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Ed Kennell

What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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lynnmor
22 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

s     I was looking at Jims washers Lynn.

 

 

Sorry about that, it is hard to identify the players without a program.

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Sparky
4 hours ago, WHX?? said:

 

All depends on the hardware store to find them. I lucked out and found one that had them in all lengths but yes not full threads past 1 1/2. 

 

What's your theory with the star washers? I used thick flat washers to get them to seat flush. 

 

I like those spacers Mike ... source? 

 

 
Needed 2” full thread, not available at stores but McMaster Carr had em and shipped me 10. Star washers?? Not sure the were needed but I installed em anyway. They were cheap, unlike the bolts.

  And the spacers, they were sitting on a guys table for sale at a tractor show and my son grabbed em. No brand name on them that I could find. 

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Blue Chips
7 hours ago, Racinbob said:

I'm thinking the lock washers are more for getting around that little taper on the bolt. I've countersank them in the past. :)

 

Agreed. For a threaded-hole situation like that, I would usually (as you mentioned) countersink the hole a bit to provide clearance for the little radius (fillet) between the underside of the bolt head and the bolt shank. Of course a washer would also do the trick.

 

 

Edited by Blue Chips
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8ntruck

I wrassaled the 48" deck i picked up last weekend out of my truck, strapped on the 2 wheel hand cart and wheeled it through the trails that I cut in the snow with the tiny Toro two stroke snow blower to the tractor shed.  That will let Morgan, the 14-8; and Clyde, the C-195 make friends with it while it is waiting for a refresh sometime this spring.

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Sparky

  Mounted up these cast weights I bought last year. Seemed heavier than all my usual 50 pounders, turns out they’re 70 pounds apiece! 
  Came with hardware that’ll need an inch or so cut off. 
 

IMG_6063.jpeg

 

IMG_6064.jpeg

 

IMG_6062.jpeg

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CD Long Jr
39 minutes ago, Sparky said:

  Mounted up these cast weights I bought last year. Seemed heavier than all my usual 50 pounders, turns out they’re 70 pounds apiece! 
  Came with hardware that’ll need an inch or so cut off. 
 

IMG_6063.jpeg

 

IMG_6064.jpeg

 

IMG_6062.jpeg

8 inch carriage bolts were perfect for my 55 lb Sears weights. Now to find round Wheel Horse decals.

Wheel weights 3.jpg

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lynnmor
9 minutes ago, CD Long Jr said:

8 inch carriage bolts were perfect for my 55 lb Sears weights. Now to find round Wheel Horse decals.

Wheel weights 3.jpg

 

Here ya go.

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Blue Chips

Oops. Ran into a bit of a glitch in painting my 522xi fender. It looked reasonably good until I noticed some areas where the paint wrinkled and/or orange-peeled a bit. I had allowed extra drying/curing time for the primer to make up for the relatively low temperatures in the shop, but I guess it wasn't quite enough time. I'll be more patient this time and wait at least a week before I wet sand the rough spots, plus at least an additional week before applying a second application. I'll set the shop temperature a few degrees warmer as well. On the plus side, the next coat(s) should be even smoother, and there's no big rush, since there are several other parts of the tractor that I can work on in the meantime. 

 

rear-fender-first-coat.thumb.jpg.39d58deba68e4d49071ab22156a149bb.jpg

 

If it had been a bigger paint job, I might have used 2K primer and paint. Maybe some other time.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Blue Chips

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JoeM
1 hour ago, Blue Chips said:

I might have used 2K primer and paint. Maybe some other time

I like the 2k primer that gassing problem goes away.

 

my bad and this one

image.png.33a1967974bc201372299a9a97cf713e.png

 

I don't know if you ever tried this on single stage paint, I like putting two coats of clear enamel on as two final coat of color. Apply 10 minutes or so after the last color coat. It can be buffed and adds UV protection too. 

Only available in spray cans tho.

image.png.fe8bfeaa82a9248bc62f3c2226f97034.png

 

image.png.b859beeef4ec5309225b500845221173.png

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