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Logan

'73 automatic 12 brakes

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So i have a '73 12 automatic. The brake only takes it out of gear. Is this how they worked? Or are my brakes worn out. I have been searching everywhere and haven't found much because 1973 is a hard year to track or find things for wheel horses. Need help 

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:WRS:           You have a Sundstrand transmission and if the linkage is properly adjusted the transmission will bring the tractor to a stop when the brake pedal is applied. There are no other brakes.

Sundstrand Transmission Wheel-a-Matic 1969.pdf

Sunstrand Hydro (part 1).pdf

Sunstrand Hydro (part 2).pdf

Sunstrand Hydro (part 3).pdf

Sunstrand Hydro (part 4).pdf

Edited by 953 nut
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Yeah, what he said ----

 

The early D's (and yours is VERY early) didnt have a brake, as such. The pedal simply moves the lever into the neutral position, and really it does a heck of a job!! I have a later model D that has an actual brake, but I cant ever remember using it, I simply pull back on the handle.

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Hello Logan,

I also have a 73 12 Automatic, unfortunately for you I'm new at all of this, but if your tractor with the engine running and the brake lever in the down position the tractor should stop when the foot brake is pressed or the transmission forward/reverse lever is in neutral just as 953 nut says. The transmission is actually stopping the tractor. However if your talking about a brake when the park/brake lever is in the up position and the tractor is on a hill then there is a pawl in the transmission that is to engage in a gear to act as a brake or the same as the park gear in a car. If your tractor is like mine that pawl is broken off inside the transmission (at least that's what I think) and I have no parking brake. I've learned for now to park on the level or carry a small wheel chuck! :text-lol:

Gary 

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here is the 'parking brake' (parking pawl') and it is inside the trans case.  When you pull UP on the engagement lever, this pawl engages a gear that STOPS all  motion in the gears...preventing the tractor from moving at all.  Howver,  DO NOT EVER pull up the engagement lever when the tractor is in motion.  You will destroy internal gears and...whats worse... chip off fragments that get into the hyro pump that runis brass internal parts....whjich leads to loss of power.  

PARK PAWL.jpg

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Thanks Dave,

Mine was broken long before I got it. Some day I might get around to fixing it or having it fixed, but for now I'll stick with the cheap repair  LEVEL GROUND or WHEEL CHUCK!:D

 

Edited by paxz71usa Gary
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Thanks for all the help. Mine does roll when the lever is pulled up. So i belive it is worn out or broken off. I havent run it more than about four hours. It is in pieces and the engine was machined, i havent put it back together yet. I may look into the transmission housing and see what’s up. Once again, thanks for all the help from everyone. 

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Keep me informed on the transmission. Then I'll know what to look forward to some day.

Gary

 

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'73 Auto is a great Horse! You'll never regret keeping that Stallion well groomed. :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

WH-Moons.jpg.472b6ad93f1560560d1f20d1a3fa3a8e.jpg

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I have it's big brother , love it's power and simplicity -

 

5a2400fa39499_16_Auto_in_driveway_21.jpg.9c55680a62fe131581e1e9726da29cb9.jpg

 

Sarge

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Some nice looking machines! I will probably end up doing a full restoration on mine and keep it around. It is my first one so it definitely will be with me for a while. Next parts that i have to get are a new shroud for the engine, mine is rusted out. Pop riveted to help the air flow properly. One other question, do any of you guys have an electric clutch system on your machines? Mine has one and im not sure if it is set up right, or even working at all haha. 

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I have an electric clutch driving the hydraulic pump on my loader. Flip the switch and id locks up, draws about 10 amps.

5a27355f1f86e_GT-14withFEL002.JPG.5b8ca8e5e6b5241b5680667383654c91.JPG

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Yeap, I went through all the issues with the electric clutch and finally got mine to work. Guy I bought it from told me it would work sometime if you kicked it just right! :text-lol:Had to buy and install a used coil. The system itself is fairly simple as far as operation. If you want to check it quickly with out the tractor running turn the key to the accessory position and flip the PTO/CLUTCH switch up or to the on position. You should hear a fairly loud click if the clutch engages. If not make sure your battery is fully changed. the clutch requires a good battery and charging system. If the battery is up to snuff, there should be an electrical connection at the clutch to allow removal of the belt. See if you have 12 volts at this connector. If not you have an issue with the switches, wiring or there is also a fuse that could be blown. If you do have 12 volt power at the connector, then it is likely that you have a coil issue as I did. If that's the case than there are good people on this forum that will point you in the right direction to find the used parts that you'll most likely need. They sure helped me out with parts and advice. 

PS. I even found a place that would wind a new coil for me and install it in my old coil housing, but they wanted as much to do it as I paid for the tractor. So needless to say I was happy for the used parts.

Gary

PSS..............As for Tankman and Sarge's machines, only in my dreams would mine ever look like that!!!:text-coolphotos:

Edited by paxz71usa
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I a have to use an electric clutch on on of my horses but they are not my favorite device.  Here are some thoughts on them and how you can fix your if needed.

 

 

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Is there any way to convert them to a manual pto clutch? I am trying to have everything working so that it can be used for a blower or somehing of the sort if i want. Also if i do sell it, i will be able to make a bit more dollazz

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You can convert it to a manual clutch with a few parts and a drill. The '60s clutch arrangement used a mechanical clutch that is operated by a rod that applies tension to it. There is a stand-off bolted to the engine, the tension rod the clutch itself and a bracket attached to the steering tower. Your engine should have a 1 1/8" crank shaft that the PTO will be mounted on. The ones from a 954 or 1054 will attach directly to the crank shaft and others will bolt to the drive pulley so that will need to be obtained too. Call http://a-ztractor.com/ and ask Lincoln, I'd bet he will fix you up.

1965 Wheel Horse 1054-A with 52 inch Sickle Bar Mower

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:text-yeahthat:

 

Especially if you are going to use a snow blower.  The sudden violent engagement of the electric PTO is bad enough in good weather, but with snow/ice build up in the blower it is tough on all the machinery.  The manual lets you engage it slowwwly!!!

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next parts i am looking for are now a headlight assembly and rear wheel weights. thinking of getting ag tires, but maybe not. what size wheel weights do these 12 auto machines take? i have been loking around, mainly searching for the c-120 to find stuff because they are more common. 

 

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Lots of people made 12" wheel weights and they are very interchangeable. A-Z Tractor can probably hook you up with weights and the headlights.

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