414-8 Still Stubborn!!!

[barns1 57]

Still trying to get the 1986 Maroon Stripe 414-8 started. It has the 14hp Kohler engine. Like I said it was running fine when I shut it down last fall after cutting grass, went back out a couple of days later and would not start. It's getting fuel to the cylinder because the plug is wet after cranking. But it is not getting any spark to the plug. I'm more familiar with the mid 70's Horses. The ignition switch felt funky so I changed it, nothing. I've changed the plug, condensor and coil, nothing. Battery is fully charged. I've changed the fuses. Does this year tractor have points? If so would the points cause this? Thanks for all your knowledge and advise, now and in the past!!!

[d180man 5]

Hi does it have fire? sorry cant read yes i wouldn't think there would be p & c on it! if you can get your # i can look it up for you ! but there sold be a 2" x 1" cover that they are under on the side of the engine!

[oldandred 15]

points looking at the front of the tractor with thw hood up look on the left side next to the cam cover should have two small screws and a wire going into it and the are set at .019 pon the higest part of the cam so take the plug out and turn engine over untill the points are as open as the can get or the piston on top dead center just run a nail file though them clean them i use carb cleaner and let it dry with plug out use key and turn engine over you shoild see a spark replace plug and try starting

[d180man 5]

like he said!! :thumbs:

[MaineDad 85]

It should have points. Take the old ones to a NAPA and get a new set for $20. make sure the gap is .19 or .20 just before TDC.

[Duff 206]

Guys, any chance he's got one of the [many!] safety switches that's gone sour?

Duff :whistle:

[htopjimmy26 3]

If it has a magnum it's magneto ingition, if it a k321 then it's a points and condenser setup. My 416-8 has consumed both clutch and pto saftey switches so try checking/ bypassing them to see if will run, good luck :whistle:

[buckrancher 2,675]

If it has a magnum it's magneto ingition, if it a k321 then it's a points and condenser setup. My 416-8 has consumed both clutch and pto saftey switches so try checking/ bypassing them to see if will run, good luck

IT's a very good chance it is the clutch saftey switch

try unpluging the two wire's and hook a jumper between them

then crank the engine over and see if you get spark

:whistle:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,128]

The switch on the clutch has nothing to do with spark - it's in the starter solenoid trigger circuit along with one of the micro-switches on the PTO lever.

The seat switch and the other micro-switch on the PTO lever are in the ignition circuit so it might be one of those. (or both)

"barns1" - see if there is 12VDC at the " + " terminal on the ignition coil with the switch in the run position. If not, see if there is power at the "I" terminal on the ignition switch.

If you have power at the switch but not at the coil, use this schematic to follow the ignition power wire and locate the problem:

If you do have power at the coil, clean and gap the points and you should have spark.

[barns1 57]

Thank you guys for all the suggestions. I'll try them as soon as I can. You all always come thru.

[buckrancher 2,675]

sorry duh I was thinking seat switch not clutch switch but wrote clutch switch

must have been a senior moment

:whistle:

[barns1 57]

Just wanted to take a minute to say thanks for all of the suggestions offered to get my 414-8 running again. It was the points. The old ones were so burned and pitted that I'm surprized it ran previously. Never messed with points on a small engine before, but thanks to all your help it was a breese. I got the grass cut just before I went in for gallbladder and hernia surgery. Don't think I'll be riding the horses for a little while, just a little sore! But again, thanks to a great group of Horse owners!!! :omg:

[scifi4all 6]

barns1,

Iwould suggest that you get a manual for your engine, if you don't already have one. You can download, and save them to your computer for free, from Kohlers website. Just follow the links below, depending on your engine. Then you can print out any part of the manual you need and not worry about messing up the manaul in the garage. It really helped me. First car I had was from 1980. Never had anything older and never had anyone show me how to work on any older engines of any kind. I recently changed out the points on my '73 12HP Kohler after 10 years, because I just didn't know any better. It did explain why it would'nt run as well as it used to. Good Luck.

http://www.kohlerengines.com/manuals/landing.htm

http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog...eries=K-Series#

http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog...m?series=Magnum

[MaineDad 85]

Gary,

Glad to hear you got it running again. Just make sure the gap on the points is set correctly.

I hope you have a speedy recovery!

Take care,

[barns1 57]

I'm pretty sure I got the gap right, runs good under mower deck load and going up a pretty good hill with deck running. What if the gap is off a little?

[kpinnc 10,767]

What if the gap is off a little?

It can arc and destroy the points over time. Basically take you back where you started.

Kevin

[linen beige 14]

Severely pitted points are a sign of a bad condensor. A worn down rubbing block that has altered the gap will also cause this, as will too much voltage coming from the coil. Always change the condensor when you change the points.

A nail file is too abrasive for dressing points. I know a lot of guys use them, but they leave a rough surface that repits quickly unless further polishing is done with a finer abrasive. It is also way too easy to round off the points face with a file that coarse. Points should be perfectly flat with a shiny surface. The contacts should also mate perfectly flat to one another. They can't mate flat when the contacts have been rounded over. True points files are pretty smooth looking and can still be found through the old car hobby. VERY fine (1200 grit or finer) wet or dry sandpaper glued to thin sheet metal stock is a decent substitute.

[barns1 57]

Thanks for the unending advise. You guys never let me down!

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

I'm pretty sure I got the gap right, runs good under mower deck load and going up a pretty good hill with deck running. What if the gap is off a little?

The point gap determines the timing If they open late (retarded timing) eg two small a gap you will have a loss of power.

If the open too soon (advanced timing) e.g. too big a gap you can cause over heating.

:omg: