cgambino1018 21 #1 Posted August 5, 2018 A few weeks ago I asked about losing power and it wound up being low on hydro oil.. I suspected that the belt was slipping and just had to look. I took the cover off to look at the belt and pulleys and they all look good but I noticed the belt was loose (about 2 in of play) and I assume that is too much. I then noticed the top pulley had no tension on it. Should there be a spring there to hold the tension of the belt? Thanks Chris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 10,642 #2 Posted August 5, 2018 I'm sure some one can explain this better than me, but here goes. When the transmission is in the park position there should be no tension on the drive belt. It should have slack in order to start the engine without turning the transmission. It's only when you engage the transmission does the belt tighten up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,514 #3 Posted August 5, 2018 When you remove your foot off the clutch pedal a spring tensions the belt. What model Horse do you have? Here's a peek--boo at my 520-8 linkage: https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro/mowers-lawn-garden-tractor/41-20o801-520-8-toro-520-8-garden-tractor-1990/clutch-brake-and-speed-control-linkage-520-8/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,562 #4 Posted August 5, 2018 (edited) You are missing item # 41 in this pic It firs behind the idler pulley...connects to the flat bar that thye pulley is mounted on...the other end to the tunnel housing...maybe to the frame. Edited August 5, 2018 by daveoman1966 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 4,895 #5 Posted August 5, 2018 Here are a couple of not real great pics but best I could find at this hour. Upper end of spring hooks into a tab on the tension arm right behind the pulley. Lower end of spring connects to the little 1/4" (5/16" wrench) bolt in the frame. I take the outer nut off then hook spring into upper end then slide spring onto bolt and loosely tighten nut. Nut should hold spring on but not clamp tightly to it. I then lift up on pulley and slide belt under it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 6,706 #6 Posted August 5, 2018 14 minutes ago, cleat said: Upper end of spring hooks into a tab on the tension arm right behind the pulley. Lower end of spring connects to the little 1/4" (5/16" wrench) bolt in the frame. I take the outer nut off then hook spring into upper end then slide spring onto bolt and loosely tighten nut. Nut should hold spring on but not clamp tightly to it. I then lift up on pulley and slide belt under it. That would be a 7/16" wrench. Use a locknut and don't tighten it against the spring. I learned a trick yesterday when installing the drive belt, I tied the pulley up using a long wire tie thru thru the console bolt holes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cgambino1018 21 #7 Posted August 5, 2018 Thanks everyone for the detail and quick response. Ordering the spring now. Chris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 4,895 #8 Posted August 5, 2018 2 hours ago, lynnmor said: That would be a 7/16" wrench. Use a locknut and don't tighten it against the spring. I learned a trick yesterday when installing the drive belt, I tied the pulley up using a long wire tie thru thru the console bolt holes. Sorry, I meant 7/16". It was dark and I hit the wrong key. I always use a new locknut but if the original one still holds it may be OK as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ohiofarmer 3,155 #9 Posted August 5, 2018 My springs kept breaking and I have better luck with a cut section of motorcycle tube. It really does not take much "pressure' to keep that belt from slipping. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cgambino1018 21 #10 Posted August 14, 2018 Springs on and now no more belt slipping.. now moving on to the brakes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites