Jump to content
hucksterfool

d180 wont move

Recommended Posts

hucksterfool

Thirty is all I have at idle reguarless  of rpm

C0FBEA37-36C8-4A8B-B4AA-C78C1F55068B.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

That is not good...  Even at full throttle only 30?  I hope you can get the charge relief out with out having to pull the pump...That is a major project in itself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
hucksterfool

Yea. That’s it. I’ll pull the relief valance and check. I don’t use any implements  can I use its spring if it is broke?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
hucksterfool

Looks compressed?

image.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

Did eh valve itself come out that spring doesn't look long enough to me maybe some is still inside.  Give a few minutes I have to find one to measure it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
hucksterfool

Yea that’s all of it. 

image.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

One of the joys of working on old stuff is that you never know who was in there before and if they did it right.That spring looks to me like an implement relief spring.  To be sure the one you pulled came from the left side of the pump (as you sit on the tractor)  If you can pull the implement relief valve on the right side of the pump directly op posit the one you just pulled.

 

Top spring is what should have been in there  Now over the years some changed from a ball valve to a Cone type (bottom)  Bottom is the implement spring.

 

Are there any small discs inside your cone (bottom of pic.

IMG_0292.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
hucksterfool

So the thicker spring is the implement one and the longer is the relief. I tried swapping g springs side to side and now have 60 at idle but drops up one rpms

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
hucksterfool

Also originally when I tried the capped off implement control I got 150 psi on gauge

 

seems to be something with the relief valve side. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi
7 minutes ago, hucksterfool said:

So the thicker spring is the implement one and the longer is the relief. I tried swapping g springs side to side and now have 60 at idle but drops up one rpms

 

 

The pressure goes down as you speed up the engine???  That is counter intuitive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
hucksterfool

Yep pressure drops when you give it gas

 

like the relief valve is activating when more pressure is built. 

 

Super per frustrating as I did nothing. Was working fine  now won’t move. Just growls like it wants to.   Maybe I’ll buy a pump. Just hate throwing parts at it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

I certainly understand your frustration. Is you charge pump spring (the thinner one) 1" long and did it have a ball or a cone?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
hucksterfool

Yea thinner one 1 inch and thick 3/4  I’ll check the valve to see if ball or cone

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
hucksterfool

It’s a ball

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

I am stumped at the moment.  I have to wonder why somebody reversed the  springs and valve.  I would have thought that would have created operational problems all along.  The sudden onset and pressure drop at higher RPM I can't explain at the moment.

If you put it back together correctly light spring and ball on the left, heavy one and cone on the right do the pressure test again holding the mid mount lift control all the way up and see what the pressure spikes to...  They used shims to get better implemetn lift pressure.  you don't seem to have any

Edited by pfrederi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
hucksterfool

Did that 30psi

 

if I do the same to the implements 150psi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

Sorry I am out of ideas the moment:(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
hucksterfool

Thanks for everyone’s idea and help. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
2 hours ago, hucksterfool said:

Yep pressure drops when you give it gas

 

like the relief valve is activating when more pressure is built. 

 

Super per frustrating as I did nothing. Was working fine  now won’t move. Just growls like it wants to.   Maybe I’ll buy a pump. Just hate throwing parts at it. 

Just reading this over, are you absolutely sure the coupling from the engine to the pump isn't slipping? Can you determine the source of the growling sound? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
daveoman1966

Just to clarify the components of these two valves in the pump end cap...

The growling noise...  I wonder if the spring in the Acceleration valve(s) of the hyd motor is broken, causing the valves to 'flutter'...just a thought.  The hyd motor is bolted to the left side of trans and the Acceleration valves MAY be accessible without a lot of tear-down.  Here is a pic or two of those valves...in the motor.  

1 (276).JPG

1 (277).JPG

1 (278).JPG

1 (291).JPG

1 (5).JPG

1 (7).JPG

1 (8).JPG

1 (9).JPG

1 (10).JPG

1 (12).JPG

  • Confused 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

This is the motion control linkage of an 18 Automatic.  Is the cast iron part cracked where it mounts to the shaft...That would cause the pump to not fully engage.  

1 (214).JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
13 minutes ago, daveoman1966 said:

I wonder if the spring in the Acceleration valve(s) of the hyd motor is broken, causing the valves to 'flutter'...just a thought.

Good thought,    :confusion-confused:   but both would have to have broken at the same time. Not likely.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
hucksterfool

Yea mine is not cracked. It engages fully forward and reverse. Here is a pick of acceleration valve front. The rear one  I would have to remove rear pump 

063C351D-13A6-4A01-A002-51A70EF5B7B3.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...