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johnnymag3

418 A not charging....test procedure?

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I need to know how to test my rectifier, and stator, all of a sudden my tractor shows no voltage going back to battery, amp gauge rides on 12 volts, instead of 13.6 or so, and my DVOM tells the same story...HELP !!!!!

 

thanks everyone !!!

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I went through all of my electrical connections, and they are spotless...ground is good too at the rectifier. Tractor never seems rain, or wetness....the terminals are fine

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also looked at the back of the key switch, because I know that the current flows through there too????   looking at schematic    ???? CONFUSED

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The two wires that go to the stater should read about 30 to 36 volts AC with the engine operating at or above half throttle. If they don't then the problem is under the flywheel. If voltage is correct then the B+ terminal of the regulator should read higher than battery voltage at rest, if not the regulator or the wire from it is the problem.

 

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The wire from the Stator is the wire you are talking about? The one that runs to the rectifier?  how do I test the B+ terminal, to ground with the Meter?

 

 

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I guess im looking for your expertise, as I never had to deal with this on any of the herd

 

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I should have been more specific. The "B" terminal on your ignition switch is what I was talking about. Touch the probe of the meter to it and the other to ground with the key on and then with the engine running.

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Is it possible that my Ignition Switch is bad if all other items check out/????

 

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By the way......................JULY 4th is around the corner...   !!!!!!   Hug a Veteran !!!!! and say Thank You

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THANK YOU  953 NUT for what you have done for us

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To test the stator unplug the 3 wire plug from the regulator. Two of the wires will be white one orange.  Test for AC current on the 2 white wires.  As Richard said you should get 30 volts or more AC

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OK....UPDATE !!!!

tested Stator, 29-30 VAC depending in RPM

tested rectifier 14.6 VDC at B+ center terminal

followed black wire with white tracer to ignitioin switch...from B+ on rectifier..........and AH HAAA....loose male terminal on back of Ignition Switch, where the brass is knurled over at the factory to keep a tight connection....wiggled plug and terminal -----------13.85 VDC going to Battery now !!   Need a new switch, and maybe a new plug with a pigtail of wires to repair my troubled area..!!!! Mystery solved because of all your help here on this wonderful Wheel Horse site..Thanks to everyone who responded. Where should I hunt for a switch, and a new plug?

 

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My switch is a 111215, but it seems to be superceded by 103991   Are they the same.....are there any photos on this sit to show the legend  for the back of the switch?

FATHERS DAY IS COMING !!!!!

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Perfect     do I just cut and splice one wire at a time to convert the non color match?    is there a photo on this site to describe each wires job and what it goes to?

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I ordered both links you sent me    AWESOME!!!!

 

This site has done so much for me .....thank you !!!

 

From troubleshooting to repair to replacement parts

 

If its not red.....its dead     Thanks Elmer !

 

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36 minutes ago, johnnymag3 said:

Perfect     do I just cut and splice one wire at a time to convert the non color match?    is there a photo on this site to describe each wires job and what it goes to?

One wire at a time is the way to go! You can use crimp butt connectors or electrical wire nuts.These diagrams I just posted will give you an idea of where the wires from the ignition switch go and what the systems are.

 

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I wouldn't chop up the wiring harness just yet.  The problem terminal can be removed from the plug and replaced.  I have the terminals and proper open barrel crimper to install a new one.  The terminals can be bought at Sarjo's, and the crimper at one of the local electrical supply houses.    

 

Bill

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If you are going to splice in a new plug be sure to use a quality high leverage cripmer and double crimp butt splices.  Double crimp splices can be bought at Sarjo's (you will have to ask the counter person for them).   They have a seperate strain relief for the insulation and much higher quality then the standard splices from the autoparts store.

 

Bill 

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will do, i have started to lay out my tools, and plans for the swap    Thanks, Bill

 

John

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Entire switch repair is complete, and harness installed....Operating like its suposed to know for 2 Hrs. on the meter !!! Thanks everyone

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