What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

[ebinmaine 63,505]

13 minutes ago, ranger said:

I wonder if the idea of “insurance” first surfaced during the “Caveman” era, and it was found that, If you kept a “deep frozen” Mammoth, (as a “Spare”) tucked away in a nearby glacier, you were always guaranteed a plentiful supply of fresh game. I suppose its the same with money, it always seems harder to get more if you don’t have much, than it does if you have lots already!

I believe your general line of thinking is headed in the right direction but I do not have a glacier, mammoth, or lots of money so as to test any part of the theory whatsoever. 

 

[ranger 1,666]

15 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I believe your general line of thinking is headed in the right direction but I do not have a glacier, mammoth, or lots of money so as to test any part of the theory whatsoever. 

 

Me neither, that’s why I started the sentences with, “I wonder if”? and “I suppose it’s”? 🤔 so it looks like the only way we can test the theory is to keep collecting “Spares” and putting up more shelves to store them. The thing is, when you “Aquire” another “Horse”, do the “Spares” for the previous one count as “insurance” for the new one or must you go shopping again??? Like auto insurance. 🤪. “Phew” I need another JD, ( Jack Daniels, not John Deere!). 🥃🥃🥃

[Tractorhead 8,684]

On 6/27/2021 at 11:03 PM, 8ntruck said:

It finally stopped raining long enough to mow the lawn - well, most of it.  I got into some heavier grass in my neighbor's lot next door (if it needs mowing when I have the Horse out, I go ahead and do it) and the deck was not cutting well.  Stopped, backed up,  start forward again, cut OK for a few feet, then nothing.  Blades still turning, but the PTO was visibly slower than it should be.  PTO belt properly tensioned.  Blades were sharpened two mowings ago.

 

I think my PTO clutch lining is worn out.  The lining is about 1/8" thick, and the tension adjustment is all used up.  I'm disappointed!  The clutch lining only lasted 48 years .  Seems like a new lining is 3/16" or 1/4" thick.

 

Guess what I'll be shopping for this week.

 

I had nearly same issue with a hardly wear belt.

To be hones that was cheaper belts, not the cheapest at least but no high quality.

I found a better belt what cost double the cheaper belt, that lasts now much longer.

 

But however, to cut high grass a Sicklebar will be the better choice i believe.

i tried it last time with my Hedgemower what is made out of an Sicklebar, that works much better.

 

Additionally i thinkering about movable disc blades for my Deck like the huge mowersystems have.

I believe that could do the trick on mowing high Grass much better  between 60-80cm and up.

 

So i thinkering also about build myself a complete Discmower Deck out of 2 angled Gearbox from an old RM Deck.

i just have to find a usable gearboxes and get them not too pricey to my location.

 

[Lee1977 6,300]

36 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

 

I had nearly same issue with a hardly wear belt.

To be hones that was cheaper belts, not the cheapest at least but no high quality.

I found a better belt what cost double the cheaper belt, that lasts now much longer.

 

But however, to cut high grass a Sicklebar will be the better choice i believe.

i tried it last time with my Hedgemower what is made out of an Sicklebar, that works much better.

 

Additionally i thinkering about movable disc blades for my Deck like the huge mowersystems have.

I believe that could do the trick on mowing high Grass much better  between 60-80cm and up.

 

So i thinkering also about build myself a complete Discmower Deck out of 2 angled Gearbox from an old RM Deck.

i just have to find a usable gearboxes and get them not too pricey to my location.

 

 A single spindle 32" or 36" bush hog type deck would work good, what ever size you can fit under the tractactor.

I have a 30" Snapper  with a single straight blade that does great in tall grass doesn't wrap the grass around the spindles like a two or three blade deck does.

[Handy Don 10,750]

3 hours ago, ranger said:

Many people consider “Insurance” an unnecessary expense

So for each tractor, we need a spare for insurance. And then, of course, insurance for the spare, and so on.....

 

[ranger 1,666]

16 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

 

I had nearly same issue with a hardly wear belt.

To be hones that was cheaper belts, not the cheapest at least but no high quality.

I found a better belt what cost double the cheaper belt, that lasts now much longer.

 

But however, to cut high grass a Sicklebar will be the better choice i believe.

i tried it last time with my Hedgemower what is made out of an Sicklebar, that works much better.

 

Additionally i thinkering about movable disc blades for my Deck like the huge mowersystems have.

I believe that could do the trick on mowing high Grass much better  between 60-80cm and up.

 

So i thinkering also about build myself a complete Discmower Deck out of 2 angled Gearbox from an old RM Deck.

i just have to find a usable gearboxes and get them not too pricey to my location.

 

I have the remains of a “Westwood” D1200 ride on 7.5hp Lombardini diesel with a 42”? twin disc RD deck, it has contra rotating discs with two small swinging blades on each. This would cut very long grass without clogging, grass length which would stall the 42” SD deck on my 312-8. You could try using an old rear wheel drive car axle, (solid, not i.r.s.) cut the tubes close to the diff, fit bearings at the cut ends, pulleys on the half-shafts, single groove pulley on the outer shaft, twin groove on the inner crossed over belt between the two to contra-rotate shafts. Cutting discs attached to wheel mounting flanges. Semi mounted or tow behind with mower out the side like a sickle bar. Vertical shaft engine to drive discs. Fit blades on the top of one disc, and on the bottom of the other, to avoid leaving an uncut strip of grass and blades hitting each other. Or angle the assembly so one disc is slightly in front of the other to avoid the issues.

Mine is being made from some scrap pipe, (ex street lighting lamppost, steel bar J.Deere deck pulleys, old road sweeper brush discs, 11hp Honda engine and some self aligning flange bearings. The idea is that it will be either 3point mounted, with a support wheel on the outer end, or an offset tow behind unit.

Doug.

[ranger 1,666]

4 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

So for each tractor, we need a spare for insurance. And then, of course, insurance for the spare, and so on.....

 

I’m sure someone can come up with a formula/ equation to justify to our other halves the reasons why we need to keep increasing our “Herds” whenever possible! 

[ranger 1,666]

22 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

 A single spindle 32" or 36" bush hog type deck would work good, what ever size you can fit under the tractactor.

I have a 30" Snapper  with a single straight blade that does great in tall grass doesn't wrap the grass around the spindles like a two or three blade deck does.

Definitely! My BCS 603 16hp has one attachment, a 30” single blade deck that spins around 900 rpm. This will cut through literally anything, any height, a veritable “Beast”.

[peter lena 8,131]

@horsenewbee, local hardware store should have a small pull out drawer section , with a wide selection of those bushings , also a good spot to find related linkage clips , springs , etc look around , pete

[Tractorhead 8,684]

6 hours ago, ranger said:

I have the remains of a “Westwood” D1200 ride on 7.5hp Lombardini diesel with a 42”? twin disc RD deck, it has contra rotating discs with two small swinging blades on each. This would cut very long grass without clogging, grass length which would stall the 42” SD deck on my 312-8. You could try using an old rear wheel drive car axle, (solid, not i.r.s.) cut the tubes close to the diff, fit bearings at the cut ends, pulleys on the half-shafts, single groove pulley on the outer shaft, twin groove on the inner crossed over belt between the two to contra-rotate shafts. Cutting discs attached to wheel mounting flanges. Semi mounted or tow behind with mower out the side like a sickle bar. Vertical shaft engine to drive discs. Fit blades on the top of one disc, and on the bottom of the other, to avoid leaving an uncut strip of grass and blades hitting each other. Or angle the assembly so one disc is slightly in front of the other to avoid the issues.

Mine is being made from some scrap pipe, (ex street lighting lamppost, steel bar J.Deere deck pulleys, old road sweeper brush discs, 11hp Honda engine and some self aligning flange bearings. The idea is that it will be either 3point mounted, with a support wheel on the outer end, or an offset tow behind unit.

Doug.

 

That‘s nearly the idea i came up with, but instead of one discs, i thinkering about a doubledisc system.

it should not only cut high grass, it could probably also be useful to cut the Hedge.

 

mounted on the threepoint or maybe better on the Backhoe i build, this could be a cool Addon.

[ranger 1,666]

50 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

be

 

51 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

 

That‘s nearly the idea i came up with, but instead of one discs, i thinkering about a doubledisc system.

it should not only cut high grass, it could probably also be useful to cut the Hedge.

 

mounted on the threepoint or maybe better on the Backhoe i build, this could be a cool Addon.

Mine is going to be a twin disc system, this is just one of them. The other one is waiting for me to mill the key ways in the shaft. If you drive it hydraulically, you can run at whatever angle you want!

Doug.

[Tractorhead 8,684]

1 minute ago, ranger said:

 

Mine is going to be a twin disc system, this is just one of them. The other one is waiting for me to mill the key ways in the shaft. If you drive it hydraulically, you can run at whatever angle you want!

Doug.

 

That was in my mind.

an Oilmotor and connected to the Tractor‘s hydraulic system

[ranger 1,666]

3 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

connected

 

3 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

 

That was in my mind.

an Oilmotor and connected to the Tractor‘s hydraulic system

I would be inclined to consider using two hydraulic motors, one on each shaft. You then don’t have mechanical losses through extra shafts and gearboxes. If you use a single motor you will need a larger one to drive both cutters,  so required oil supply won’t be much different. 

Doug.

[Tractorhead 8,684]

You be right ranger,

but if i use a oilmotor with attached pulley’s over gearboxes, i can change the gearratio simply by changin pulleys.

 

so both systems have their pro and cons.

additionally i see a big advance on the oilmotor beltdriven combo the possibillity for a friction clutch.

So i can protect the hydraulicsystem from overload independently of the hydraulic oil flow and pressure.

👍

 

 

[ranger 1,666]

5 hours ago, Tractorhead said:

You be right ranger,

but if i use a oilmotor with attached pulley’s over gearboxes, i can change the gearratio simply by changin pulleys.

 

so both systems have their pro and cons.

additionally i see a big advance on the oilmotor beltdriven combo the possibillity for a friction clutch.

So i can protect the hydraulicsystem from overload independently of the hydraulic oil flow and pressure.

👍

 

 

Good idea👍. You could also fit an inline pressure relief valve across the motor connections, this would give a bit more protection to hoses, control valves, etc in case of a jam. If the discs you are going to use will have any amount of weight to them, (Flywheel effect), not a bad idea to avoid constant stopping when cutting things like hedges etc, motors are available with internal “Freewheel” valves to allow whatever is being driven to coast to a halt when switched off, rather than a potentially damaging “dead stop” as oil flow is cut off. Or you could  fit a one way check valve across the motor connections to produce the same effect, (as motor becomes a pump on overrun, and pumps oil around itself, reducing stresses to the rest of hydraulic system). Similar to the way a “Tow/Push” valve on a hydro tractor allows you to move it without damage.

 

Doug.

[squonk 39,135]

Since @pullstart is convalescing with a bad wing, thought I would grease the wheels on the " Little Trailer That Could" He hates squeaky things apparently. Sorry not greasing the rocker! 

[rjg854 10,797]

Hopefully, Mike you can figure out where the big boy trailer is squeaking as long as you have that grease out. 

[squonk 39,135]

Saving that for a cool day! 

[squonk 39,135]

Rehabbed a couple of rusty mule drive pulleys with Harbor Fright sanders and new 6203-12-2RS bearings and some of that green Lucas grease.

 

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Harbor Fright

 

Horror Fright !  Scares the crap outta the treasurer every time I go there.  One never knows what's gonna follow me home!

[Tuneup 1,416]

Harbor Freight - why don't they throw tractor showers or the like. I'd just sit in an aisle - pick any one - with a beer all day.

 

In tractor news, my 516H, Henrietta, was running poorly and could barely idle. She is so sensitive to air filter changes. I had just changed the filter and foam cover so the added flow leaned it out. That circuit affects most of the RPM range, surprisingly. 1/2 a turn and she's sweet again. Of course, you can't just get a screwdriver in there before removing several pieces. I do love this tractor but she needs constant dotage.

[Wheel Horse 3D 3,651]

Got all the pivots upgraded, along with some temp shackles. Ill be on the lookout for a more U shape and wide enough to go to both sides.

[ebinmaine 63,505]

33 minutes ago, Wheel Horse 3D said:

. Ill be on the lookout

Fire 🔥🔥 up ya forge!!

[Wheel Horse 3D 3,651]

29 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Fire 🔥🔥 up ya forge!!

Not a bad idea, I could even give them a 90 or 60 to lay on the top better.

[Bailey855 165]

The kids helping me get the 1045 right. Slowly but surly it’s coming along.