C120 belt and guard

[Team70R 157]

I've got a c120 8 speed that started it's life as a work horse 800. I'm having a hard time finding the correct belt and getting the belt guard  to fit. Did the real C120 have a different belt guard than the 800?

[ebinmaine 71,807]

I don't have the answer for you but maybe call A - Z  Tractor ?

[ditchdigger25 3]

If you go to partstree.com they have the parts break down for those tractors it looks like different parts numbers.

[Ed Kennell 41,326]

Does this picture of my C-120 help?

[wallfish 17,849]

12 hours ago, Team70R said:

Did the real C120 have a different belt guard than the 800?

Pretty sure the Work Horse 800 is a small frame tractor and the C120 is definitely a long frame.

A work Horse 800 had a Tecumseh engine which makes the little tab on the 800 belt guard to hold it to the engine different than that of a Kohler powered tractor. Which belt guard are you using, 800 or 120?

Make a little flat brace with 2 holes to span the gap and hold the belt guard. 

Use an old mower deck belt to wrap around the pulleys and idler to measure the belt length.

It seems like you're putting together a tractor from different parts so how about posting some pics so we can see what's going on. 

 

[peter lena 9,186]

belts are not a simple swap, I have found my local (  bearing distributor  ) to be the best help in belt info. bring in what you have and match it up, you can always bring it back  (  without usage  ) and get it spot on. another thing I have found is that with the w/h belts ,they  tend to be a little long, making the fit even at the end of adjustment , loose. by the way that will not allow the implement driven to get up to speed. inside and outside belt dimensions differ, I prefer the shorter belt , giving me more adjustment at the mule drive. I have also changed up to Kevlar belts, actually cheaper than o/e belts, internet. they have a much more solid drive function. pete

[Team70R 157]

It's the belt guard from the 800. I did some modifying of it last night but can't get it to release the belt all the way when I clutch it. I'll have to get some pics tonight 

[Ed Kennell 41,326]

Please understand,  the lower flange on these belt guards acts as a necessary support for the belt when the clutch is disengaged.  If the belt is allowed to sag, it will contact the engine drive pulley and continue to move. and  turn the transmission drive pulley making it impossible to shift gears w/o grinding.

[953 nut 59,221]

As Ed said, the lower portion is very important for stopping the belt when the clutch has been depressed. If you are unable to come up with a ready made belt guard that will meet your needs you could use an angle iron above and below the upper and lower portions of the belt attached to the engine and frame/transaxle securely. The opening could be closed with sheet metal which could be welded or riveted in place.

[Team70R 157]

 

2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

As Ed said, the lower portion is very important for stopping the belt when the clutch has been depressed. If you are unable to come up with a ready made belt guard that will meet your needs you could use an angle iron above and below the upper and lower portions of the belt attached to the engine and frame/transaxle securely. The opening could be closed with sheet metal which could be welded or riveted in place.

Been fighting a cold and didn't get a chance to get any pics. I had it clutching okay until I lowered the belt guard a hair. I'll raise it back up and see if that fixes it.. I've been looking to build a belt guard for a different horse. That's a great idea on how to do it!!

[Team70R 157]

Weather has been super crappy all week and I haven't had much time to work on it unfortunately