Handy Don 10,702 #13176 Posted October 16, 2021 29 minutes ago, echris said: It's going to get a bit chilly tonight and I really need this machine back in service, so I used my neighbors old trick. A few carboard boxes, a heat source and time. It will greatly speed the curing process. I just have to watch it over the next few hours while it comes up to temp to ensure there no fire hazards in there and adjust the venting and position of the 75w heat lamp as necessary. Not sure if I'll leave it on overnight, although I'd love to. There's an awful lot of combustible liquids in the garage, not to mention a WH and my car. We'll see how hot it gets inside over the next few hours and then I'll decide. Swap out the heat lamp for a regular 40 or 60W bulb--not max heat, but something? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
echris 1,425 #13177 Posted October 16, 2021 An hour or so later, the cardboard which is directly in line with the heat lamp is cool enough to the touch that I'm confident it will be OK to leave on overnight. 75W's isn't all that much heat. I'll check again in a few hours, but it looks like it'll be fine overnight. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,274 #13178 Posted October 16, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Handy Don said: Swap out the heat lamp for a regular 40 or 60W bulb--not max heat, but something? I have dried small areas and parts with a 300 w heat lamp, only took a little over a half hour. The parts would get too hot to handle, didn't hurt the paint. They use to bake enamel paint on cars had a booth with a bunch of heat lamps over head. Edited October 16, 2021 by Lee1977 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
echris 1,425 #13179 Posted October 16, 2021 Mmmm baked enamel. My favorite. My older brother had a body shop back in the day. We used to love baked enamel and all sorts of other paints. Especially RM's Miracryl(?). Until we found out we were supposed to be using supplied air while using that paint. Ooops. <cough-cough> The problem with Miracryl, was no touchups. But it went on like butta! Nothing beats old school lacquer though. Wet sand, wet sand again, and then again. Glass. Then clearcoat. I kinda miss those poison paints. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
echris 1,425 #13180 Posted October 17, 2021 Finished refurbishing the seat assembly this morning. The heat box worked great last night. Only needed a few minor touchups with a brush after assembly. It is so nice finally have the gas shock on the seat. No more fumbling while trying to fill up the gas tank! Of course, now the fender really looks like hell. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 706 #13181 Posted October 17, 2021 3 hours ago, echris said: Of course, now the fender really looks like hell. Hell has fire. Fire is red. WHs are red. I see no problem. Seat looks good, smart move with the red springs. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
echris 1,425 #13182 Posted October 17, 2021 (edited) 10 minutes ago, WheelHorse520H said: Hell has fire. Fire is red. WHs are red. I see no problem. Seat looks good, smart move with the red springs. Thanks! The springs are stock, red vinyl coated. But it was peeling in spots. I pondered what to do and ended up using an Exacto knife to trim off the broken pieces and kinda feather edge the edges, then touched up with a brush. Regal Red was a dead match. You can barely even tell unless you lean over and get really close. That's when I boot you in the rear so you stop looking so close. Edited October 17, 2021 by echris 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
balconio 600 #13183 Posted October 18, 2021 (edited) Gave my 11yo son some seat time today dethatching the lawn. He did such a good job that later I had him do some of the annual field mowing while I shot fleeing field mice with my Crosman SBR. I got a bunch and also saw a hawk dive and get one. https://youtube.com/shorts/rdi3sYvx_s8 https://youtube.com/shorts/z_IH3gvER9w Edited October 18, 2021 by balconio 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CrossThread Industries 31 #13184 Posted October 18, 2021 I think I posted about my 416 earlier. I ordered up the Deestone 6p Super Lugs off ebay - I got an extra set of rims with the tractor. I also bought a couple of high-lumen LED headlamps and an Eparts low-back seat. Those seats are pricey! Well, when you start poking around, things happen. Today a big haul of sketchy equipment followed me home - very spontaneous, bought today, will sort out later. The main piece was a mostly intact 1045. There is a grader but in pretty rusted shape. Everything comes with heavy pitting - and worse - from sitting in one of those barns that has space between the vertical siding. The barn roof was good, but the gaps let a lot of weather in, obviously. The snow thrower looks operational, but quite beaten up. I got two engines in the mix, a couple of WH's without engines - they might match up. I will need help ID'ing them later on. Because I squeezed this haul between other more pressing things this weekend, I just got them into the garage and will take a closer look over the next couple of weeks. Have to get my grinder with the wire brush to work. And get into the isavetractors YouTube channel and website. 3 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,945 #13185 Posted October 18, 2021 Nothing wrong with that haul! A 1045 is a great find! Most of what I bring home looks way worse! 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 39,048 #13186 Posted October 18, 2021 (edited) Splice, splice, fizz,fizz Edited October 18, 2021 by squonk 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 706 #13187 Posted October 18, 2021 Technically it was done yesterday, but in preparation for grading the dirt driveway and plowing this winter, I dipped the wear bar on the plow for my 520. It has never been flipped or replaced by POs so the bolt were worn to the center. So went to the hardware store and got new ones for less than six bucks. Should last another 15 or so years unless I put a new one on when it needs it! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 1,444 #13188 Posted October 18, 2021 (edited) Not the WH per se, but the Speedex. Today we did electrolysis. I set it up last night, but it didn't seem to be working right, checked it after work today, definitely was not working right. My "dumb" charger is apparently smart enough to know when it's not hooked up to a real battery, so I grabbed the 12V out of the kids' PowerWheels and hooked it to the charger, then ran a set of jumper cables to my work piece and anode, and got bubbles right away, and within minutes the water was getting cloudy. I'll check it again in the morning, which will be 12 to 13 hours in the tank. If this works as well as I hope I will probably remove the gear boxes and dump the whole frame in the tub (yes, it will fit in that tub). Also, I am hoping that by using lengths of flat-iron I'll be able to clean and reuse my anodes a few times. Edited October 19, 2021 by adsm08 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,713 #13189 Posted October 19, 2021 14 minutes ago, adsm08 said: Today we did electrolysis. I set it up last night, but it didn't seem to be working right, checked it after work today, definitely was not working right. My "dumb" charger is apparently smart enough to know when it's not hooked up to a real battery, so I grabbed the 12V out of the kids' PowerWheels and hooked it to the charger, then ran a set of jumper cables to my work piece and anode, and got bubbles right away, and within minutes the water was getting cloudy. I'll check it again in the morning, which will be 12 to 13 hours in the tank. Also, I am hoping that by using lengths of flat-iron I'll be able to clean and reuse my anodes a few times. HUH? Buddy, you lost me at electrolysis... Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,713 #13190 Posted October 19, 2021 20 hours ago, CrossThread Industries said: My HellHorse looked EXACTLY Like the one without the seat before I started resto-modding it... Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 1,444 #13191 Posted October 19, 2021 (edited) 10 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said: HUH? Buddy, you lost me at electrolysis... Don So rust is iron oxide, so an iron molecule bonded to an oxygen molecule. Stick the rusty piece in a tub of water with a clean piece of iron, add something to the water to make it a good electrolyte (sodium carbonate is best, sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is a good second choice) and run an electrical current through it (in the proper direction) and it will forcibly unbond the oxygen on the rusty piece and drag it over to the clean piece. There will be some rust left on the work piece, but it should come off easily by hand. Think quick scrub with steel wool vs a heavy hit with a wire wheel and power grinder. The clean piece of iron you put in to attract the rust is called a "sacrificial anode", it is usually ruined in the process, but I'm hoping that using a flat piece I can clean it up easy and reuse it a few times before it is completely ruined. Some guys I know use old brake rotors, but I didn't have any of those handy. I did have a 10 ft strip of weld plate that I could cut sections off of. In my situation this is preferable to acid washing the corrosion, because an acid soak, like vinegar, can eat the metal away, and keep eating it once the rust is gone. This I can set up, walk away, go to bed, go to work, play with the kids, basically forget about it, and once the rust is a gone to the sacrificial piece the amperage in the system will drop to nearly zero, and the only thing that continues to be negatively impacted is my electric bill. The piece I am cleaning will loose whatever mass is already rust, but will not continue to loose material once the rust is gone. Edited October 19, 2021 by adsm08 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,713 #13192 Posted October 19, 2021 2 minutes ago, adsm08 said: So rust is iron oxide, so an iron molecule bonded to an oxygen molecule. Stick the rusty piece in a tub of water with a clean piece of iron, add something to the water to make it a good electrolyte (sodium carbonate is best, sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is a good second choice) and run an electrical current through it (in the proper direction) and it will forcibly unbond the oxygen on the rusty piece and drag it over to the clean piece. There will be some rust left on the work piece, but it should come off easily by hand. Think quick scrub with steel wool vs a heavy hit with a wire wheel and power grinder. The clean piece of iron you put in to attract the rust is called a "sacrificial anode", it is usually ruined in the process, but I'm hoping that using a flat piece I can clean it up easy and reuse it a few times before it is completely ruined. Some guys I know use old brake rotors, but I didn't have any of those handy. I did have a 10 ft strip of weld plate that I could cut sections off of. Sir, in this, I am your student. I think you should make a thread just for this and show pictures of everything. Very, very interesting. I had never heard of this before... I always thought you kinda had to use a grinder... wire wheel...etc... Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,713 #13193 Posted October 19, 2021 7 minutes ago, adsm08 said: vinegar Yeah, that is one thing that I knew worked on rust... only thing is... like you said... you kinda have to neutralize with baking soda...etc.. and even then... it still eats the metal... Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,713 #13194 Posted October 19, 2021 36 minutes ago, adsm08 said: yes, it will fit in that tub Will @squonk fit in that tub? Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 1,444 #13195 Posted October 19, 2021 Just now, Snoopy11 said: Sir, in this, I am your student. I think you should make a thread just for this and show pictures of everything. Very, very interesting. I had never heard of this before... I always thought you kinda had to use a grinder... wire wheel...etc... Don I'm familiar with the electro-chemical reaction happening here, but this is my first attempt at actually using it for this purpose. I'll do a write-up once I have some actual results and I'm confident in my setup. This is supposed to be superior to grinding/wire wheels because those can miss the bottoms of pits, doesn't. Here is a nickel-plated penny I made in 8th grade using the same process. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,713 #13196 Posted October 19, 2021 3 minutes ago, adsm08 said: I'm familiar with the electro-chemical reaction happening here Is it dangerous? Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 1,444 #13197 Posted October 19, 2021 6 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said: Yeah, that is one thing that I knew worked on rust... only thing is... like you said... you kinda have to neutralize with baking soda...etc.. and even then... it still eats the metal... Don A few years ago I had to patch the frame in my truck. I used a muriatic acid mix to wash the rust off the donor metal, which is used in a lot of rust converters, but I was never happy with the results. The 'new' metal pitted badly, and I had a very hard time keeping it from flash-rusting again without straight up painting it. Even just a primer didn't do the job. 4 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said: Will @squonk fit in that tub? Don No idea. I mean it is a 55 gallon tub. How many Squonks are in a cord of wood? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,713 #13198 Posted October 19, 2021 Just now, adsm08 said: muriatic acid Works lovely on crankshafts... but MUST be neutralized! Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 1,444 #13199 Posted October 19, 2021 (edited) 4 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said: Is it dangerous? Don Not really. Functionally it is no different that charging a car battery. In fact, it's the same process, you are using an electrical current to pull an ion through an electrolyte from one piece of metal to another. It produces some hydrogen gas, and so it is best to do it in a well ventilated area and be careful with sparks, but the "electrolyte" solution I am using is just tap water and baking soda, so it's perfectly safe to just stick my bare hand in. Overnight lows are into the 40s and daytime highs are in the mid 60s, so the water is cold, but that's about it. Edited October 19, 2021 by adsm08 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,713 #13200 Posted October 19, 2021 3 minutes ago, adsm08 said: How many Squonks are in a cord of wood? I don't know... but it is dry wood... 'cause Squonks can dissolve their own tears... Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
