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Simplecity

Raider 12 Old switch to new

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Good Evening All

 

   Merry Christmas

 

      New member with first wheel horse.

 

     I recently acquired a 1969 Raider 12 that I plan to use for an 'Estate Tractor' (basically a tractor for the wife to use for gardening and whatever). It sole purpose is haul a a yard cart around.  Anyway, not being one to leave things alone, I'm tweaking various things. I finally got it to charge correctly (upgraded the 10AMP  to a 15 AMP stator/flywheel). I'm now working on the rest of the electrical system. This tractor has a three wire ignition switch (Battery/Starter/ Accessory). The Battery and Starter are 4 gage cables that place a lot of strain (in my opinion) on the light duty looking terminals.  One has been repaired.  Apparently, this is an early production tractor as the owners manuals that I have found all show a multi terminal switch.  I understand that I need to add a solenoid (3 wire) when the switch is upgraded.

 

    My question is: How to I wire the switch? If I'm not mistaken, The 'B' terminal would be from the battery side of the solenoid.

                                                                                                     The 'S' terminal would be to the small post on the solenoid

                                                                                                     The 'R' terminal would be to the center terminal of the rectifier

                                                                                                     The 'A' terminal would be to the lights.

                                                                                                     The 'M' terminal is the one that has me confused.

  The tractor is powered by a 12hp Kohler (with coil and points). Does the "M' terminal go the coil? Did Wheel horse make a connector that plugs into the switch, or are all these wired individually?

 

  On a related note, is there any accessory dash panels that one could mount a volt gauge to and have it look stock?  Is there a dash cluster from another tractor that will work? The dash is rather small with no room for any additions except maybe a small rectangular hour meter next to the light switch.

 

  Anyway, thanks to all who respond.

 

  Simplecity

 

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If you have  a coil  and points You have the wrong ignition switch.  You need one with an "I" terminal instead of a an "M" terminal.  The "I" terminal would go  to the + terminal of the coil.

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Thanks for the info.

I was looking at the owners manual for a '69 Raider 12 and that was the only switch shown. I've looked at other posts and it appears that the early '70's Charger models (1-0410/1-0401) shown a switch that utilizes a coil,

 

Thanks again

Simplecity

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31 minutes ago, Simplecity said:

connector that plugs into the switch,

:WRS:             You can get one on Ebay for # 10.00 with free shipping.

s-l1600.jpg

Just look under Key Switch Wire Harness.

103990 is a good switch for battery ignition systems. 

s-l1600.jpg

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:WRS: Simple

I take it you have a Simplicity or three? Good man, I have a penchant for some of the older ones myself but don't  tell the fellas here that! :lol:

Be warned we do like our :text-coolphotos: here cause we like to see :wh: of any shape but it does help us help you fix your tractor. That said put up a pic of that tag just under the dash for a PI (positive identification) and we'll make sure you get the correct manuals. Maybe a pic of the wiring situation and swich. One thing we know for sure is you never know what a PO might have done that is not tractor correct.

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You said you upgraded 10 amp to 15. i have done that ion the past, but I have a question. How did you know it was a 10 amp?  The only Kohlers I have seen on WH's were breakerless ignition, and I don't remember when I changed the first one, but before 1980.  I changed ign. switch & nothing else, but added points, cover, gasket, push-rod coil, condenser, & two wires. I ask because there are no common parts, as flywheel's & stators are different. in each set-up, as well as the rectifier. (I'm still learning) Maybe there was a change I lost out on.     ?????

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Good Evening

 

    This is the sad but true story of how I figured out my stator was a 10AMP.

 

     As this model (Raider 12) does not have any gauges, the first thing I did once it started was to check the battery voltage. With the tractor running I got 12,2 to 12.5. (Not Good). Some research on the internet told me that the stator voltage should be around 30 VAC at roughly 1/2 throttle. Mine was 15VAC. As this was my first stator equipped tractor (my other tractor is a 3416H Simplicity-equipped with a starter/generator) I was clueless about these.

 

    There is a young fellow in town that works on all makes/models so I picked his brain for possible culprits. He told me to bring him the stator and flywheel and he would do some testing. I did and the result was inconclusive. The stator checked out as far an continuity goes. No visible hot spots or damage. The only issue that was that it originally had three wires, but one had been cut off. The flywheel magnets (which are flush mounted) also checked out, They seemed weak compared to by 16hp magneto Briggs, but I was told that is how they are. The only suggestion was to try another stator. The online Kohler parts manual did not list on for my model (K301 D038515 Spec# 47147C). However threw his sources he found me a part # . I went on the on-line auction that starts with 'E' and found a NOS unit. Rather salty in price, but it was the only one in captivity. I bought it and when it arrived it also had three wires. The third wire we deduced was for the 'electronic ignition'. As mine had points, I can only guess that at some time in its life a PO must have had problems and converted back to points. I kept the third wire intact. I just put some shrink tubing over it to insulate it. I installed everything. fired it up and got a whopping 15VAC. at the stator leads. I had no clue and neither did the fellow in town. The only part left was the flywheel.  

 

   Before I drop any more cash into this, I wanted to find a KNOWLEDGEABLE person about Kohler engines. Not far from me is a older gent that runs what I can best describe as a lawn mower wrecking yard. He has every make and model, all in rows waiting to surrender whatever parts are needed. I talked to him and he told me all the steps that I had already performed. He too did not have a clue. I was about to go home when his helper said "What about Carl? It turns out that about 1/2 mile away is a fellow named Carl that has worked on Wheel Horse tractors and Kohler motors all his life. They told me where he lives and I took the short drive there.

 

   I found his house and shop (Wheel Horse red). Went into the shop to find Carl, sitting at his desk enjoying and afternoon soda. The shop was warm as the wood heater was doing its job. I introduced myself and proceeded to ask some questions. Carl asked me what I had. When I answered, he described what the tractor was equipped with (10AMP). He was correct except that mine had points. Has said that someone converted it at one point and that he had done a lot of them. I asked him if flywheel magnets ever lost strength. He sais he had never seen one. He then told me that the best thing to do was to convert it to the 15AMP.  The 10AMP system apparently wasn't that good. He started walking down the rows of his shop  (40X60 pole barn chocked full of tractors and parts). He stopped midway down an aisle reached down and produced the flywheel. "Here" he said "This is part of it". He continued walking to the end of the row, went through a door, found a beat-up aluminum ladder propped it up against some shelving that ran the width of the building. He went up the ladder a couple of steps, rummaged around on the shelf and came up with the matching stator. I asked him how much he said that $70 would do it. I asked him if he wanted any of the 10AMP stuff that I had, He declined.

 

  As we were walking back I asked him where he got all these parts. He said that he would buy out inventories of dealers that were either going out of business of just wanted to get rid on the old inventory. He rebuilds Kohler engines with genuine Kohler parts. To rebuild mine (K301) would cost between 350 to 400 including machine work. I thought that was very reasonable, so I'm waiting  for his call  when he finishes the four he is working on now.   

 

  So, not only did I purchase a Wheel Horse, I met a very knowledgeable fellow that is friendly and isn't out to break your bank account.

 

  If anyone is in the market for a 10AMP flywheel and stator, let me know.......

 

  Simplecity

Edited by Simplecity
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:woohoo:             Sounds like you hit the jackpot when you found out about Carl.

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I did what you are talking about to my 69 Raider 12 was probably in the late seventies. I do not remember the switch number, but got one of the heavy duty switches for one with 

the battery ignition. Clipped the wire that ran to the solid state unit. Have never checked the output of the stator always keeps the battery charged. Your staitor is probably bad.

You can wire it and use the switch above but you will have to add a solenoid.Wiring is simple on that 68.

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