What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

[WHX?? 57,270]

So I offered to get this franken driving for Brett Esse of Portage Show proprietor fortune and fame. He offered to pay me for the work, which I refused, and I had to explain to him the difference between a hobby and a job. 

Actually is a cute little tractor and runs fairly decent. Started out life as a 656 with a K181 repo. Floor boards added but nicely done.

Problem is the tranny is locked up solid and all the diesel and kerosene in the world is not going to help. @Achto sold him an off the shelf spare tranny to put in it to get it driving and ready to be sold at the show. 

Pics of the adventure. 

 

 

What flush fluid looks like after a month of setting. I probably should have drained the water out first. 

 

 

Rite of passage my @$$.  Puller best xmass present ever @Achto 

 

 

 

 

[SylvanLakeWH 31,659]

[Handy Don 16,879]

14 hours ago, Desko said:

Maybe I’m wrong in thinking but there’s shims underneath the big gear that I can take out to tighten them up a bit? 

Yep, there are shims in two places in the reduction steering. One set to bring the big gear on the intermediate shaft closer to the steering shaft gear. Another brings the lower steering shaft’s fan gear closer to the intermediate shaft’s bevel gear. 

While you’re in there, look closely for excess play in the socket that holds the steering wheel shaft--it has a grease zerk that is routinely ignored and results extra wear. 

[squonk 47,215]

Phase 2 of the 2 piece seat project.

 

[Blaine 123]

Adjusted the governor arm on the shaft so the governor is functioning now. 
 

 Ran to Ace Hardware for a 1/2”x39” belt and a longer 7/16” x 3” grade 5 bolt that was needed to mount the 6908 drive pulley on the gear drive deck.

 

 I also grabbed a heavy spring that had similar specs as the 5185 spring in the RL-366 mower parts diagram. However the spring had an extra length hook on one end, which I figured was a bonus as i could shorten it to the length needed. 
 

 Thanks to @Horseoholic for dimensions, i made a 5385 link from bar stock that goes between the spring and the idler. 
 

 In the RL-367 destructions manual it says to attach the spring to the 7th hole in the frame. On this Raider, the 7th hole is the front hole of the tower, looking at picture in the RL-367 manual, the hole that the spring is anchored to is not there on my Raider. I made a tab 1-1/2” long with a hole to attach the entire length of the Ace spring to MY 7th hole. 
 

 Since the Raider has footboards, the link and spring are hidden behind it. I had to trim the front footboard bolt 1/4” because it interfered with the link where it comes through on the back side, but it all works well. The belt keeper on the idler doubles as a boot guard. 

 

 The shimmed drive pulley spins true and freely. If i’m thinking correctly, i may try moving the throttle spring down one hole at the governor so the governor allows a little more throttle up the hill. Seemed to be dropping a bit too much rpm before the governor takes over. 
 

 I picked the deck up at the Big Show. I only pulled the gear covers off to have a peak, but i didn’t disassemble anything. Some axial play in the cross shaft, but i’ve run much worse. The right blade shaft woodruff needs replacing, not sheared but i can tell it’s worn pretty bad from the slop. Both blade shafts have some radial play, hoping the shafts aren’t worn too bad. Just need to finish out the season and i’ll replace all of the bearings before next year. 
 

 Loaded it up with grease. It mowed, but it looked really skippy. I shut it down and checked. Sure enough, the right blade was on the left and the left was on the right. This is the second gear drive deck i bought like that. 
 

 It cuts perfectly now with the blades on their correct sides. Need to order a rectifier yet and some trans seals. Brakes barely work at all on these old 3/6spds… especially backwards, on a hill, when the brake drum and band are saturated with gear lube. 
 

 

[ebinmaine 79,463]

5 hours ago, Blaine said:

Brakes barely work at all on these old 3/6spds… 

 

This is true

 

5 hours ago, Blaine said:

especially backwards,

 

Also true 

 

5 hours ago, Blaine said:

on a hill,

 

More truth

 

5 hours ago, Blaine said:

when the brake drum and band are saturated with gear lube. 

 

Added truth.  

 

 

Exponentially decreasing brake power.  

 

Niiiiice.....

 

[pfrederi 20,819]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

 

This is true

 

 

Also true 

 

 

More truth

 

 

Added truth.  

 

 

Exponentially decreasing brake power.  

 

Niiiiice.....

 

 

Wheel Horses were designed to work ...not stop and sit around....

[ebinmaine 79,463]

9 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

 

Wheel Horses were designed to work ...not stop and sit around....

 

That is a valid point sir

[Handy Don 16,879]

8 hours ago, Blaine said:

when the brake drum and band are saturated with gear lube. 

I recommend replacing the brake lining with one from @rmaynard. They are a solid material with great friction. 

The brake is still never gonna be a WH strong point, but you’ll be impressed and a tad safer. 

[Lane Ranger 12,023]

On 5/3/2020 at 6:13 PM, Razorback said:

I was going to use the C-160  to till the garden spot in preparation for some planting later this week. Unfortunately, it decided to rain just enough to squash that idea. So, I spent the afternoon in the shed. I removed the mower deck from the C-160 and cleaned it up real good. I even took the wheels off of the trailing edge of the deck, cleaned up the wheels and the axles, grease them good and put them back on. The under side of the deck got cleaned good, too. Stood the deck in the corner, then changed to oil in the C-160. Spent the rest of the time doing some general cleaning on it. 
 

A very nice, relaxing afternoon!

No actually that "patina" tractor came from Rodney Burger.  He took it to the LeSeuer , Minnesota Swap Meet in April several years ago.

 

 

The hood was painted purple.  My brother David Ralph bought it and it set unused for several years -a waiting some attention.

 

Craig Hearne told me how to paint a tractor with "new patina".   I did not think you could do it but it worked real well.

 

You take Rustoleum red primer, flat black and and red you want (I use Rustoleum Regal red) and lightly spray the three at different intervals until you have a "new patina" finish.   And, yes I was skeptical but it worked great. 

[Ed Kennell 46,445]

19 minutes ago, Lane Ranger said:

 

You take Rustoleum red primer, flat black and and red you want (I use Rustoleum Regal red) and lightly spray the three at different intervals until you have a "new patina" finish.   And, yes I was skeptical but it work

I have used this technique  to  create a matching patina on sheet metal that required some welding  repairs.

[Sparky-(Admin) 25,817]

  C-81 is still in the garage getting stuff taken care of (867 comes in next). 
  The front attach-a-matic was missing the lower bar thingy. It came with one for me to install but it was super crusty. Luckily I had one in stock that was less crusty. 
  Then swapped out the 22x7.50’s on the rear for the correct 23x8.50’s. Again these tires/wheels were stacked up in my shed, it’s great to have spares!  
  Much better look 
  

 

 

 

 

 

 

[MainelyWheelhorse 2,773]

Today I got a couple things done. After mowing the Fire Station’s, my lawn and weedwacking both, I got working on small stuff.

First, the C -141’s steering wheel was missing the center cap. So I made one up with a scrap of 1/8 inch galvanized sheetmetal. With a big washer for a spacer, a deck screw, and some RTV silicone, voila, it’s covered up now.

 

I also removed the brass adjustment collar, that was under the plastic knob, when it was on the 42” RD mule drive, before I had it.  I was getting tired of using vice grips to spin the adjustment rod to tighten the belt. I’ll tackle the replacement tomorrow. I have to also look at the deck too as it’s shredding the PTO belt.

 

Hopefully, more progress tomorrow.

[Blaine 123]

I noticed the pedal has a second hole. This should give me more braking power. I’ll tinker with it this weekend. 
 

 

[Handy Don 16,879]

13 minutes ago, Blaine said:

I noticed the pedal has a second hole. This should give me more braking power. I’ll tinker with it this weekend. 

Shorter throw, higher leverage. Needs closer tolerance of the adjustment at the brake band. 

 

Understand that locking the brake does not necessarily lock the wheels--it locks the bull gear of the differential.

In practice, if either of the rear wheels loses traction while braking the tractor can continue to move with the wheel having traction turning in the direction of travel and the other wheel turning in the opposite direction!

I once experienced this most alarmingly on a decent downslope. Fortunately, I could steer to safety. 

Edited 6 hours ago by Handy Don

[Blaine 123]

2 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Shorter throw, higher leverage. Needs closer tolerance of the adjustment at the brake band. 

 

i think you meant greater leverage at the expense of longer travel. As for the differential unwinding in opposite directions, I’ve experienced that also, but the Raider has the infamous LSD, which I’m pretty sure isn’t effective any longer on this unit.