Jake Collie 3 #1 Posted January 30, 2019 I read in the forums how it is a good idea to take the charge wire out of the 9 pin plug. Most people ran a wire from the B+ on the regulator down to the starter solenoid where the battery cable bolts on. Can't I just run a short wire (with 30 amp fuse) from the B+ to the positive post on the battery to accomplish the same thing? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,559 #2 Posted January 30, 2019 The wire from the "B+" on the regulator needs to be routed to the "R" terminal on your ignition switch. If you run it to the battery it will slowly drain the battery while sitting. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Collie 3 #3 Posted January 30, 2019 The original wiring didn't go through the key switch. It went from the B+ through the 9 pin connector, through the 30 amp fuse, back through the 9 pin connector, and then to the stud on the starter where the battery cable attaches. I am just trying to eliminate the wires going through the 9 pin plug. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,614 #4 Posted January 30, 2019 It sounds like you want to eliminate the 9 pin B+ regulator connection // to yellow 30 amp wire? You could run that wire straight to the starter solenoid, but would have to leave the B+ starter solenoid wire // red to 25 amp fuse, in tact to keep the key switch powered. If you want to eliminate that yellow wire connection through the 9 pin......just splice B+ regulator to yellow at the 9 pin, it will eliminate one connection and keep the key switch powered by the red wire. Both of those connections are high current potential for burning and may just save you some grief later. Looks like it can be done. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 4,936 #5 Posted January 30, 2019 I connect a wire with a 30A inline fuse to the solenoid battery cable connection but going through a 30A fuse then directly to the battery would be the same thing. All that current through the 9 pin on 2 different pins is mostly from the charge cct. Cleat Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Collie 3 #6 Posted January 31, 2019 Thank you all. I'm going to try it and see how it works. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericj 1,576 #7 Posted February 4, 2019 I have a 90 520-8 that after changing the stator still would charge the battery, Had no A/C current coming from the stator. I ran a separate wire from the RR using a piggy back connector through a 30 amp fuse to the battery. I had traced the problem back to the fuse block on the tractor. had continuity from RR through the 9 pin, but nothing at the bottom of the fuse block. Couldn't get the fuse block out to figure out the problem, so I did a bush fix. They where calling for snow and I wanted to use the tractor to plow with. Hopefully tear into it later and fix it right. For my fuse holder I just used 2 insulated female stay-con connectors and then puts some electrical tape on them. I then used a jumper wire with alligator clips on it to hook to the batter, quick disconnect lol. It charges the battery as should now. good luck eric j Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
