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Exhaust

I think this is a c 161, recently picked it up.  The motor was getting too much movement from worn out rubber bushings so they had to be replaced.  I wasn't interested in spending the money on the rubber OEM bushings so I used washers instead.  Here is the process I used, I'd be interested in any opinions you all might have, let me know if you recommend something else or if you would have done it differently.

 

Before modification.

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Rubber mounts removed, wood block to protect fingers.  I did the front two mounts then the rear two.  When replacing the front mounts (or the rear), I loosened the rear mount bolts to allow the motor to move around more freely.  It helped to get the bolts out and allow install of washers. 

IMG_3686.JPG.693ad8f96fdddb4d654e6667ee948899.JPG

 

 

The two mounts at the bottom of the picture show before and after of removing the rubber bushings.  You also see I had to grind about 1/8th" off of the side of 4 washers for each mount to allow room for fitting into place due to nearby bolts.  The inside diameter of the washers were a little bigger than I would have liked but the way they stacked up in sequence will allow them to be plenty strong, I hope!  

IMG_3685.JPG.52dafee1b071f0b5bb99301967ea90f7.JPG

 

 

Used a cheap wood saw to cut the rubber from the metal.

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Forced the cylinder out of the rubber interior bushing and cleaned the rubber off the cylinder.  Doesn't need to be all that clean, just good enough to allow it to move into place when mounting.  

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Mounts in place with washers.  You can see how 2 washers on top and 2 washers below needed to be ground to allow space between the nearby bolts.  They are not bolted tight at this point but this was basically the end.  I first tightened the front 2 mounts to pull the motor forward so the drive pulley would be close as possible to original position.  Not confident this made any difference but I did it anyway.  

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A picture of the front mounts with washers installed.  

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That's it.  Hope this might be of use to someone on a later date.  

 

 

 

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Exhaust

Here is a picture of the c 161 and my helper putting it back together.  

5b149855570b0_IMG_3692-Copy.thumb.JPG.5d5bf60daab9625bd89f0b2104bf45f4.JPG

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pacer

Well, we can see now why that "fix" turned out so well -- that 'assistant' kept everything straight!!:lol:

 

Seriously, that looks to be a very nice fix for those dern 'shaker' mounts!

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Exhaust

Haha!  She's a treat to have around.  Doesn't stick with me too long but a welcome distraction when she does.  She's got her own set of tools (mostly so she doesn't lose any of mine) which gives her good reason to tinker with Dad and ask questions.  I'll leave her curious electrical components or a wood puzzle in her area sometimes.  Slip a message in there just to see if she's paying any attention to it.  

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Daddy Don

How much vibration did it add to the tractor

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Exhaust

The rubber bushings were so worn out they actually allowed alot of slop, so they weren't dampening the vibration any more.  The motor has no shutter or movement now that the washers are in place, whereas before it was shimming and shaking. 

 

I don't like the rubber bushing concept (cost of replacement & replacement time is a hassle) but I don't think the current condition of these is a fair judgment of how they should perform, these bushings were done.  

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JoeM

whmounts.jpgBrian Miller has a kit for these listed on his web site.

 

Solid mounts with wide, thick flat washers and mounting hardware. $40.00 per set of four plus shipping & handling

 

To place an order, please call either number 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell)

 

http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/a1miller.htm

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Exhaust

Those look ideal, thanks for that info Joe.  If these washers don't work out I'll definitely be ordering a set of those. 

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Daddy Don

Thanks for the information may try it.

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JackHorse

Great article, my iso mounts are up for replacement this winter. By the way, how was vibration after you did the modification?  Thanks for posting.

Edited by JackHorse
Added question

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