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314-H snapping drive belts

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I have gone thru 3 belts now and am lost.  The pulleys are in line from engine to transmission, the pulley surfaces look good with no bad spots, and I put a brand new geunine toro tensioner pulley on as the old one had bad bearings.  It seems the belt is a tad loose but otherwise I cannot figure out why it eats belts.  

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Can you see any wear marks or cuts anywhere other than at the break? Were there any unusual noises prior to failure? 

What brand of belt were you using?

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1 minute ago, rmaynard said:

Can you see any wear marks or cuts anywhere other than at the break? Were there any unusual noises prior to failure? 

What brand of belt were you using?

:text-yeahthat:And in 20 years I've only replaced the drive belt on my 520H twice since new, both times with O.E. Toro,  when replacing the pulley did you notice any play in the arm to frame mount? Seems to be an issue with the newer models but I only have 750 hrs on the one I bought new vs 300 hrs on the used one, Jeff.

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Check the spring on the opposite side of the transmission. I replaced mind and help solve the problem. Also there is a tab (/) on the arm that holds the pulley. Bent the tab down do there less space for the belt to jump off the pulley. Solved my problem on my 310-8.

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4 hours ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

Check the spring on the opposite side of the transmission. I replaced mind and help solve the problem. Also there is a tab (/) on the arm that holds the pulley. Bent the tab down do there less space for the belt to jump off the pulley. Solved my problem on my 310-8.

Jim, he has a hydro.

The idler that you replaced has a shoulder spacer that rides in the slot on the tensioner , is it moving smoothly? Are the engine and transaxle/ hydro pulleys in good condition?

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I just realized that after rereading.  I sure would check out the pulleys. Does the Hydro have tabs to keep the belt from jumping over the end of the pulley ?

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Are you using a belt designed to bend backwards over a flat idler?

Transmission drive belt 108501 - (HB/5L x 81.50" or 5/8" x 81.5")

 

Garry

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Yes using belt 108501 and it is labaled wheel horse.  I replaced idler pulley and it is mint,  Engine pulley is nice and smooth, tranny pully is nice and smooth,

 

There are two bent L brackets that help guide the belt, and with the belt in motion, it will rub every now and then,  I am hesitent to remove them as they were placed there for a reason.  I verified on my other 314-h these are factory and it too has rub marks but does not eat belts.

 

 

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How about showing us some pictures of the busted belts.

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The belt is riding ON the guide bar below the belt and not under it, right?

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:text-yeahthat:

 

Also on some models there was flange near the bottom of the belt guard (ran most the length of it)..  Make sure you belt is on top of it...been there done that

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That is correct.  I did put on wrong 2 years ago and learned from it in 30 seconds.  The last 3 have been put on correctly.

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I'm baffled, can you post a picture of the damaged belt as installed? Perhaps one of us can spot something we aren't thinking of.

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So, something that hasn't been discussed... how many hours between breakage?

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So up to about 1040 hours, you had no problems with belts snapping, then from that time on you've broken 3. So the question is, what is different now? What have you been doing in the last 15 to 20 operating hours that may be affecting your belts? :scratchead:

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Something has to be cutting the belt or cheap belts. I saw a member on his suped up puller with a RIDICULOUS amount of weight, out pull big farm tractors with a belt driven Wheel Horse. At one time he even bent the frame because of great traction and so much weight up front. Think it was on concrete. The belt was fine so to snap 3 of them on a normal worker, i'm guessing something is cutting into it somewhere.

I've stressed drive belts to the max with a backhoe loader tractor and it kills the 16 hp engine before there's any problem with the belt. Did that twice before

 

:wwp:

 

Edited by wallfish
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I will try to get some pics of the belts, and the video of it flapping up and down.  I think it is flapping and rubbing those brackets.  Its about the only thing I can think of.  

 

Nothing has changed at all.  And some of those hrs were accidential key on.  Not very many though.

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Take a look at this thread from April of this past year:

 

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Could the little guide fingers around the engine pulley be hitting the belt? Or belt routed around one of them?

Just kind of thinking out loud

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Is it snapping,shredding or burning? 20 years ago one of my main jobs was selling belts. Even cheapie belts hardly ever fail unless some outside force is acting upon them

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     :text-yeahthat: what Mike says is true. Drive belts are made to be tortured, and if you are using genuine Toro/Wheel Horse brand of the correct width and length, you might see them last for the life of the tractor. I have an 857 that the original owner said is still running it's original drive belt. So, assuming that your pulley alignment is good, and there is no damage to either, that all guides are in place and the belt is routed correctly within those guides, your idler is correct and not binding with the correct spring tension, there is no binding in the transmission input shaft, then my only conclusion is defective belts. 

If it's possible for you to raise the rear end of the tractor, remove the belt cover, and carefully observe the belt while engaged and running, you may see something amiss. However, if all the above is correct, I doubt you will see anything. If that's is the case, and you have been using genuine Toro belts, try a Kevlar belt from your local auto parts store.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by rmaynard
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On 1/11/2018 at 1:00 PM, 953 nut said:

I'm baffled, can you post a picture of the damaged belt as installed? Perhaps one of us can spot something we aren't thinking of.

We have been offering suggestions for four days without seeing the problem area and I for one would appreciate a couple good photos.

:text-worthless:

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