Bar Nuthin 1,729 #25051 Posted Tuesday at 10:35 PM 4 hours ago, Handy Don said: I’d look for the clutch tensioner/idler gone whack-a-doodle. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 7,439 #25052 Posted Thursday at 02:38 PM What most of us do it throw it away and just use the clutch spring on the left side. I usually keep a spare ( 108035 clutch spring ) in my parts drawer. It attaches to the the clutch bracket and the hole in the brace web on the axle housing. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 15,010 #25053 Posted Thursday at 05:51 PM 3 hours ago, Lee1977 said: What most of us do it throw it away and just use the clutch spring on the left side. I usually keep a spare ( 108035 clutch spring ) in my parts drawer. It attaches to the the clutch bracket and the hole in the brace web on the axle housing. And then it can take a bit of repetition to adjust your muscle memory for releasing the clutch! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,547 #25054 Posted Thursday at 06:55 PM @Handy Don you can probably relate t this , seen more rusted / bound saposed to be , movement spots on horses , wheelies , and related violent engagement , should not be a brag point . in the same engagement zone as a screaming , pto lever . and related pulley drag , definitely a corrective problem . if they are addressed correctly , the problems go away , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 15,010 #25055 Posted Thursday at 08:01 PM (edited) 1 hour ago, peter lena said: you can probably relate to this On my first meeting @wallfish, he lent me an RJ to tool around the Big Show. He emphatically cautioned me about its touchy clutch and willingness to wheelie. Having driven standard shift vehicles since before having a driver’s license, I paid heed and never had the front wheels more than a couple inches off the ground. Predictability and muscle memory are essential for clutching. We more mechanically-inclined and capable members do have to keep in mind that things mechanical and electrical can intimidate some of those who join the forum looking for an assist. They often need very specific and detailed answers along with reassurance. Edited Thursday at 08:31 PM by Handy Don 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 16,112 #25056 Posted yesterday at 02:34 AM I got several things I need to get finished, but my Bronco has been marking it's territory in my garage. One axle seal was leaking quite a bit, and I had not seen it because of how it was previously parked. Guess I should get it out more, right? As is usually the case, a leaky axle seal left alone long enough made the hub removal super easy. Didn't even need my puller for it (lucky since I couldn't find the darn thing). Anyway the hub came right off with some wiggles. Made a couple small dings in the metal face of the new seals because it was crazy tight but it shouldn't affect it. The axle and bearing seems fine. A couple hours after and no leaks yet. I'll try to get it out over the holidays and see for sure, but so far so good. 9 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Stallion 129 #25057 Posted yesterday at 08:04 AM I'm back on the Wheelhorse wagon now that winter has passed. Finished up the last of my painting, and started putting it all back together... But now I can't remember how it all goes together! Anyone got a picture of their seat pan and seat assembly? I don't think my springs are right. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blue Chips 359 #25058 Posted yesterday at 03:19 PM The plastic front ‘bumper’ (for lack of a better term) of my 522xi had a chunk broken out of it and several cracks radiating from that spot. Fortunately, I had the missing piece, which made the repair a little easier. After thoroughly cleaning and degreasing the area around the breakage, I glued the piece back in and cemented the cracks with a water-thin plastic solvent cement that had good capillary action to flow into the cracks. Here’s the back view of the breakage area after applying a few applications of the cement. It seemed to work very well. Even though the cracks were completely welded shut, I shifted into my usual over-engineering mode and decided to reinforce the back of the repair with a few layers of thin fiberglass cloth. I wanted a molecular bond between the fiberglass cloth and the plastic, rather than mechanical, so instead of something like epoxy or polyester resin, I used a thickened plastic cement that exhibited some solvent action on the plastic. Here's the back of the bumper with at least three layers of fiberglass cloth adhered with the plastic solvent cement and with a coat of red paint over it. This part of the bumper won't be visible. Here's the front after gluing, sanding, and a coat of clear “Adhesion Promoter” primer: And the damaged area after the first coat of Regal Red paint (two more coats to go). The color looks a bit off because the photo was taken in the shade. Note: The red bumper is made of PC-PET plastic (a blend of polycarbonate and polyethylene terephthalate). The black bumpers on similar models (such as my New Holland GT18 / 518xi clone) are made of ABS plastic. However, the cements that I used were actually designed to be used with other types of plastic, such as acrylic or PVC, but they still had a solvent action on the bumper and seemed (to me) to work fine. I guess time will tell. 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shynon 7,500 #25059 Posted yesterday at 03:52 PM Installed 3d printed chute retainers and motor cover on the XI 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 43,597 #25060 Posted yesterday at 04:35 PM 8 hours ago, Red Stallion said: I'm back on the Wheelhorse wagon now that winter has passed. Finished up the last of my painting, and started putting it all back together... But now I can't remember how it all goes together! Anyone got a picture of their seat pan and seat assembly? I don't think my springs are right. That looks correct to me. I added a chunk of rubber to stiffen each spring. I also add a piece of rubber for the springs to rest on. Make sure you leave a hole for the seat switch. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 7,439 #25061 Posted 22 hours ago 12 hours ago, Red Stallion said: I'm back on the Wheelhorse wagon now that winter has passed. Finished up the last of my painting, and started putting it all back together... But now I can't remember how it all goes together! Anyone got a picture of their seat pan and seat assembly? I don't think my springs are right. I see you have a 520-H and the seat is adjustable. The seat springs will bolt up eater way. You can move the seat closer or farther back by witch way they are mounted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Stallion 129 #25062 Posted 21 hours ago Thanks guys! I was thinking the rubber trick as I have some left over from the foot wells. The paint is so soft that the springs will chew through it within the first 100m of me bouncing on it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 53,139 #25063 Posted 18 hours ago (edited) A snow shoe needed repairing and I need to practice my welding. Laid piece over it and buzzed away. Didn’t get a pic when done ... . Actually didn't do the worst considering my welding skills suck. Edited 18 hours ago by WHX?? 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 15,010 #25064 Posted 18 hours ago 10 minutes ago, WHX?? said: Is there a reason why it wasn’t mounted to wear perpendicular to the mounting holes? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 18,754 #25065 Posted 17 hours ago 48 minutes ago, WHX?? said: A snow shoe needed repairing That, or you coulda just used that thin part to set your points! LOL You got your money's worth outta that one 1 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 53,139 #25066 Posted 5 hours ago (edited) 12 hours ago, Handy Don said: Is there a reason why it wasn’t mounted to wear perpendicular to the mounting holes? Yep ... it seems no matter how tight those bolts are they always seem to be they always move. In the heat of the battle the blower gets dropped a little hard and that's what does it. Then they get covered with snow & ice & go unnoticed until spring thaw. Along with the scraper blade they are meant to wear I guess. Actually a good thing to advance my welding skills. PO had them like this but the adjustability goes out the window. Edited 5 hours ago by WHX?? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,181 #25067 Posted 5 hours ago 29 minutes ago, WHX?? said: Yep ... it seems no matter how tight those bolts are they always seem to be they always move. I Apparently it is a common problem, every time I check mine they need a readjustment. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,656 #25068 Posted 3 hours ago 1 hour ago, WHX?? said: Yep ... it seems no matter how tight those bolts are they always seem to be they always move. In the heat of the battle the blower gets dropped a little hard and that's what does it. Then they get covered with snow & ice & go unnoticed until spring thaw. Along with the scraper blade they are meant to wear I guess. Actually a good thing to advance my welding skills. PO had them like this but the adjustability goes out the window. This is one example of where Wheel Horse employees downgraded their quality in my opinion. The old steel wheel snowblower setup was a better idea. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 43,597 #25069 Posted 3 hours ago 13 minutes ago, Lane Ranger said: The old steel wheel snowblower setup was a better idea. When I still had blowers., I also liked the old style with wheels. Made the blowers so easy to move around when off the tractor 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites