1949 Farmall cub.

[Daron1965 644]

Hello good folks of RedSquare,  I'm going to go look at a 49 Farmall cub this weekend.  Owner says it runs well,  good paint, and tires.  Has snow plow. What should I look for when I'm there? Any known issues? He is asking $900 or best offer. 

Any advice would be very helpful. 

 

Thank you. 

[Achto 26,500]

There are not any known down falls on these little tractors that I know of. My family owns two Cubs & really have had no issues with them over the many years that we have owned them. Only thing I can suggest is to check the usual's, coolant level / leaks, oil level / color / leaks, clutch / does it slip, check the hydraulics for motion / leaks, does it run smooth / no smoking, etc.

[ClassicTractorProfessor 5,255]

$900 for a 49 Cub that runs well with good paint AND tires...only thing I would be looking for when I got there was a way to make my quick getaway after stealing a tractor

 

I recently worked out a deal to purchase this 51 for $1100, still trying to come up with the money but its not going anywhere. It will run but shows no oil pressure, not sure whats wrong with it, and I still feel like I worked a good deal on it, so $900 for a good running unit seems like a steal to me

[Achto 26,500]

19 minutes ago, Professor1990 said:

. It will run but shows no oil pressure, not sure whats wrong with it

 

This can sometimes be as simple as the pressure gauge inlet being plugged or a bad gauge. I've also had this issue with our Allis G after sitting for the winter, the cure on that one is to actually remove the gauge and squirt a little oil down the tube for the gauge. After doing this I screw the gauge back on and it will read pressure again.

[6wheeler 585]

I agree. For the money? I would grab it. Then I would find implements for it. If it however, has implements? Even better. I just looked at 2 of them on c.l. In my neck of the woods? They go for $3500.00 and up. Garden farmers love em'. Bryce, I would check the gauge and lines. Just a cleaning will more than likely alleviate the problem.  Good luck fellas...

[oldredrider 2,547]

Also, check the brakes; you might need them!

[ClassicTractorProfessor 5,255]

2 hours ago, oldredrider said:

Also, check the brakes; you might need them!

yes, and check them BEFORE pulling it on the trailer, when I bought my Ford 2n, I just almost drove it right over the front of the trailer and into the tailgate of the pickup. That one would have taken some explaining to the boss, as the company I worked for at that time had a strict policy of no personal use of company vehicles. But I just couldn't see driving the 45 miles home to get my pickup when the tractor was a mile from the shop and on my way home LOL

[bc.gold 3,399]

Interesting tractor, no water pump cooling is achieved via thermosiphon. if the engine has a magneto you can easily directly replace it with a distributor the only known issue you may find stress cracks at the front of the engine casting where it's bolted to the main tractor casting.

 

As you can see from the image below there is no sub frame and this has been know to put undue stress onto the engine. Fresh paint hides plenty of sins, be sure to check this area closely for stress cracks.

 

 

 

Edited December 26, 2018 by bcgold

[Daron1965 644]

Thank you all very much.  If it's half as good as the owner says,  it will be coming home with me this weekend.  Wife thinks it's another wheelhorse,  because when she asked me what it was,  I said,  "just another red tractor". I don't think I mislead her too much.   

[bc.gold 3,399]

If you ever find yourself in need of an engine the same was used on the baler.

 

Edited December 26, 2018 by bcgold

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

I have two Farmall Cubs, a '47 (first year of the Cub), and a '50.  Things to look for are things like a cracked steering bolster.  Check for cracks on the engine mount areas, torque tube, spindles, etc.  Check to see if there are leaks around the front crank seal, final drives, transmission, etc.  Check for play in the steering.  Check the turning brakes and brakes in general.  Tires are expensive, especially the rear tires, so check the condition of those.  Does it have the touch control hydraulics, which is nice if you plan to use the tractor? Or is it manual lift?  Any implements or attachments, which can be expensive to buy?  Does it still have the original 6V system or has it been converted to 12V?  If converted, was it done properly.  If not, be sure the negative cable is to the positive terminal.

 

Some of these things will require the tractor to be split apart, which you will need the proper tools and equipment when splitting, and also the proper tools to remove the crank pulley.  You can cause damage to the pulley and engine if you don't have the proper tools for this, and if you don't have the know how and the proper tools for supporting the tractor if needs to be split, can be dangerous.

 

These are great tractors, but for a 70 year tractor, things will wear out, and other things and repairs may not have been done properly and with the right replacement parts.  For instance, on my '50, I change the oil and the oil filter, and the previous owner had substituted the wrong filter and had to jerry rigged something to take of the space inside the filter housing.  Also, wiring was a mess and the 6V system was backwards, the tractors if still with the original 6V system are positive to ground.

 

Here is a video (not mine) of some things to look for.  It's a bit long, around 20 or so minutes, but it's worth a watch.

 

 

Also, register and visit www.farmallcub.com.  If you register there and have two posts, you can download manuals they have there.

 

Yesterday, since it was so nice out, I cleaned out the garage and took some pictures of my Cubs.

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

Here are some pictures of my '50 with the front end off.  Noticed the trailer jack bolted to the implement mounting area on the tractor.  The jack is resting on the deck with blocks underneath the deck where the jack mount is.  This was supporting the tractor since removed the front end to get to the crank seal.  I wish I had a picture of the tool we used to remove the crank pulley - it also involved a jack.

 

 

[Daron1965 644]

Well,   A few hours after the owner told me that he would hold it until Saturday morning,  he texted me that it was sold. I was a little angry at first,  but I calmed down and realized it was just not meant to be mine.   So I will continue to search. 

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

8 hours ago, Daron1965 said:

Well,   A few hours after the owner told me that he would hold it until Saturday morning,  he texted me that it was sold. I was a little angry at first,  but I calmed down and realized it was just not meant to be mine.   So I will continue to search. 

Sorry to hear this.  Judging from the pictures I've seen it was well worth the asking price.  At least he texted you first, before the day you were going to get it.  It doesn't make up entirely for him breaking his word about holding it, but at least he did let you know beforehand it's sold.

[Daron1965 644]

I appreciate all the help.  It is one of the tractors at the top of my "want" list.  I will continue to look around.   

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

I'm not too sure how far you will go, but there is one listed on the Farmall Cub site for $750, a late '49.  He did mentioned he might go as low as $700.  It's in the Jacksonville, NC area, so it would be a drive for you.