-carb gasket two days after adding gas & trying to get it to crank. At least I know the fuel pump is working. Not knowing if the carb's only problem is a bad bowl gasket and the float & everything else is OK, would you recommend spending the extra money to rebuild this original carb, even if it means replacing float & all, OR - should I just get a new replacement carb? BTW - I've got a faulty coil & a replacement should be here in a few days - so, I've not even had the engine fire up yet. After filing & gapping the points I'm getting a good blue spark from them but a weak, yellowish-orange spark at the plug (new plug & coil wire). Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,694 #2 Posted February 27, 2019 Several of us, myself included, have purchased the cheapie carburetors off of the fleabay and had decent results for the most part. That said, if your original carb can be taken apart, cleaned, and rebuilt. That is definitely the way to go! Check your throttle shaft bore for wear for starters. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 10,824 #3 Posted February 27, 2019 @HappyHillbilly. Easy enough to rebuild if you feel confident enough to do it, or a new carb wouldn't break the bank. Just make sure which one you order. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHNJ701 4,164 #4 Posted February 27, 2019 I rebuild original carbs when I can, lately I will buy old original carbs to rebuild instead of buying the cheap 14 dollar knock carbs, you get what you pay for. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HappyHillbilly 86 #5 Posted February 28, 2019 Thank you, folks! I am an “original parts” type of guy, but I’m just about exhausted & tired of the test this, order that, processes. Haha! My being a perfectionist is now at odds with my current “get ‘er done” thought. How/what do I look for, on the throttle shaft bore wear? Ive never rebuilt a carb but confident that I can. If I can’t, then I’ll order a new one. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 52,421 #6 Posted February 28, 2019 1 hour ago, HappyHillbilly said: After filing & gapping the points I'm getting a good blue spark from them but a weak, yellowish-orange spark at the plug 2 minutes ago, HappyHillbilly said: How/what do I look for, on the throttle shaft bore wear? A new condenser is probably a good idea while you are at it. If you take hold of the throttle shaft it should rotate smoothly but not have any side to side movement. a gap around the shaft would let in too much air and make the engine tend to surge or hunt. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHNJ701 4,164 #7 Posted February 28, 2019 50 minutes ago, HappyHillbilly said: Ive never rebuilt a carb but confident that I can. If I can’t, then I’ll order a new one. a k series rebuild is about as easy as it gets, watch a you tube video 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,694 #8 Posted February 28, 2019 5 minutes ago, jabelman said: k series rebuild is about as easy as it gets, You can handle it. Just be sure it's super clean. Easy fix. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 8,951 #9 Posted February 28, 2019 43 minutes ago, 953 nut said: A new condenser is probably a good idea while you are at it. If you take hold of the throttle shaft it should rotate smoothly but not have any side to side movement. a gap around the shaft would let in too much air and make the engine tend to surge or hunt. If your throttle shaft has any side to side movement (more than a tiny tiny bit) you can put a bushing on the top of the carb to correct it. Kohler makes one part #2515802-5, 7/16" o.d. x 1/4" i.d. x 1/8" thick but I have never found it in stock at Partstree or other online parts places (you might find it on ebay). If you have a hardware store with all those little parts drawers you can get some brass thrust washers 7/16" o.d. x 1/4" i.d. x 1/16" thick Hillman part #58087 and stack 2 of them in that little recess in the top of the carb body. sometimes i find after installing them the throttle shaft fits a little tight, so i take a 1/4" drill bit and ream them out by hand. don't chuck the drill bit in a drill it will be to aggressive. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HappyHillbilly 86 #10 Posted February 28, 2019 Thank you, all, for the info & tips. I did put a new condenser on it. Even bought new points from local NAPA store but they’re evidently for a different Kohler engine. Had me stumped for a bit when I installed them in the “closed” position of the motor and they were gapped @ .022”. Turns out that the distance from the back of the points’ mounting bracket - to the plastic part the push rod goes against is .030” closer than original points. Got a new set that’s supposed to be the right ones on the way. Y’all have a good one! HH (Mike) 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tunahead72 2,348 #11 Posted February 28, 2019 Hey Mike, and welcome! This might help you, it's kind of my go-to reference every time I dig into one of these old Kohler carbs: http://www.mgonitzke.net/cubcadet/tools/carb_rebuild.pdf 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HappyHillbilly 86 #12 Posted February 28, 2019 14 hours ago, tunahead72 said: Hey Mike, and welcome! This might help you, it's kind of my go-to reference every time I dig into one of these old Kohler carbs: http://www.mgonitzke.net/cubcadet/tools/carb_rebuild.pdf Thank you! I’ve got the Kohler service manual but this seems to have some better details. Rebuild parts & a new carb have been ordered. The throttle body has a fair amount of slop. It will wiggle approximately .050” at base of carb. Might be a challenge to find a bushing here in my small town but I think I can find one that’ll work. Thanks, folks! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,318 #13 Posted February 28, 2019 23 minutes ago, HappyHillbilly said: Thank you! I’ve got the Kohler service manual but this seems to have some better details. Rebuild parts & a new carb have been ordered. The throttle body has a fair amount of slop. It will wiggle approximately .050” at base of carb. Might be a challenge to find a bushing here in my small town but I think I can find one that’ll work. Thanks, folks! Try Tractor Supply some times they don't keep there stock in the drawers filled very well. They might have what you need. I haven't bought any 1/4" I D ones, but I have bought a few 1/2"I D ones when I can find any. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bottjernat1 2,189 #14 Posted February 28, 2019 rebuild very easy to do. but i have had no issues yet with buying the cheap carbs of the internet. just watch the one you buy! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bottjernat1 2,189 #15 Posted February 28, 2019 Here is a pretty good video on how to rebuild the carb. The only thing i do different this guy doesnt do in the video is i take some real fine wire my dad had a bunch of it. The wire is like the stuff you would tag parts on a shelf. I would take that kinda wire and run it threw the tiny holes in the high and low jets. There are a couple of tiny holes in each jet alot of time these are blocked and junked up. just pass the wire threw spray a little carb cleaner and put her back together! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,206 #16 Posted February 28, 2019 3 hours ago, HappyHillbilly said: Thank you! I’ve got the Kohler service manual but this seems to have some better details. Rebuild parts & a new carb have been ordered. The throttle body has a fair amount of slop. It will wiggle approximately .050” at base of carb. Might be a challenge to find a bushing here in my small town but I think I can find one that’ll work. Thanks, folks! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HappyHillbilly 86 #17 Posted March 2, 2019 (edited) Thanks, folks, for the thrust washer/bearing info, tips & video link. i found the Hillman washers in another nearby town’s Ace Hardware & waiting on the float & rebuild kit. Meantime - the replacement carb I ordered came in yesterday & it’s an exact physical match - even the correct choke lever orientation. For $21.99 off Amazon, with free 1-day shipping (Prime membership), tickled pink, so far.... Question - Do I need to wrap or coat the “L” shaped fuel connector’s threads with anything to ensure no leakage? Thanks! HH Edited March 2, 2019 by HappyHillbilly Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 52,421 #18 Posted March 2, 2019 8 minutes ago, HappyHillbilly said: Do I need to wrap or coat the “L” shaped fuel connector’s threads with anything to ensure no leakage? They are a pipe thread and will tighten well enough that no pipe dope is needed. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HappyHillbilly 86 #19 Posted March 2, 2019 50 minutes ago, 953 nut said: They are a pipe thread and will tighten well enough that no pipe dope is needed. I had that feeling but wanted to make sure. Thank you!!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HappyHillbilly 86 #20 Posted March 4, 2019 (edited) Sorry! I posted to the wrong thread somehow.... Edited March 4, 2019 by HappyHillbilly Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
