ol~horses 4 #1 Posted September 17, 2018 just got this B-80 (k181s) and have a problem: engine runs ok BUT stuff for choke were all in a plastic bag. anyone have a pic of a working unit that shows throttle and clutch cables. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,809 #2 Posted September 17, 2018 Ol Fellas will be along to welcome you. I'm sure one of them has a pic or 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,200 #4 Posted September 17, 2018 To I have a 1974 b80 here. I can snap a couple pics for you and if you need more. Let me know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,476 #5 Posted September 17, 2018 I can be of absolutely no help other than saying : Welcome to the forum 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,200 #6 Posted September 17, 2018 Here's some pics of my Patriot horse. This shows the choke cable as it goes into the carburetor and also how it's mounted on the side of the engine. This shot shows where it is held onto the side of the tractor. Here you can see where the cable comes up through the fuel tank bracket and attaches to the back of the lever. This pic shows the end of the throttle cable and the bracket that holds it and where it goes into the wheel that is attached to the engine governor. Let me know if there's something else you'd like to see or a different angle... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ol~horses 4 #8 Posted September 18, 2018 thanks for all the replies!....if you positioned yourself so that the pto lever was in front of you, you' see the of the tractor... linkage ,primairly 2 disks actuated by the gov. linkage in front the disks pivot on one another..... they are no longer made...think I can fix them, but don't know how the throttle cable was routed PS i gotta get a camera! appreciate the help, folks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,200 #9 Posted September 18, 2018 if you can't fix the ones you have, get ahold of A - Z tractor and he may have something he could sell you for a few bucks off of a bad engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,147 #10 Posted September 18, 2018 33 minutes ago, ol~horses said: thanks for all the replies!....if you positioned yourself so that the pto lever was in front of you, you' see the of the tractor... linkage ,primairly 2 disks actuated by the gov. linkage in front the disks pivot on one another..... they are no longer made...think I can fix them, but don't know how the throttle cable was routed PS i gotta get a camera! appreciate the help, folks I am not sure what disks you are referring to. See them in this picture??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ol~horses 4 #11 Posted September 19, 2018 sorry about causing confusion...i did find a post that said: re k181 star percent @ !!Governor (had to use words because symbols are not printing as i type......(best i can do, only have one computer.)......that is the unit i am talking about........the brass nut is worn out so it binds everything up......I am reshaping the back of the nut with a small hand held grinder at present...hope this is discernable! Thanks for your patience 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,147 #12 Posted September 19, 2018 Check with a to Z tractor or palce a want add here. Part number is 230476 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ol~horses 4 #13 Posted September 19, 2018 thanks for the link....not sure what the other side of brass nut/stud/disks-to-the units base assy will work, cannot tell at this point.....was kinda hoping I could resolve the problems myself....BUT (shrug) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ol~horses 4 #14 Posted September 20, 2018 I think that if I could see the backside of the disks etc. to see which goes over what i'd be on my way (or closer anyway)....remaking the interior end of the brass nut unit corrected one problem already!.............thanks again to all who have been making suggestions 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,200 #15 Posted September 20, 2018 2 hours ago, ol~horses said: I think that if I could see the backside of the disks etc. to see which goes over what i'd be on my way (or closer anyway)....remaking the interior end of the brass nut unit corrected one problem already!.............thanks again to all who have been making suggestions Are you talking about the disk that the end of the throttle cable goes into? I can try to get you another pic or two from different angles later. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,231 #16 Posted September 20, 2018 Here is what the inside parts of the governor look like. There are some real good pictures in this thread of the governor. Check this out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ol~horses 4 #17 Posted September 20, 2018 the disk and brass piece are mounted on the chasis and are part of the governor ...the backside of the disk,brass piece and arm are what i am referring to...the arm has a hole on one end,an offset and a forked opening on the other end...so you have the two pieces riding on the brass piece,i think........*chuckle....that is the backside i'm referring to....the arm with the fork is pretty ugly on the fork end....I can't picture in my head what that looks like....btw i live 15min south of elk river Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,231 #18 Posted September 21, 2018 I understand where you are talking about, I just don't get what you are trying to do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ol~horses 4 #19 Posted September 22, 2018 Steveasauus the brass nut on mine had been worn down, causing a bind ...I used a little hand grinder to remove some material from the backside of the head of the brass nut...this gave me free floating (bindless) operation THEN *chuckle, my son in law figured out how to adjust the governor unit (as UNIT) ...yep, he IS a smart fella!...(bails me out, A-lot).... thanks to all who have been giving me a hand! Last but not least, cannot seem to find a ignition sw......been to couple of suppliers without getting the proper replacement...they say the part number of their unit is a direct replacement it AIN"t.....the ones they insist is correct has the wrong contact orentation so when you release the key from start position you also lose the run circuit......anybody know what the correct part number is? last but not least, did Wheel Horse ever make a cab that zipped up/down so you'd stay dry when blowing snow.....I've go one but don't know who made it...came with a frame attachment that attaches it to the tractor...it fits the B-80, ddon't know about the others Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,200 #20 Posted September 22, 2018 26 minutes ago, ol~horses said: Last but not least, cannot seem to find a ignition sw......been to couple of suppliers without getting the proper replacement...they say the part number of their unit is a direct replacement it AIN"t.....the ones they insist is correct has the wrong contact orentation so when you release the key from start position you also lose the run circuit......anybody know what the correct part number is? Glad to hear yours is up and running better. I don't know the part number off the top of my head but I can assure you they are still available. if you do a Google search for 5 Pin tractor ignition switch with battery ignition there will be options that come up. Companies that sell them include I save tractors. Com DB Electrical. Com And of course the all-inclusive excellent popular auction site. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,231 #21 Posted September 22, 2018 BTW...Welcome to Red Square. Check out this thread for your ignition switch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ol~horses 4 #22 Posted September 27, 2018 wondering if I missed something.......while delving into the above problem I discovered that this rookie gets easily confused because when I metered the pins on both a new switch and the one that was on the unit when I got it.....the results when comparing them make no sense to me. The old switch had perfect readings between the center pin and 2 other pins in both start and run. and a perfect reading between the center pin and 1 other pin in run position; and one unused pin.The new one : center pin to 3 other pins ...in start mode and 1 pin to run...tried it several times with same results.....don't dare trust the old one again as it did a BIGTIME arc when stuff hit the fan! I am trying to choose between two suggested replacement possibilities...so..what does the schematic (hook up diagram) look like for the utube version since I'm stuck waiting for a solenoid anyway (my brides suggestion was sell 'em all) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,200 #23 Posted September 27, 2018 @953 nut Has some wonderful schematic diagrams It's okay if you don't follow the directions of your bride. Lots of us have been known to do the same thing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites