Jump to content
WildmanC120

Predator 22HP Engine Swap. Who has done one???

Recommended Posts

USHorse

Sorry....for the PTO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WildmanC120
42 minutes ago, USHorse said:

Sorry....for the PTO

So I ran power from battery to inline fuze holder, to switch then switch to PTO.  PTO grounded to engine. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
mpoore

I know this is an old topic, but  I am hoping someone can clarify some things for me. I am attempting to replace a KT19 Series I in a C-195. The 22hp Predator seems like a good option given there are not a lot of options.The documentation is not as detailed as I would like, but I see no indication of ball bearings in the version of the engine being sold today. Some others posted it might have ball bearings. That could be an earlier version. They do not list the alternator output, so I cannot confirm that it is sufficient for an electric pto, but it would seem that it is since that's what others have done. I do see an internal thrust washer in the diagram. Has anyone tried to replace that with a torrington bearing? I wonder if there is enough room because that might be a way to use the manual clutch. Lastly, I am guessing that Predator engines share parts with a brand name engine. I see it advertised to replace a Honda GX630 or a Vanguard. I doubt it is a Vanguard clone because those have ball bearings.I would like to know I can get parts from other sources than HF. Being stuck ordering parts from HF is enough to hold out a little longer for a deal on something better supported. I have a K532 that I would love cram in there if I could find a governor for it. Ebay sellers are asking $200 for the governor. The cost of a governor and a rebuild kit is getting to the point that a new Predator is tempting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

Electric PTOs draw less than 4 amps

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
mpoore

If its only 4 amp, then it should not be a problem. Another post made me think it was around 10 amps, which seemed like a potential problem depending on alternator output.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi
18 hours ago, mpoore said:

If its only 4 amp, then it should not be a problem. Another post made me think it was around 10 amps, which seemed like a potential problem depending on alternator output.

Electro 12s had Electric PTOS lights and a lighter on a 10 amp charging system.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
mpoore

I bought a Predator 670 for my C-195. The plan was to use an electric pto clutch, which will be delivered tomorrow. The best fit I could find for the 1" shaft along with a comparable sheave diameter draws 6.5 amps. I thought I might still be okay until I learned that the charging system on a 670 is 3 amps. I should have known the charging system sucked or they would publish the output. Instead, it is not listed anywhere. I guess I am now stuck trying to install a charging upgrade. One issue is parts interchange. It looks a lot like a Honda GX670, but the only way to tell what interchanges is probably testing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
mpoore

I have another update. It turns out the Predator engine probably puts out more than 3 amps. There are 3 stator coils. The Honda 20 amp configuration uses 3 coils. A 3 amp system should be one coil. However, the rectifier/regulator is at best 10 amps. I ordered a 20 amp regulator and stator. I am hoping it will bolt on and get me a 20 amp system. There is a 26 amp conversion kit for sale for $250 that includes a new flywheel with the regulator and stator. 20 amps should be more than enough for me so long as the Honda parts fit.

 

The only other known issue is hood clearance with the exhaust along with the exhaust outlet pointing back toward the driver. If you want to be able to close the hood and not cut the hood, some sort of modification to the exhaust is required,

 

The Predator engine is close in footprint to a Kohler. The center line of the PTO is about 1/2" lower than the Kohler making a 1/2" mounting plate a perfect solution to both mount the engine and align the PTO. I have read, but cannot confirm that it is important that an aluminum block engine be mounted on a plate rather than using risers. The Kohler bolt holes in the frame are in the wrong position, of course. The mounting plate will only require some simple welds. It also adds enough weight to the replacement engine that it is very close to the weight of the KT-19, which keeps the weight balance close to original.

 

The purpose of these updates is to help someone trying to do a similar conversion and what issues need to be overcome. Hopefully, someone finds it useful. I hope to follow up once things a further along.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...