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Im gonna start a thread on this tractor so I can keep track of progress on it. I got the tractor the other day from a guy on CL for 50.00 in unknown condition basically.

 

Anyway this is it, a commando 8, 3 speed, 1969-70?  with a original tecumseh engine.

 

Plans are to get it running & clean it up, I dont really want to change the paint, the sun weathered look something you cant duplicate.  Probably detail the engine a bit, clean up the wheels and try to keep this one kind of original looking since most of my tractor builds are modified.  Get a seat, a headlight lens, no idea how I could fix that chrome fender trim, probably just leave it.  There are two holes in the hood I dont know what they are for.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by mrshaft696
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So tonight was the first time i messed with it, and after freeing up the starter and starter gear I got it to crank.  I have proven I have good spark, but I am not sure yet about the fuel. This thing has 3 lines going to the pump on the carb, so i need to re-run or at least check all the lines, this happened to me on another tractor that the fuel pump line was clogged.

 

So if i squirt carb cleaner in, it will run for a second... I do get a funky whine of some kind, not sure if it is a belt/pulley or what, I had to wrap up and go inside.  So I will mess around with it again tomorrow. 

 

I cant believe you can't take off the engine cover without pulling the flywheel?  At least i think that is the case...

 

 

Edited by mrshaft696
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I would think the pulley would come off the top of flywheel. Looks like it is on there.                        to wrap a rope on to turn engine over.

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8 hours ago, Howie said:

I would think the pulley would come off the top of flywheel. Looks like it is on there.                        to wrap a rope on to turn engine over.

 

 

OK maybe the 3 posts on the top hold that pulley on, seems logical, I was thinking they were all together for some reason.

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45 minutes ago, mrshaft696 said:

 

 

OK maybe the 3 posts on the top hold that pulley on, seems logical, I was thinking they were all together for some reason.

 

it may seem like it when you go to separate...they're the same posts that a serrated receiver is secured to (for the recoil dogs.)

2n84x01.jpg

 

that should be fine being gravity fed (bypass the fuel pump) at least for troubleshooting... unless you're working on the side of a hill :lol:

Edited by classiccat

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14 minutes ago, classiccat said:

 

it may seem like it when you go to separate...they're the same posts that a serrated receiver is secured to (for the recoil dogs.)

 

 

that should be fine being gravity fed (bypass the fuel pump) at least for troubleshooting... unless you're working on the side of a hill :lol:

 

 

That is interesting , I was kind of wondering why they bothered with a pump, heck the rebuild kit for it is almost as much as I paid for the tractor.

I'm sure it will work but that will be a easy way to trouble shoot the fuel issue.

Edited by mrshaft696

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Looks like the tank is high enough for it to gravity feed the carb. Not sure why they would              put a fuel pump on there. If one were going to be used there are others that are cheaper.

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7 hours ago, Howie said:

Looks like the tank is high enough for it to gravity feed the carb. Not sure why they would              put a fuel pump on there. If one were going to be used there are others that are cheaper.

 

 

ok I played with the carb/pump a little tonight.. When I got home the carb was leaking a little so I dropped the bowl to inspect it & it looked ok, not too dirty & the float seemed ok, I didnt verify that it floated but the engine wasn't flooding.

 

I pulled off all the lines and blew into them, the main fuel line was ok, the line behind the governor arm was ok, but the one at the bottom was clogged and when I remove it oil is draining out of it?

 

I checked the oil and it is missing the dipstick thing but it is almost full to under the cap, so i think it might be overfull.

 

Another sketchy thing is that the lines plugged into the bottom of the fuel pump are friction fit into it basically, so they can pull out of the bottom of it easily.

 

Either way it still will only start on carb cleaner for a second, I guess i should pull and inspect the entire carb, clean it out. I am afraid to take apart the fuel pump, but might have too.  Gonna replace all the lines too.

 

I could test it without the pump but i would need one of those threaded barbed fittings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by mrshaft696

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keep digging!   This old tec will be growling at the neighbors in no time.

 

Give the float a shake to see if it's holding fluid...it probably is due for a good cleaning. 

 

I believe the line you're finding some oil is actually the pulse line...the modulation of crankcase pressure pulses the fuel pump diaphragm.

 

check fleabay for a rebuild kit for the fuel pump... do you think this one would fit?

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Drain that crankcase before doing much else. I kind of wonder if the leaking carb drained into there. If the crankcase is that full it will push it out 

that pulse line. Could probably rebuild that pump or use one like Briggs uses. I would clean and rebuild carb also.

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10 hours ago, classiccat said:

keep digging!   This old tec will be growling at the neighbors in no time.

 

Give the float a shake to see if it's holding fluid...it probably is due for a good cleaning. 

 

I believe the line you're finding some oil is actually the pulse line...the modulation of crankcase pressure pulses the fuel pump diaphragm.

 

check fleabay for a rebuild kit for the fuel pump... do you think this one would fit?

 

Yeah I believe that is the right kit, I did see it on parts tree and it was more expensive...

 

Anyway why are there two lines, maybe I can figure out which one is which,  my other mowers with a pump just have one pulse line?

 

If the lower one is the pulse line there is no way it is working because it is leaking oil, which doesn't seem right.  Either someone overfilled it or the gas leaked into it possibly.

 

Ill pull the carb off later and start disassembly, on this model the bolts are really hard to turn, its very annoying.

 

 

My engine is a #VH80-148001

 

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7 minutes ago, mrshaft696 said:

 

Yeah I believe that is the right kit, I did see it on parts tree and it was more expensive...

 

Anyway why are there two lines, maybe I can figure out which one is which,  my other mowers with a pump just have one pulse line?

 

If the lower one is the pulse line there is no way it is working because it is leaking oil, which doesn't seem right.  Either someone overfilled it or the gas leaked into it possibly.

 

Ill pull the carb off later and start disassembly, on this model the bolts are really hard to turn, its very annoying.

 

 

My engine is a #VH80-148001

 

 

Ahh!  I think you're confusing the breather tube with a second pulse tube; there is only 1 pulse tube.

 

To clarify, that tube right next to the fuel pump is coming out of the breather / valve-cover.  That's what allows air to escape on the piston down-strokes (then on the up-strokes, the reed closes and you maintain partial crankcase vacuum)... that tube doesn't connect to anything...just exhales outside of the block.

 

You can also buy an aftermarket (plastic) fuel pump... I think Larry Winn sells them on fleabay as well.

 

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13 minutes ago, classiccat said:

 

Ahh!  I think you're confusing the breather tube with a second pulse tube; there is only 1 pulse tube.

 

To clarify, that tube right next to the fuel pump is coming out of the breather / valve-cover.  That's what allows air to escape on the piston down-strokes (then on the up-strokes, the reed closes and you maintain partial crankcase vacuum)... that tube doesn't connect to anything...just exhales outside of the block.

 

You can also buy an aftermarket (plastic) fuel pump... I think Larry Winn sells them on fleabay as well.

 

Quote

 

 

 

I think you are

13 minutes ago, classiccat said:

 

Ahh!  I think you're confusing the breather tube with a second pulse tube; there is only 1 pulse tube.

 

To clarify, that tube right next to the fuel pump is coming out of the breather / valve-cover.  That's what allows air to escape on the piston down-strokes (then on the up-strokes, the reed closes and you maintain partial crankcase vacuum)... that tube doesn't connect to anything...just exhales outside of the block.

 

You can also buy an aftermarket (plastic) fuel pump... I think Larry Winn sells them on fleabay as well.

 

 

haha maybe but ill illustrate my confusion to clarify.....the ones I labeled "upper" and "lower"

 

the one that says lower leaks oil when unplugged....

 

 

ppulse.jpg

Edited by mrshaft696

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We're getting there... I can feel it!

 

The lower (coming out the shroud): EDIT: the mystery line

 

The pulse line is labeled "upper"... EDIT: Connects to the bottom pulse fitting.

 

Looking closer...is that a "T" connection at the bottom of the fuel pump???  if so, that's just going to fill your Crankcase up with fuel (EDIT: if the mystery line is connected to a fuel source)!  :o

Edited by classiccat

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if you do decide to bypass the fuel pump for now, make sure you plug that pulse line.

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16 minutes ago, classiccat said:

We're getting there... I can feel it!

 

The lower (coming out the shroud) should be the coming from your tank (or a filter ...or a sediment bowl); That looks like it's properly connected.

 

The pulse line is labeled "upper"... that I believe should connect to the fitting that you have labeled "fuel". 

 

Looking closer...is that a "T" connection at the bottom of the fuel pump???  if so, that's just going to fill your Crankcase up with fuel!  :o

 

 

yes it is a "T" fitting the I can pull out of the bottom, it is in there basically a friction fit, you can see in the 1st pic, it plugs into the bottom of the pump right next to the fuel inlet.

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1 minute ago, mrshaft696 said:

 

 

yes it is a "T" fitting the I can pull out of the bottom, it is in there basically a friction fit, you can see in the 1st pic, it plugs into the bottom of the pump right next to the fuel inlet.

 

unless I'm misunderstanding how this particular impulse pump operates, I think we figured out why you got this tractor so cheap!  :lol:

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44 minutes ago, classiccat said:

 

unless I'm misunderstanding how this particular impulse pump operates, I think we figured out why you got this tractor so cheap!  :lol:

 

 

haha maybe so, it seems logical that the fuel line and pulse line should be the only things going in.  Without seeing another setup its hard to say how it got this way.

 

Also wondering what the line coming out at the base of the engine is then....

Edited by mrshaft696
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ok I googled for a while and was able to find a manual close to what I have & yeah where I have a "T" fitting it should just be a elbow for the pulse. So I have to take it off later and look at it, see if it can be fixed or what.

 

fuel pump diagram.JPG

Edited by mrshaft696
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1 hour ago, mrshaft696 said:

Also wondering what the line coming out at the base of the engine is then....

 

you and me both brutha!

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jeez searching this forum I found another guy that had one, and his carb is setup the same way check it  out....

 

 

 

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I'm intrigued... I wonder if this is an old school hack where they put a 2nd pulse line in on the other side of the block in order to get more pulse? 

 

go to the 1:39 mark of Larry Winn's video of a horizontal shaft HH tecumseh (single pulse line):

 

Edited by classiccat

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2 hours ago, classiccat said:

I'm intrigued... I wonder if this is an old school hack where they put a 2nd pulse line in on the other side of the block in order to get more pulse? 

 

go to the 1:39 mark of Larry Winn's video of a horizontal shaft HH tecumseh (single pulse line):

 

 

Yeah I see, I  think the sears Tecumseh motors are set up like that and the wheel horse VH80 has the 3 lines of mystery.

 

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Posted (edited)

Got all the old fuel lines off, tank drained, and the oil changed, then ran out of time.  I am going to try and start it one more time now that the lower "pulse" line is not clogged & the oil is at the correct level.  Then rebuild the carb and pump when i get the parts.  Got allot of projects to get going for spring.

 

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Edited by mrshaft696
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