OldWorkHorse 3,002 #20801 Posted February 5 Worked on the 1257HEAVY today and installed the belt guide. Installed the belt guard for final fitment seems to work as intended! Getting closer to done! 2 14 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrianKoch 307 #20802 Posted February 5 (edited) Gentlemen, Stumped again. How do you reckon this rear wheel comes off the hub assembly? It only slides about 1/2” on the axle then stops. It looks like a collar on the wheel might need to be removed. Thoughts? Edited February 5 by BrianKoch Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 36,024 #20803 Posted February 5 Thats a collet tapered hub. The hub should release if you separate the two parts. There may be tapped holes in the inside flange that are used to jack the hub apart. If not, pry bars may do it. The wheel must just be stuck on the hub. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 10,787 #20804 Posted February 5 (edited) @BrianKoch Put the lug nuts back in, but don't tighten them. Leave them loose enough that the wheel won't fall off, drive the tractor around in circles in both directions and hopefully it will break free of the hub. I've also smacked the tire, not the rim with a sledge hammer and got one off the hub that way. Edited February 5 by rjg854 Add 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 6,849 #20805 Posted February 5 Can you screw a bolt or set screw in the tapped holes within the blue circles? There may be 3 of them. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,735 #20806 Posted February 6 11 hours ago, Ed Kennell said: The wheel must just be stuck on the hub. Ed you figure someone used one of those A-Z taper hubs and put it on backward? That wheel might be stuck on the weld??? Or a homemade one that has a tight wheel / bore fit?? Here is a couple pics of the one I used. The wheel is made to fit onto the tapper. I know one thing the shaft on this xi was worn pretty good and the key shot. The kid runs this machine and runs it like she stole it. Loaded tires and chains, has hung right in there. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 36,024 #20807 Posted February 6 4 hours ago, JoeM said: Or a homemade one that has a tight wheel / bore fit?? That's what it looks like to me Joe. It looks like the wheel center is actually bulged out where it was jammed on a too big hub. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 36,024 #20808 Posted February 6 That hub looks like it could be a modified Dodge Taper Lock Shaft Coupling. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,735 #20809 Posted February 6 I know they sell these but you still have to have an outer ring to weld on so the wheel can bolt up. Plus, an 1 1/8 taper center. Looking at the time and material to make it, there is not much savings compared to buying one. Could have been something done before taper hubs were available. That Dodge coupler brings back memories. The ones where your told something is wrong. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrianKoch 307 #20810 Posted February 6 Gentlemen, As always, thank you for sharing your knowledge and suggestions…a few good blows to the tire with a hammer and it broke loose. My next order of business is chasing a trans oil leak… 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 39,112 #20811 Posted February 6 You have to be careful pounding on the wheel. You can break the snap ring holding the axle in the differential. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,980 #20812 Posted February 7 7 hours ago, squonk said: You have to be careful pounding on the wheel. You can break the snap ring holding the axle in the differential. Or worse- I have a 8 speed that the PO stripped the end of the splines right off when the snap ring didn't break. I kinda think that took some sledgehammer activity! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,442 #20813 Posted February 7 11 hours ago, squonk said: You have to be careful pounding on the wheel. You can break the snap ring holding the axle in the differential. 4 hours ago, kpinnc said: Or worse- I have a 8 speed that the PO stripped the end of the splines right off when the snap ring didn't break. I kinda think that took some sledgehammer activity! Agreed. In fact I've never seen a broken snap ring but I've seen several axle shafts with wide or even stripped grooves. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,283 #20814 Posted February 7 4 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Agreed. In fact I've never seen a broken snap ring but I've seen several axle shafts with wide or even stripped grooves. I believe that the wide grooves are from the axle moving back and forth. I have seen mine have some play in the axle movement. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,442 #20815 Posted February 7 2 minutes ago, Lee1977 said: I believe that the wide grooves are from the axle moving back and forth. I have seen mine have some play in the axle movement. I can see the logic in that Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrianKoch 307 #20816 Posted February 9 (edited) Gentlemen, Today I continued the transmission oil change on the ‘68 Charger 12. Had to get creative and jam a screwdriver through the filter to spin it off. Anyway, it appears the motion control linkage drips a bit. Few questions: 1. How difficult is the fix? 2. Would it be a good idea to switch to motor oil for this old transmission or stick with ATF? 3. How do I give the transmission a good flush? I think I see sediment/sludge inside. Edited February 9 by BrianKoch Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 10,787 #20817 Posted February 9 I take it you don't own a oil filter wrench 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,442 #20818 Posted February 9 6 minutes ago, BrianKoch said: Gentlemen, Today I continued the transmission oil change on the ‘68 Charger 12. Had to get creative and jam a screwdriver through the filter to spin it off. Anyway, it appears the motion control linkage drips a bit. How difficult is the fix? The shaft has a roll pin through it. With the CORRECT roll pin punch they're usually OK to remove. The seal is easily changed. I'm not sure if the shaft would have a propensity to fall or be pushed into the transmission. I may even have a seal here for that. 6 minutes ago, BrianKoch said: Also, would it be a good idea to switch to motor oil for this old transmission or stick with ATF? If it's got red ATF in there, that's what you should refill with. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,192 #20819 Posted February 9 Stick with ATF run in 5 out of 6 Sunstrands. Seal is easy to replace-but it is below fluid level so do it when you are changing fluid 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrianKoch 307 #20820 Posted February 9 (edited) 33 minutes ago, rjg854 said: I take it you don't own a oil filter wrench Yeah…the strap wrench I dug out of the box was worn out and I have a dedicated socket style for the truck. Half of mechanic-ing is improvisation, right?! Edited February 9 by BrianKoch 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrianKoch 307 #20821 Posted February 9 1 minute ago, pfrederi said: Stick with ATF run in 5 out of 6 Sunstrands. Seal is easy to replace-but it is below fluid level so do it when you are changing fluid Roger Roger Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrianKoch 307 #20822 Posted February 9 14 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: The shaft has a roll pin through it. With the CORRECT roll pin punch they're usually OK to remove. The seal is easily changed. I'm not sure if the shaft would have a propensity to fall or be pushed into the transmission. I may even have a seal here for that. If it's got red ATF in there, that's what you should refill with. “easily changed” that’s what I like to hear! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,192 #20823 Posted February 9 Seal is WH 5959 or CR 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 47,010 #20824 Posted February 10 (edited) Striped down a 181 for a shelf motor or for sale. What I think to be a service motor for off a 875 or 6 due to the color. Have not run the spec number yet. PTO pulley gonna be a stubborn one. Heat wrench is next. Edited February 10 by WHX?? 10 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,442 #20825 Posted February 10 Got this plow stabilizer from our old friend @WVHillbilly520H a few years ago. Today I made up a bracket to mount to the plow frame. This'll be set on my dedicated snow ow tractor. 1975 C160 Automatic. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
