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ChrisJordan

Should this pin tap out?

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Posted (edited)

I have recenty bought a 312-8 which is scruffy but running quite well.  I want to make a 'wheelie bin' (garbage bin) carrier to fit on the back to take the bin down our 400yd long track, but cant figure out how to remove the existing towing hitch.

Should the pin supporting it tap out after removing the circlips?  I have tried penetrating oil and warming it to free it, but it seems jammed solid. Any advice welcome!

wheelhorse1.jpg

Edited by ChrisJordan
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Posted (edited)

Yes it does come out, need to remove 1 cir clip so it can pass through, most likely rusted/painted fast, that's also the pin that holds the clevis hitch when installed, Jeff.

IMAG3551.jpg

Edited by WVHillbilly520H

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Yes it should and along with Steering Wheel removal and rear hub removal it can be one of the more difficult things to do.  There get corroded in there .  Big hammers, air chisels are a start.

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Thanks for the info, I guessed that was the case, it's probably never been out from new!  I don't want to use too much force in case of damaging the casing, so will be patient and use alternate penetrating oil and heating to see if I can free it.

Very interested in what looks like a front blade you have fitted Jeff, any chance of a photo oor two?   Chris

 

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Penetrating oil, I like PB Blaster.

Using a brass drift; spray lube, tap, ta, tap. Some today, more PB Blaster and tap, tap, tap;; tomorrow.

The brass drift won't disfigure the steel pin. Be patient.

Took me a few days but eventually the pin came out.

Clean all, emery cloth shine! Polished! New clips.

Never-Seez before reinstalling the pin. :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

Add "Lube, Hitch Pin" to your PM (preventative maintenance) routines.

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Go easy with the heat, you have a gasket right there and to replace it would not be fun.  That pin was completely loose when new and that is what you want when done.

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Good point there lynnmor, I'll go easy on the heat, just a hot air paint stripper not a torch!   Will take your advice Tankman there's no rush, I'll let it soak between attempts.

Thanks again for all the info.

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There are many posts on here describing the many techniques used to remove these stubborn pins.

They include  penetrating liquids, drilling small holes in each half of the casing lug to get the penetrant to the pin, heat and candle wax, drilling the pin nearly thru and  driving the pin out using a drift inside the drilled pin, cutting the pin in three pieces with a radiac wheel to remove the hitch and then press the pieces out on a press and drill the center piece out of the tranny.

 

Just search "frozen hitch Pins or hitch pin removal" and you will find the horror stories.

 

                    GOOD LUCK

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@ChrisJordan :WRS:

 

As you tap the pin with the brass drift....work it one way...penetrant....work it the opposite direction....penetrant,,,etc, etc. It will soon drive all the way out.

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Nobody has said yet to run a file on the ends to clean that up.  You don't want it to start moving and then the end is mushroomed.  Work the hitch up and down to loosen that part.  Don't be afraid to use some torch heat and then some candle wax.  An air hammer with a blunt end bit can get things started also.  In the end...a sawz-all gets it done...drill it out and be done with it.  :occasion-xmas:  It is a 1/2" rod you can get at ACE, TSC, ETC and either set it up for a "C" clip or a Carter Key.  :)

 

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7 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

Nobody has said yet to run a file on the ends to clean that up.  You don't want it to start moving and the the end is mushroomed.  Work the hitch up and down to loosen that part.  Don't be afraid to use some torch heat and then some candle wax.  An air hammer with a blunt end bit can get things started also.  In the end...a sawz-all gets it done...drill it out and be done with it.  :occasion-xmas:  It is a 1/2" rod you can get at ACE, TSC, ETC and either set it up for a "C" clip or a Carter Key.  :)

 

 

 

I think it is 3/4"

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Sorry Paul...my older ones from the 60's are 1/2"...the newer ones are probably 3/4"  don't know...but a sawz-all still works.  :)

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You asked Jeff for a pic if his dozer blade Chris.    Here is the 48" blade on my 312H.

5aa903d46f00e_IMG_0004(1).JPG.d47b67815e3b79a5dec78fa9049a3f23.JPGIMG_0052.JPG.4e14ac18a658d1bf822ac2e6177d5476.JPG

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Sorry Jeff......I didn't mean to wake you.        See the source image          :laughing-rolling:

 

                                                                        

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Just now, Ed Kennell said:

Sorry Jeff......I didn't mean to wake you.        See the source image          :laughing-rolling:

 

                                                                        

Somebody needs too, up at 3 AM at work by 5, home by 3:30 then bedtime if I'm lucky by 9-9:30...😴

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'Morning everybody, thanks for all the info. I am going to taking the slow and gentle method to get the pin out; heat/wd40/tap one way then the other. I'll give this a week or so as there is no rush, hopefully it will work if not I can borrow a hydraulic gear puller that might be persuaded to push it out.   Great photos of the snow plough/dozer, it's amazing what pushing power these tractors have!   How do you think a blade like these would handle grading our track? I will be using stone a little coarser than in Jeff's photos. I can get the delivery truck driver to draw the pile out as he tips it, but it will still need a lot of pushing around to fill the potholes.

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WD40 is not penetrating oil.

 

get some kroil or other real penetrating oil and you will stand a better chance.

 

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2 hours ago, ChrisJordan said:

   How do you think a blade like these would handle grading our track? I will be using stone a little coarser than in Jeff's photos. I can get the delivery truck driver to draw the pile out as he tips it, but it will still need a lot of pushing around to fill the potholes.

Slow and easy and these little snow/dozers earn their keep no matter was substance they are pushing/grading, Jeff.

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It's out at last!!!  A combination of penetrating oil (ATF + Acetone), tapping one way then the other, drilling oil holes in the casting, heating it up, and finally what shifted it... A large pair of stilsons on the left hand end and twisting hard! You can see the teeth marks on the left hand end of the pin.  The stilsons had to go on so that I pulled up to turn the pin, no room the other way round. I put the jack under the handle of the stilsons and raised it so that it was lifting the back of the tractor, then I jumped onto the seat, that shifted it!

Next jobs; get a new pin from our local agricultural supplier, ream the casting out and fit grease nipples, then I can get on with making the bin carrier at last.  Annoyingly I missed a fairly complete snow plough/grader add-on that was on ebay last week, so I think I am going to have to make one from scratch they are very rare here in the UK. Plenty of drawings around though so I should be able to copy a tried and tested design.

Thanks to all for the suggestions and photos, they were a great help.

 

IMG_20180409_130634.jpg.2863c655cfec31cfcc841176f993471b.jpg

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:happy-wavemulticolor::woohoo:     You passed the first :wh: challenge.    Next test is removing a steering wheel.

Thanks for the new word for our pipe wrench (stilson).

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Congrats, it's sort of a right of passage here - as well as the rear wheel hubs and steering wheels. Flywheels can be another one at times. Now is the time to invest or a build a bearing splitter/puller - you will need it someday in the future.

 

My personal favorite of UK terminology - "dynamo"....lol.

 

Sarge

 

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@Chris Jordan have you had any problems with the trans dipstick? I have had trouble getting mine out. I was just curious if other 312 owners had this problem. 

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