What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

[Pullstart 59,824]

Moved “Duke” around and swept underneath, then cleaned up some unused tools.  The loader frame is mostly complete.  Now it’s time to focus on hydraulics.  There’s a pile of steel tubing, old and new hoses, old and new valves, and cylinders torn apart needing new o-rings.

 

 

[D_Mac 8,235]

3 minutes ago, pullstart said:

If you were to get it running with the Briggs, but keep things un-hacked and include the Kohler, it would likely bring more coin than selling it not running.  That’s just my 

What if I am a " hacker " ??

[Pullstart 59,824]

Just now, D_Mac said:

What if I am a " hacker " ??

 

Then I’d suggest pulling that belt guard off with the Kohler and figure something else out for the Briggs.  That, or temporarily install the Briggs for testing and demonstration of the hydro and keep it in the sale.

[squonk 38,980]

I wouldn't put anything on it than another Kohler. Never liked the look of an 800 Special with the Briggs. Plus a recoil starter in stead of key start.

[Gregor 4,838]

That Kohler isn't dead.

"We can rebuild him. Make him stronger, better, faster. We have the technology"

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

On 4/6/2021 at 9:54 AM, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Got some parts yesterday, going back together:

 

 

 

Some really funny looking Apples  on that tree!

 

[Tractorhead 8,612]

1 minute ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

 

Some really funny looking Apples  on that tree!

 

 

 

Scarry how your apples turns out this year..

must be a special sort of.

did you taste‘em😂

 

[squonk 38,980]

Put a shine to HHHOOOWWWAAARRDDD!!!  #5 today. 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

2 hours ago, Tractorhead said:

Scarry how your apples turns out this year..

must be a special sort of.

did you taste‘em

 

Those are "Early Horse" apples!

 

I can STILL taste them!  Hours later!

[953 nut 51,893]

6 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

 

Some really funny looking Apples  on that tree!

 

I knew that apples were a natural source of B Complex Vitamins and Probiotics but yours appear to be high in iron too.           

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

How to 'fix' this?

 

I was thinking to run some beads with the welder and file down.  Doesn't need to be perfectly round all the way around, just take up some of the slop on the rear anti-scalp rollers.

 

BUT, the wire that I have now is 'Single Pass' so I don't think I can build it up.  Maybe I should get a spool of multi-pass wire?  Will I be able to build up with that?

 

I also want to be careful with the C clip slots so I'll probably stay away from the ends.

 

Any other thoughts / suggestions?

 

[Pullstart 59,824]

1 hour ago, Jeff-C175 said:

How to 'fix' this?

 

I was thinking to run some beads with the welder and file down.  Doesn't need to be perfectly round all the way around, just take up some of the slop on the rear anti-scalp rollers.

 

BUT, the wire that I have now is 'Single Pass' so I don't think I can build it up.  Maybe I should get a spool of multi-pass wire?  Will I be able to build up with that?

 

I also want to be careful with the C clip slots so I'll probably stay away from the ends.

 

Any other thoughts / suggestions?

 

Maybe cut the welds and replace the whole 3/4” rod?

[8ntruck 6,399]

36 minutes ago, pullstart said:

Maybe cut the welds and replace the whole 3/4” rod?

Make the replacement rods a little longer, drilled for cotter pins and retain the rollers with cotter pins and washers?

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

10 hours ago, pullstart said:

Maybe cut the welds and replace the whole 3/4” rod?

 

9 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

Make the replacement rods a little longer, drilled for cotter pins and retain the rollers with cotter pins and washers?

 

Rod is 1/2" but yeah, that appears to be 'do-able'.

 

Cotter pins could potentially be a problem getting snagged on stuff, but maybe not.  Could also thread them and use a nyloc nut I suppose.

 

I'm going to experiment with running a bead though, to play with my toy welder just to see how much I can build it up with one pass.  Probably ought to experiment with scrap first!

 

 

Edited April 9, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Roger R 434]

How to 'fix' this?

Just completed a similar repair.  McMaster Carr has an amazing assortment of shoulder bolts.  Found an exact match in grade 8. Cut off the old ones and welded the replacements on with some minor modifications to the heads.  Use as high strength rod / wire as is available. Secured wheels with locking nuts with neoprene/rubber washers backed up with exact fit steel flat washers to keep out as much dirt as possible to avoid further wear.  Should be better than the original.  

[TonyToro 1,034]

8 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

 

Rod is 1/2" but yeah, that appears to be 'do-able'.

 

Cotter pins could potentially be a problem getting snagged on stuff, but maybe not.  Could also thread them and use a nyloc nut I suppose.

 

I'm going to experiment with running a bead though, to play with my toy welder just to see how much I can build it up with one pass.

I would say your wire would be fine.. your not looking for strength. Run a bead..grind well and repass.

[ebinmaine 63,272]

@D_Mac

What EXACTLY makes you think that engine is shot?

[953 nut 51,893]

11 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

How to 'fix' this?

 

I was thinking to run some beads with the welder and file down.  Doesn't need to be perfectly round all the way around, just take up some of the slop on the rear anti-scalp rollers.

 

BUT, the wire that I have now is 'Single Pass' so I don't think I can build it up.  Maybe I should get a spool of multi-pass wire?  Will I be able to build up with that?

 

I also want to be careful with the C clip slots so I'll probably stay away from the ends.

 

Any other thoughts / suggestions?

 

Think I would build it up with brazing,                      

[Gregor 4,838]

25 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

@D_Mac

What EXACTLY makes you think that engine is shot?

  What does it do?  What doesn't it do?

Edited April 9, 2021 by Gregor

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

28 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Think I would build it up with brazing,

 

Seconds before I scrolled down and saw your suggestion, the same thought came to me!

 

I guess I was too focused on looking for an excuse to play with my new 'toy' welder.  (It really does look like a toy!  My wife wandered out to the shop after I unpacked it and said... "OH! I thought you were buying a REAL welder!"   )

 

But yeah... exactly what I'm gonna try first!  Thank you!

 

[953 nut 51,893]

6 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

"OH! I thought you were buying a REAL welder!"   )

She probably thought you got one like the one in the background, Lincoln 250 wire-matic.

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

like the one in the background

 

I've been cruising the on-line sale sites looking for a machine I can use with shielding gas...  gasless flux core is OK for quick repairs and small jobs but shielding gas is the way to go I believe.

Edited April 9, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[D_Mac 8,235]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

@D_Mac

What EXACTLY makes you think that engine is shot?

When I spin it with my hand I do not feel a compression stroke. Previous owner told me it was knocking when last was running 25 years ago. When I jumped it to try and start it I heard a noise. Not sure the noise was coming from the engine. I keep saying I am not a mechanic. I am good at making them look nice, not so good at making them run nice. I bought it for the deck and to use as parts. I feel its to good to use as a parts machine. I asked before if it was a good idea to engine swap with  Briggs or predator engine. Most of you say kohler or leave it. So I will leave it..... for now.

[Gregor 4,838]

9 minutes ago, D_Mac said:

When I jumped it to try and start it I heard a noise. Not sure the noise was coming from the engine.

At least pull the head off, then spin it, and see what there is to see. You can't hurt by doing that, and it may tell you a lot.

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

7 hours ago, TonyToro said:

I would say your wire would be fine..

 

Most people that comment on the HF wire give it negative reviews though.  It's E71T-GS which is a 'general' classification that is more or less meaningless, and the " S " means 'single pass' only.

 

I have tried going back and touching up some of my welds and it's nigh impossible with this stuff.

 

The circled part of this patch repair is case in point.  It wasn't great so I tried to re-do it.  It got worse.  I should have ground it down and started over.  

 

It was extremely difficult to get that bead due to the fact that I could not get the proper angle to run the bead, being down in the corner and all.  I couldn't 'see' it, had to work more or less blind.

 

 

I believe a true multi-pass wire would have allowed me to add to the existing weld rather than making a holy mess of it like that.

My welding skills are sub-par at this point anyway!  

 

That corner was all busted up.  The bottom lip was broken and metal hanging.  I got it this way and have been using it like that for MANY years.  Got the welder and decided to fix it.

In spite of the crappy welds, it's WAY strong now!  There was no possible way that I could have made this worse.  Should have taken 'before' pictures too!  

Edited April 9, 2021 by Jeff-C175