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Hi all,

 

I need some help.  I replaced the Tecumseh HH100 motor on my Charger 9 with a Kohler K241 with S/G.  I have a good 4988 key switch for it, there is no starter solenoid, and need help figuring out what gauge wire to use and in what connections.  I am mostly interested in the start, ignition, and battery charging circuits.  Any help/advice is appreciated.  I have never had a WH without a starter solenoid.  Makes me a little nervous connecting the battery directly to the switch so want to make double/triple sure I use the right gauge wire everywhere.  Thanks!

 

 

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6 ga is ok for battery to switch and switch to A terminal on S/G.12 ga is more than adequate for regulator to battery (probably could use 14  on  a good day these Gennys are only good for about 12 amps.)

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Thank you—that info really helps me.

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Does this wiring diagram look right for starting, ignition, and charging circuits and gauge wire?

 

 

F4BCD386-891D-4A1D-8CA5-9B7A2995B53F.jpeg

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That looks good with the starter generator squeezed in there

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If you want to make it safer, use a starting relay mounted on the frame inside the dash stand to keep it hidden and protected, then the lighter duty key switch can handle the job versus having to use the heavier gauge wiring in that dash. The models in the 60's that used the starter-gen systems with the key switch handling the heavy current were a bit of a dicey move - especially right behind the fuel tank on those models. Using a Ford type or heavy-duty lawn mower relay would take that high amperage wiring out of the dash, not to mention be a lot safer.

 

Sarge

 

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Sarge, is your idea correctly illustrated in the attached photo?

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Posted (edited)

You could keep your existing switch and still use the solenoid.  Just leave the 12 ga wire where it is from the Regulator B terminal to the + Battery Terminal

Edited by pfrederi
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It appears either the regulator, the starter/generator, or both are failing as I get very erratic voltage readings on my multimeter from regulator B terminal with tractor running.  I assume the coil gets its charge from the battery so unless the battery is charging while running the tractor will eventually lose spark (please confirm).  Thanks.

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On ‎7‎/‎29‎/‎2018 at 9:13 AM, Sarge said:

If you want to make it safer, use a starting relay mounted on the frame inside the dash stand to keep it hidden and protected, then the lighter duty key switch can handle the job versus having to use the heavier gauge wiring in that dash. The models in the 60's that used the starter-gen systems with the key switch handling the heavy current were a bit of a dicey move - especially right behind the fuel tank on those models. Using a Ford type or heavy-duty lawn mower relay would take that high amperage wiring out of the dash, not to mention be a lot safer.

 

Sarge

 

Sarge gets a salute from me ….. since you doing the re-wiring adding a solenoid now is the WAY to go it is simple and MUCH safer.... additional cost $20 plus some wires...... 

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Hi guys!

 

Thanks for your suggestions and reference materials.  Can you please look at my schematic and let me know if it will work—I am hoping I have learned something from all the help.  The advice to add a solenoid in the starting circuit makes sense.  I really hate to get a new switch and would like to use what I have to keep it as original as possible.  Thanks.

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Looks like a winner to me!!!

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On 9/9/2018 at 11:58 PM, kto434 said:

It appears either the regulator, the starter/generator, or both are failing as I get very erratic voltage readings on my multimeter from regulator B terminal with tractor running.  I assume the coil gets its charge from the battery so unless the battery is charging while running the tractor will eventually lose spark (please confirm).  Thanks.

Quite often a digital voltmeter will read all over the place with the engine running. Use an analog meter and recheck. If you don't have one, TSC Lowes ect have them for about 20 bucks.

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