What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

[MainelyWheelhorse 1,329]

Yesterday, I built a shift plate and did some preassembly for the C 141. Is the C series smaller than the 3,4,and 500’s? It definitely feels like it.

 

[Achto 29,222]

3 hours ago, MainelyWheelhorse said:

Is the C series smaller than the 3,4,and 500’s? It definitely feels like it.

 

Don't think so. Always thought them to be pretty much the same, just different sheet metal and safety features.

[Racinbob 11,872]

It's just the bulkier sheetmetal. Remove that and they are identical. 

[Wayne0 1,100]

Got Ole' Rusty back together with new (to me) hydraulic lines. Wouldn't you know, I had the ports switched on the valve! Had to take it 1/2 apart again to make it right. What a PITA!!

My bad. I shudda looked at the diagram instead of relying on my (bad) memory!

All good now. I can mow the hay field of a yard and get a certain someone off my back.

[ineedanother 1,656]

Axle repaired. Outer axle bearings and seals replaced. Regal red and ready for the shelf...just a backup in case the 10-pinion fails in a worker but wanted to get it done while a had the motivation 

[HyperPete 787]

Put the hood back on my 414-8, pulled the 2nd side panel, & ground off the worst of the rust.  Still need to sandblast the pits clean before paint.

 

Inspected and wondered about PTO belt tension (6" of deflection!) and the wonky brake pedal.  I believe I adjust the PTO belt with the stop at the tensioner?  It looks like I just adjust the front nut?

 

 

The brake pedal flips back when disengaged.  It looks as if the spring in the back is present and not stretched.  Is this just an extremely out of adjustment brake?

 

 

 

Lastly, I checked out the tiller shaft and tines.  Do the seals go on the shaft in/under the cup in the first photos below, or in the cup on the tines themselves (final photo)?  Does that cup on the shaft/case come off?

 

 

 

 

Tomorrow I'll be working on these to-dos.

Thanks, everyone!

Edited May 25 by HyperPete
Corrected multiple errors

[Ed Kennell 41,284]

24 minutes ago, HyperPete said:

 

 

Inspected and wondered about PTO belt tension (6" of deflection!) and the wonky brake pedal.  I believe I adjust the PTO belt with the stop at the tensioner?  It looks like I just adjust the front nut?

Are you talking about the PTO belt or the transmission drive belt?

Your first two pictures are of the clutch damper piston for the drive belt.  Go to the manual for your tractor for instructions on adjusting the damper. 

[HyperPete 787]

3 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

Are you talking about the PTO belt or the transmission drive belt?

Your first two pictures are of the clutch damper piston for the drive belt.  Go to the manual for your tractor for instructions on adjusting the damper. 

 

I didn't photograph the belt itself.right side, in front of my knee, going around the PTO.

 

Viewing the clutch damper kit doc, it appears it is the drive belt. Now to find which of the many docs I downloaded is the correct one.

 

Thank you.

Edited May 26 by HyperPete

[HyperPete 787]

Nevermind, I believe I found what I need

 

Edited May 26 by HyperPete
Trying not to be helpless

[Ed Kennell 41,284]

This is the engine to transmission drive belt in operation.  It is tensioned by the spring loaded idler/tension pulley.  

 

 

 

The PTO and it's belt is used only to power the mowing deck, the snow blower, and the tiller.  It's belt to the mower deck is tensioned by the front mule drive.

The PTO to snow blower and tiller belts are tensioned by the tensioning pulleys on those implements.

[MainelyWheelhorse 1,329]

 

More progress today on the custom C141 parts. This time it’s an upper dash panel. Tomorrow or Tuesday I’ll mount the upper panel, and figure out where the throttle, and brake are going. Maybe another gauge too….😀.

[HyperPete 787]

7 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

This is the engine to transmission drive belt in operation.  It is tensioned by the spring loaded idler/tension pulley.  

 

 

 

The PTO and it's belt is used only to power the mowing deck, the snow blower, and the tiller.  It's belt to the mower deck is tensioned by the front mule drive.

The PTO to snow blower and tiller belts are tensioned by the tensioning pulleys on those implements.

 

I guess, when I install the tiller, I'll find out if I manage to adjust it properly.  I believe I will.

[MainelyWheelhorse 1,329]

18 hours ago, Achto said:

 

Don't think so. Always thought them to be pretty much the same, just different sheet metal and safety features.

 

18 hours ago, Racinbob said:

It's just the bulkier sheetmetal. Remove that and they are identical. 

 Ok, I guess it’s the seat height and padding with the sheet metal difference that’s making me think it’s smaller. My knees would almost hit the steering wheel with my feet flat on the footboard. 

[pfrederi 18,547]

15 hours ago, HyperPete said:

Put the hood back on my 414-8, pulled the 2nd side panel, & ground off the worst of the rust.  Still need to sandblast the pits clean before paint.

 

Inspected and wondered about PTO belt tension (6" of deflection!) and the wonky brake pedal.  I believe I adjust the PTO belt with the stop at the tensioner?  It looks like I just adjust the front nut?

 

 

 

 

The brake pedal flips back when disengaged.  It looks as if the spring in the back is present and not stretched.  Is this just an extremely out of adjustment brake?

 

 

 

 

 

Lastly, I checked out the tiller shaft and tines.  Do the seals go on the shaft in/under the cup in the first photos below, or in the cup on the tines themselves (final photo)?  Does that cup on the shaft/case come off?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tomorrow I'll be working on these to-dos.

Thanks, everyone!

 

 

The brake pedal is pulled up by spring #40 (located under the access panel ahead of the gear shift)

 

 

[Handy Don 13,632]

On 5/24/2025 at 5:38 PM, HyperPete said:

 

I always wanted  to learn CAD.  I never had the patience.

If you’ve ever been good at 2D drawing (Visio, MacDraw, etc.) and going to 2D CAD, not so difficult.

To get to 3D CAD from 2D drawing, you have to discard and unlearn most of what you already know--especially if you go to a parametric modeling system like Fusion 3D. That learning curve completely humbled me. 

[cleat 7,163]

19 hours ago, HyperPete said:

Put the hood back on my 414-8, pulled the 2nd side panel, & ground off the worst of the rust.  Still need to sandblast the pits clean before paint.

 

Inspected and wondered about PTO belt tension (6" of deflection!) and the wonky brake pedal.  I believe I adjust the PTO belt with the stop at the tensioner?  It looks like I just adjust the front nut?

 

 

The brake pedal flips back when disengaged.  It looks as if the spring in the back is present and not stretched.  Is this just an extremely out of adjustment brake?

 

 

 

Lastly, I checked out the tiller shaft and tines.  Do the seals go on the shaft in/under the cup in the first photos below, or in the cup on the tines themselves (final photo)?  Does that cup on the shaft/case come off?

 

 

 

 

Tomorrow I'll be working on these to-dos.

Thanks, everyone!

Brake pedal is too far back because the front edge of the foot rest is bent down so the stop tab on the pedal is not contacting it properly.

[ebinmaine 71,746]

On 5/25/2025 at 9:43 AM, MainelyWheelhorse said:

. Is the C series smaller than the 3,4,and 500’s? It definitely feels like it.

 

23 hours ago, Achto said:

 

Don't think so. Always thought them to be pretty much the same, just different sheet metal and safety features.

 

 

23 hours ago, Racinbob said:

It's just the bulkier sheetmetal. Remove that and they are identical. 

 

 

I've driven long frame Wheelhorses from 1967 to 1986 or even into the 1990s. 

 

IMHO the pre 1978 sheet metal is the most comfortable, sets the best for me,  and is definitely the easiest to work on.  

 

 

 

[HyperPete 787]

17 minutes ago, cleat said:

Brake pedal is too far back because the front edge of the foot rest is bent down so the stop tab on the pedal is not contacting it properly.

 

Thank you.  I'll be removing it to sand and paint, and I'll fix it at that time.

[8ntruck 7,607]

3 hours ago, Handy Don said:

If you’ve ever been good at 2D drawing (Visio, MacDraw, etc.) and going to 2D CAD, not so difficult.

To get to 3D CAD from 2D drawing, you have to discard and unlearn most of what you already know--especially if you go to a parametric modeling system like Fusion 3D. That learning curve completely humbled me. 

 

Not really.  95% of mechanical 3d CAD drawing, for me anyhow, uses the same principles as 2d drawing.  You just need to be flexible in how you keep track of the 2d plane that you are working in, as there are usually many to choose from.

 

The other 5% involves free form surfacing.  That is another thing all together.  It can get weird awfully fast.

Edited May 26 by 8ntruck

[ebinmaine 71,746]

Back in town from a great weekend camping trip. 

Hiking. Mountain biking. Relaxing. 

Pics coming....

 

This afternoon we put the 1974 C160-8 Cinnamon Horse with the 1977 Mackissic chipper shredder right to work. 

We made a trailer full of chip mulch for the garden pathways.  

Trina hauled it down with her 856/66 Military Tribute Tractor "Millie" and 1977 Ohio Steel trailer.  

 

 

[HyperPete 787]

6 hours ago, cleat said:

Brake pedal is too far back because the front edge of the foot rest is bent down so the stop tab on the pedal is not contacting it properly.

 

Took of the panels and foot rests and ground off the worst of the rust.  Ready to sandblast them to get the corners and pitted areas.

I saw no type of stop tab on either side.

 

I also replaced the seals and reassembled the tiller.  I cleaned the shaft well to remove the rust and greased them.  (In retrospect, I probably should have used anti-sieze compound.)

 

 

[ineedanother 1,656]

I opened up the motor on my spare hydro. I suspected that it would look pretty good since it worked well when I took it out of service but it's 50 y/o so I figured it deserves some attention. There is some light scoring on the slippers so I'll take care of that and open the pump to see what's in there to address. First time for me but I've read so much on here that I'm pretty confident and looking forward to the project. Thanks @daveoman1966 and others for the education 

[ineedanother 1,656]

The pump looks pretty good too but I'm glad I'm addressing it because there is some scoring. Buffing and cleaning everything will probably be effort well spent.

[cleat 7,163]

13 hours ago, HyperPete said:

 

Took of the panels and foot rests and ground off the worst of the rust.  Ready to sandblast them to get the corners and pitted areas.

I saw no type of stop tab on either side.

 

 

Here is how your pedal and foot rest should look.

You can see how there is a tab that the rod connects to. That also contacts the foot rest to stop the pedal from flopping way back.

 

 

[OutdoorEnvy 1,763]

Finally got to put my 416-8 to work!  First up though was putting on a new PTO plate.  The old one had no friction material left on it.  So got that changed over.  First bit of work was dragging a pretty big limb across to the firewood pile.  Then mowing the woods and trail down.  Always feels good to have it done and looking nice!  The Kohler Magnum 16 handled it like a beast.  I had previously done the job with a 10 and 12 and the vines always gave them a little trouble with bogging down a little and needing to mow it twice.  The 16 chewed through it one pass without missing a beat!  Between that and the nice seat it'll be hard to use my others...