Kody Bob 17 #26 Posted January 31, 2019 (edited) So first thing tonight I shot a little starter fluid into the carb and hit the ignition and she ate it up. Good feeling to know there is spark. After that I took the carb off and dissasymbled in preparation for the rebuild kit which is supposed to show up tomorrow. The carb looked extremely clean. Will still do the rebuild kit just to be sure. Then removed the seat and fender pan in order to gain access to the tank and fuel line. Removed tank and fuel lines and cleaned the tank. Parts should be here tomorrow so I can reassymble everything and hopefully give her a test drive. Funny story, by chance I asked the lady that I purchased the tractor from if she had any other decks for the machine (it was her father's who passed away about a year ago). She ended up having a 36" rear discharge at the house to and said it was going to go with the house so I could have it. Didn't feel right so I gave her a little bit for it but now I've got 2 36" mower decks... One SD and on RD. You never know until you ask! Hope yall have a great night, I know I sure did. Edited January 31, 2019 by Kody Bob 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,416 #27 Posted January 31, 2019 I sat on the sofa deciding whether I should paint another room and decided to remain seated. You had a good night! You might find after replacing the tank and lines that it won't start. Use the fluid to get the fuel in the lines. If you have to squirt forever to keep it running, it's pump time! Happened to me a month ago on the '76 C120. The Chinese cheapies are just fine. Oh, don't over-tighten the bottom bolts on that tank. Don't ask me how I know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kody Bob 17 #28 Posted January 31, 2019 Quick question. I noticed the gasket between the carb and the block as well as the gasket between the carb and air filter. These do not appear to be supplied with the rebuild kit however I will need these to reinstall correct? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,416 #29 Posted January 31, 2019 Thoughts will differ on the air cleaner to carb. That's to keep dirt out so that only filtered air enters. For me, important. The carb to engine though is critical. I may get flamed in saying this but, if you don't have gasket paper, you can use cereal box cardboard. For either, use the old fashioned method of lightly coating the carb gasket surface with oil and pressing it to the gasket. Cut to shape. I use a hole punch to get the holes just right. To me, that is perfectly sufficient. Others, again, may differ. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kody Bob 17 #30 Posted January 31, 2019 Any idea on a part number for those gaskets? Was thinking about popping into our local small engine shop to see if they might have them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,416 #31 Posted January 31, 2019 Nothing in the Kohler manual. I can tell you that an OEM part is costly. I no longer use my local Ace that has almost anything for me - I use parts houses. I gave up on Ace when charged $25 for a head gasket and $28 for a capacitor. Sure, the best of quality and I want to help my local store but, Jeeeeeez! Maybe try the parts sites like Jacks or partstree or old eBay for a part number. Just go ahead and cut a gasket from gasket material - cheap and bought by the roll. There's no issue with excessive heat on this gasket so a Rice Krispies box is a good source (ouch - don't flame me). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kody Bob 17 #32 Posted January 31, 2019 2 minutes ago, Tuneup said: Nothing in the Kohler manual. I can tell you that an OEM part is costly. I no longer use my local Ace that has almost anything for me - I use parts houses. I gave up on Ace when charged $25 for a head gasket and $28 for a capacitor. Sure, the best of quality and I want to help my local store but, Jeeeeeez! Maybe try the parts sites like Jacks or partstree or old eBay for a part number. Just go ahead and cut a gasket from gasket material - cheap and bought by the roll. There's no issue with excessive heat on this gasket so a Rice Krispies box is a good source (ouch - don't flame me). Any gasket sealant or is this a dry gasket? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,416 #33 Posted January 31, 2019 That's a good question. I would rely on the compression of a new gasket for a good seal and wouldn't put any kind of a sealant near a carburetor. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,416 #34 Posted January 31, 2019 You know, in the teen days (late 70s for me), we didn't have the cash for a new gasket but a tube of Permatex #2 was cheap and sealed plenty! Today, it's silicone and most of that to me is garbage and overused. I have done some Ford work that per OEM instructions would only accept the grey silicone which is about the best. Ah, the 70s...minibikes, a Simplicity 707 and car fenders you sat on to change plugs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kody Bob 17 #35 Posted January 31, 2019 Checked with Land and Coates (local small engine shop) after finding the part numbers on Jacks - They did not have them available so I am planning to stop by Autozone and pick up some gasket material and a scraper to remove the old gaskets. Crisis averted, was nervous I would be waiting on another part to get everything put back together. Should have it done tonight.... Is it 4:30 yet? I'm at work but cant stop thinking about putting this thing back together... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,924 #36 Posted January 31, 2019 Its up to you but the time you are going to spend looking for the gasket you can make one from a variety of materials readily around you. I have also used just gasket sealant on one where the surface on engine was slightly warped and would not seal with a gasket. As for getting fuel in line at first after cleaning tank, let the fuel run through the entire line into a container and as it is flowing clamp line with a needle nose vise grip about 1 inch under end and insert it into pump connector, releasing clamp after. Make sure tank is full to the top when doing it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 47,345 #37 Posted January 31, 2019 I get my gaskets here http://www.psep.biz/store/kohler_gaskets.htm and many other Kohler parts They offer both OEM and aftermarket and are usually reasonable. In case I haven't done so Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kody Bob 17 #38 Posted February 1, 2019 So I rebuilt the carb and installed new fuel lines and filter. Tried to fire her up and she just cranked. Sprayed a little starting fluid into the carb. Same thing, no cough like it did last night or anything. Was starting to assume the worst and then remembered that damn little safety button under the seat. (Still had the seat and fender pan off in case I had any issues). Put the seat and fender pan back on and she fired right up. Couldn't be more stoked. Engine runs great, forward and reverse and hydros all work as they should. Not that I'll get rid of it anytime soon but what would you all value this machine at? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,416 #39 Posted February 1, 2019 Wow! a black hood that has good wiring - who knew? My entire harness was scrap. You've got a good machine there and you might want to test the strength of that auto trans next. As to value, always an unknown. Depends on so many things. I saw a C120 with auto - not running and no attachments - in the ads weeks ago for $250. It was not clean like yours. That might be a data point starting place for you. Oh, it didn't sell - though I tried. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,678 #40 Posted February 1, 2019 13 hours ago, Kody Bob said: Was starting to assume the worst and then remembered that damn little safety button under the seat. (Still had the seat and fender pan off in case I had any issues). Put the seat and fender pan back on and she fired right up. Couldn't be more stoked. Not knowing your specific model this may help. When the pto is OFF one half of the pto switch powers the ignition. Perhaps the pto was ON when you tried to start? With age and wear you sometimes have to play with the pto lever around the off position to get switch contact. When the pto is ON the seat switch powers the ignition. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LengerichKA88 1,881 #41 Posted February 9, 2019 On 1/31/2019 at 7:58 AM, Tuneup said: Thoughts will differ on the air cleaner to carb. That's to keep dirt out so that only filtered air enters. For me, important. The carb to engine though is critical. I may get flamed in saying this but, if you don't have gasket paper, you can use cereal box cardboard. For either, use the old fashioned method of lightly coating the carb gasket surface with oil and pressing it to the gasket. Cut to shape. I use a hole punch to get the holes just right. To me, that is perfectly sufficient. Others, again, may differ. That’s a good piece of info to have in the “In a pinch” folder. I was going to second the Graphite lube for the starter but that's already been sorted. Glad you’ve gotten it going, and welcome to Red Square! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
