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Ed Kennell

What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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TonyToro
23 hours ago, squonk said:

Correct length and end  spark plug cables I have. Just need to know how long you want it. Points to coil is just 14 ga. wire with ring ends. You snip part of the ring end at the points to get it under the screw or use a spade end.

 

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I need a wire. 
 Do you have extra for sale?

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TonyToro

We started to weld up the hub on the commando!

 

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squonk
8 minutes ago, TonyToro said:

I need a wire. 
 Do you have extra for sale?

Yes. I just need to know how long you want it. $12 with shipping

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Horse Newbie
9 hours ago, Gregor said:

I did some un-modifying this morning. Casper is back to being good ole Casper. No more snow blowers, winches, or push button steering.

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I think all that extra weight was kind-a hampering his flying anyway,

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and the Lawn Boy snow blowers are happy just being snow blowers again.20220325_074902.jpg.5a46274cb43c7de59b9deb576a03b3c8.jpg

That pile is exactly what I would end up with if I try to modify… that’s why things work better if I just leave stuff alone…:lol:

 

Although, I don’t see a thing wrong with modifications, just not when I do it.

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Gregor
14 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

That pile is exactly what I would end up with if I try to modify… that’s why things work better if I just leave stuff alone…:lol:

 

Although, I don’t see a thing wrong with modifications, just not when I do it.

The fun is in the trying, even if it never works. :thumbs:

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Pullstart

Realized I’m 8 pages whine on this thread, and had Mrs. P help me move the non-driving hilo.  She spun the tires on Chloe the 953 but we got it rolling eventually!

 

 

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OutdoorEnvy

Well changed the engine and gear box oils today for the 312.  I did a gear box flush last year when I got it and when draining this years gear oil out it had water in it, again!  I kept it inside the whole year, never used in rain or anything.  Must be the condensation thing happening.  I wasn't expecting it though so glad I did it again.  Looks to just be an annual need at least to change it. 

 

Also took off the snow plow and put the deck back on.  She's ready to go for spring/summer duties!

 

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ebinmaine
19 minutes ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

when draining this years gear oil out it had water in it, again!  I kept it inside the whole year, never used in rain or anything.  Must be the condensation thing happening

How much of it was clear water and how much of it was muddy gear oil?

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JoeM

Might want to do a crackle test on that oil. A good go or no go test. We did those in the field with a steel plate and a torch. Sometimes we thought it was water but just oil that had been subjected to aeration.

 

The crackle test is a standard laboratory test to detect the presence of water in lubricating oil. A drop of oil is placed on a hot plate that has been heated to approximately 400° F. The sample then bubbles, spits, crackles or pops when moisture is present.

 

 

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WHX??

Did you go with the 6 3/4 tube length Joe? Pics once you get them on a tractor! Can you use the centers with some good blanks for a custom offset? 

 

Rebuilt a Squonky carb that the inlet that would not quit leaking by. Good thing it was easy on/off. 

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Edited by WHX??
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OutdoorEnvy
2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

How much of it was clear water and how much of it was muddy gear oil?

 

Not much water just thought it was there by the discoloration.  Viscosity still felt fine.  It was full synthetic gear oil I used. 

 

8 minutes ago, JoeM said:

Might want to do a crackle test on that oil. A good go or no go test. We did those in the field with a steel plate and a torch. Sometimes we thought it was water but just oil that had been subjected to aeration.

 

The crackle test is a standard laboratory test to detect the presence of water in lubricating oil. A drop of oil is placed on a hot plate that has been heated to approximately 400° F. The sample then bubbles, spits, crackles or pops when moisture is present.

 

 

 

 

When I did a flush last year I did 1 qt marine 90w gear oil, had an old extra laying around, and a 1 qt gasoline.  Drove it for half in hour and went through all gears and ranges.  Then drained over night lifted up.  Then filled with full synthetic gear oil.  That residue look may be from the gas from the flush a year ago? 

 

I did replace the shift boot last year as well so that was covered.  I'll watch it more this next year and maybe do it twice a year if it always looks like that. 

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JoeM
12 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Did you go with the 6 3/4 tube length

Actually, 6 1/4, one set of rims is the standard WH offset and the other is 3/4". With the spacing of 1 inch between rims, (I like the way yours looked) so I tightened them up a bit. These will be going on the WH Truck replacing the 10.50's for the show this year. They will stick out past the fender and look cool. I hope!

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peter lena

@WHX?? do you see it ?  opportunity for a 5/16 vertical fuel check valve just before carb entry , EVIL ENERGY  has them on line . have them on my 3  magnum engines , instant starts , no fuel drain back , only if you want to , have a good one , pete

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peter lena

@OutdoorEnvy  from the looks of your stuff , would guess that your shift boot is good ? I regularly check my trans oil , drop it on any sign of discoloration / moisture , along with a road drive flush out routine. noting your rear hitch lower slide pin, regularly give that a lubrication shot , to stop rust . also added a thin piece of anti vibration pad under , front end under trans to snug that up and, slotted hose on vertical  ends on back of trans  to snug that up and make it stop the shucking movement . only a suggestion . glad you changed that oil . pete

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OutdoorEnvy
16 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@OutdoorEnvy  from the looks of your stuff , would guess that your shift boot is good ? I regularly check my trans oil , drop it on any sign of discoloration / moisture , along with a road drive flush out routine. noting your rear hitch lower slide pin, regularly give that a lubrication shot , to stop rust . also added a thin piece of anti vibration pad under , front end under trans to snug that up and, slotted hose on vertical  ends on back of trans  to snug that up and make it stop the shucking movement . only a suggestion . glad you changed that oil . pete

Yes shift boot was replaced a year ago when I got it.  Thanks for the tips on the other things! 

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WHX??
1 hour ago, JoeM said:

Actually, 6 1/4,

We just don't want to hear how you cut them off twice and still too short! :ychain:

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peter lena

@WHX??   when installed vertically , arrow up to carb , that valve looks like it was made for that set up , just fits into the gap on side of carb . I also build / assemble the installation before  installing it , makes it easier , pete

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peter lena

@WHX??  scary details on the pre build set up , measure it up for close location and fit , I use those  dark green spring clamps , also , use just a light film of dielectric grease on each hose to filter slide point , lets you bottom out the hose fit , then squeeze and slide on the clamps , hose and 5/16 check valve are same size, lubricant makes for a very smooth / easy slide on fit . pre built this and its a very easy installation, leave the 2 final squeeze clamps on the hose , down from slide on point , once the hose is on carb /  fuel pump , squeeze clamps on into place . your done !  start up leak check , retest for start . imagine that , no more fuel drain back , it works , I  use clear vinyl  hose ,pete   

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Lane Ranger
2 hours ago, peter lena said:

@WHX?? do you see it ?  opportunity for a 5/16 vertical fuel check valve just before carb entry , EVIL ENERGY  has them on line . have them on my 3  magnum engines , instant starts , no fuel drain back , only if you want to , have a good one , pete


pete :  I bought two of these today and going to try them out on your recommendation!  Looks like an easy install. 
 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TT4T16M/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_66C3TS7J7R7BSD2VKPY7?psc=1

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peter lena

@Lane Ranger  yes they are an easy install,  after I  did the first one , in place , I  changed that over to putting it together away from the tight spot , think about it , hoses clamped on valve , last 2 clamps in place to slide on ends , lite hose lubricant , install and test run .  flow arrow on valve facing up , easy pete 

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Wheelhorse#1

Hooked up the lawn airator that I purchased on the cheap a couple weeks ago.

Ran it around the back 40 a few times.I was skeptical,it did the job.The grass and weeds should appreciate it,the worms,not so much.

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Edited by Wheelhorse#1
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