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Ed Kennell

What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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ebinmaine
33 minutes ago, Bar Nuthin said:

Decided ol' Johnny needed spruced up a bit

 

Some folks like flames on certain vehicles. Some don't. 

Me personal-like. It depends on the mo-chine. 

 

This'n...

Yessir.  I  like it.  

 

IMHO those wheels need to be a solid dish like the old steelies or whatever. I do like the chrome wheels on a tractor.  

 

 

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sqrlgtr

@Bar Nuthin parking to close to wood pile not a good idea :ychain:

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CD Long Jr

 Well let's see, I put up the WD40 & got PB Blaster.

 I aired the tires up to get her off the trailer. All the valve stems are on the inside. Is that normal or has someone rotate them for a wider stance? Only 1 has a 90-degree adapter on the valve stem.

 Rolled her off the trailer and applied the brakes. No brakes. thank God for 96-gallon trash cans or I might have ended up in the shed. Parking brake doesn't work, (lock), either.

 Removed deck & mule drive. Finaly figured out and unfroze the quick attach pins. I think she's sat a heck of a long time. Mule drive adjuster is frozen & the black knob just turns so I assume the roll pin the holds it in place is rotted. I had to remove the clips & pry the arms off the adjuster to get the belt loose. The bar on the PTO won't move front to rear or up & down enough to get the belt off. Do I remove the big nut on the mule to get the belt out?

 Busted the rubber cover on the dash side of the choke cable, but now it's easier to get PB down the cable to try to free it. 

 Got all the deck pulleys and deck spindles to turn. I assume it's a 42-inch deck. 

 Otherwise, everything' just peachy.

Deck serial number.jpg

Mule drive locked up..jpg

Remove deck belt.jpg

Take mule drive apart.jpg

Unloaded 1-2-26.jpg

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peter lena

@Bar Nuthin  do you have to fire suit up , like top fuel  , to run that ????  looks very good , pete

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Handy Don
20 minutes ago, CD Long Jr said:

 Well let's see, I put up the WD40 & got PB Blaster. Liquid Wrench and Kroil are MUCH better

 

  All the valve stems are on the inside. Is that normal or has someone rotate them for a wider stance? Normal (valve stem likely changed at come point, maybe tubes)

 

 Rolled her off the trailer and applied the brakes. No brakesLots going on there

 

20 minutes ago, CD Long Jr said:

Remove deck belt.jpg

There should be a removable pin securing the clevis on the outer bail to the stud in the center of the PTO. Get that out, disengage the PTO (the PTO actuator rod must move fore and aft freely--get that first) and wiggle the bail away from the PTO bell

 

20 minutes ago, CD Long Jr said:

Take mule drive apart.jpg 

Only if the pulley bearings indicate need of repair/replace does this need to come off.  I’d just put some good penetrant (Liquid Wrench or Kroil) every couple of days and leave it.

 

 

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CD Long Jr

Thanks for the great info. I found a video on installing the deck & see I need to remove the clevis. How do I get the belt out of the mule drive, it's as far as I can pull it?

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Ed Kennell
21 minutes ago, CD Long Jr said:

 I need to remove the clevis.       Where is this clevis?     How do I get the belt out of the mule drive, it's as far as I can pull it? Remove the big nut to get the guard off.   There are different width spacers on the shaft, don't get them mixed up when you reassemble.    

 

Glad to see your posts on this project, but may I suggest you start a new post on your project.     Information tends to get lost in this long general thread and a dedicated thread may make it easier for us to follow your project.

 

Oh and  :text-welcomeconfetti:to the :rs:

Edited by Ed Kennell
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ebinmaine
26 minutes ago, Blue Chips said:

irresistible to the local bears:

 

As THE local Bear. Can confirm. 

 

 

So listen here Mr Chips.... when's the real V8 getting wedged in there?

 

 

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sqrlgtr
57 minutes ago, Blue Chips said:

I thought I'd see what my GT18 would look like if it had a small V8 with a four-barrel, headers, mags, and racing slicks.

 

Still the wrong color :teasing-poke:

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Blue Chips
42 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

As THE local Bear. Can confirm. 

So listen here Mr Chips.... when's the real V8 getting wedged in there?

 

Don't tempt me. I've been known to do crazy things like that. :lol:

 

11 minutes ago, sqrlgtr said:

Still the wrong color :teasing-poke:

 

Perhaps the New Holland GT series could be considered the 'blue sheep' of the 5xi family, but hopefully still welcome at Wheel Horse family gatherings. :lol: 

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kpinnc
3 hours ago, CD Long Jr said:

All the valve stems are on the inside. Is that normal or has someone rotate them for a wider stance? 

 

Most Wheel Horses have the valve stems on the inside so as not to interfere with wheel weights or hubcaps. 

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ebinmaine
10 minutes ago, Blue Chips said:

 

Don't tempt me. I've been known to do crazy things like that. :lol:

 

I can say I've given thought more than once to having a Ford 300 inline six on a tractor frame. 

Why?

Who cares??!!?

 

 

 

 

 

 

10 minutes ago, Blue Chips said:

 

Perhaps the New Holland GT series could be considered the 'blue sheep' of the 5xi family, but hopefully still welcome at Wheel Horse family gatherings. :lol: 

 

I can't speak for @JCM but if we do a gathering here you're absolutely welcome. 

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kpinnc
13 minutes ago, Blue Chips said:

Perhaps the New Holland GT series could be considered the 'blue sheep' of the 5xi family, but hopefully still welcome at Wheel Horse family gatherings. :lol: 

 

Just a 5xi in different paint. I like the blue ones!

 

My tractors dislike green garden tractors, but they won't bother blue ones. :rolleyes:

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Blue Chips
12 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I can say I've given thought more than once to having a Ford 300 inline six on a tractor frame. 

Why?

Who cares??!!?

 

I have a 1953 Ford NAA (Golden Jubilee) tractor, and if I didn't have so many other projects going on, I'd consider doing a Ford flathead V8 conversion. There have been a number of kits available over the years for that conversion, starting, I believe, with the Funk Aircraft Company conversion kit in the 1940s for the 9N, 2N, 8N, and later the NAA and others. It would be a fun project, and who doesn't like overpowered tractors? :lol:

 

And I've always had a soft spot for Ford/Mercury flathead V8s. 

 

 

Edited by Blue Chips
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ML3

Doing some mid season inspection/maint on the 702. Relocated the exhaust because it was originally turned down on the snowblower controls. Used what I had in garage for that project. Adjusted the governor also. Found a few loose bolts too. 

 

The 654 is next for inspection.  All the Tecumseh haters can say what they want but that tractor is the most reliable of my entire collection.  

20260103_113936.jpg

20260103_113948.jpg

20260103_113941.jpg

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ebinmaine

Used my new to me vintage drill press to make a pulley key.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Red Stallion
On 1/1/2026 at 12:47 PM, lynnmor said:

 

There are a number of companies that make valve seats, you will need someone experienced in installing the seats and they will know what is available.   The block will need to be trued on the diameter and made flat on the bottom of the seat area.  Then a seat will need to be fitted so that it has at least .0055" press fit.  In order to install the seat the block will be heated (I use a heat gun) and the seat cooled (I use denatured alcohol and dry ice).  I also have an installation tool to hold the seat while driving it in.  The installation tool should be cooled along with the seat so that the seat will stay as cold as possible.  You need to work fast because the seat is quickly being heated by the block, with luck the seat will go in with one light tap of a mallet.  Onan had tools in their service kit but they are nearly impossible to find, I made my own.  The last tool you should have is a staking tool that has an angle that upsets a small amount of aluminum over the edge of the seat, the seat should have a small chamfered corner to accept the upset.  Standard valve grinding procedures are then done to have the proper seat diameters and angles.  The Onan Service Manual is what you need.

I have been reading your other posts and discussion about what is involved, and I fear that I maybe researching for a while to find someone here that is suitably skilled and experienced.

 

I've put it down for a little while as I mull over having to do an engine swap instead.

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CD Long Jr

Lots of runnin' today so it was a walk by, spray, hammer kinda day. I've been known to be abusive with hammers, so I got my little one. :D 

walk, spray, hammer.jpg

Edited by CD Long Jr
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ebinmaine
2 minutes ago, CD Long Jr said:

Lots of runnin' todays so it was a walk by, spray, hammer kinda day. I'm been known to be abusive with hammers, so I got mt little one. :D 

 

 

Liquid Wrench.   :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

 

Baby hammah. 

Niiiiice! 

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kpinnc
14 minutes ago, CD Long Jr said:

I've been known to be abusive with hammers, so I got my little one.

 

So THAT is what those are for! :rolleyes:

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sqrlgtr

Started transaxle change after pressure washing all the garden dust off the 12hp no name. Going to let her drain overnight. New shifter boot,  Engine oil and brake drum seal next on the list.:D.

DFB58E73-5B48-4147-A770-D00CD2C8E378.jpeg

E802E344-08CB-409F-A030-EF3ECFAA8522.jpeg

ADCE2027-E8CB-4A62-A1ED-8037A928ECF7.jpeg

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lynnmor
41 minutes ago, sqrlgtr said:

Started transaxle change after pressure washing all the garden dust off the 12hp no name. Going to let her drain overnight. New shifter boot,  Engine oil and brake drum seal next on the list.:D.

DFB58E73-5B48-4147-A770-D00CD2C8E378.jpeg

 

A good flush or two with diesel fuel would be in order.

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Lee1977
3 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

So THAT is what those are for! :rolleyes:

No, it's how hard you swing it. I know a fellow who was driving 16P nails with a 10 oz. hammer into yellow pine. I wasn't doing any better with a 20 oz. I could tell what we were building, but no one would believe it with out pictures.

Edited by Lee1977
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