What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

[Lee1977 7,432]

5 minutes ago, D_Mac said:

@AMC RULES Curious to know what kind of paint you are using. In the past I have always used Rust-oleum and been satisfied with the results. This time I tried Majic Paint from Tractor Supply and hate it. Anyone else tried that paint? Takes forever to dry and I got a lot of " orange peel" look to it. Guess I will go back to the Rust-oleum unless I find something better.

The Tractor Supply here has Rus-oleum Tractor Paint in all the Flavors. I haven't bough any IH Red. but did buy some Ford BlueTo paint a disk and plow. I wire brushed it then put on a coat of Agriguard to cover the rust and then painted with the Ford Blue covered good.

[WHNJ701 4,167]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

In a spray can Rust-Oleum 2X is about the best you can do. Covers well. Lays out nice. 

Only thing is it takes several weeks to cure. (Not dry. Cure. )

 

Good metal prep, good primer (use Rust-Oleum), the 2x spray paint and good weather it will work fine, as Eric says it needs to cure, I have done several tractors with 2x and have no issues with scratches or chipping.  It's not high grade auto paint, but it's good enough for what I do

[WHNJ701 4,167]

8 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

@AMC RULES

Craig is there any particular reason you choose Eastwood clear instead of using the Rust-Oleum? Just curious.

I am not a fan Rust-Oleum clear, for small parts yes, for large parts no, I have had it leave dry marks on larger parts, anymore I just spray the clear on the foot pedals 

[WHNJ701 4,167]

56 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

Thoughts on using this for patina on original parts? 

With my 701 and a my Sears s12, I scuffed and waxed it with Johnson's paste wax,  then every no and then I wipe it wipe it down with drain oil on hot day in the sun and let it cool, this method kinda of controls the finish rather than "sealing" it with clear coat