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I have a D-180 that broke an axle I have got all new parts and have removed transaxle from machine. The 2 parts I am missing for re assembly are the metal screen with magnet for inside trans and a new gasket from transaxle to pump. I have done some looking and can not find these parts. I have the old screen but the rubber gasket on the end of it has some rot and is apart from the screen. The gasket is still in place but i would feel better putting in a new one before re build. Thanks for your help
1973 18 Automatic for sale. Was restored in mid 90’s by local Toro dealer for previous owner, he then sold to me and was used regularly to mow for about 15 years. Since 2013 it has seen little use. Needs battery, will start and run with a boost. Has original 48” mower deck and 48” plow/dozer blade. Also has 48” snowblower in working condition. Also have single blade furrow plow that works great with the three point hitch. The tractor only has the front PTO but it works great. Hydraulics system works great. Lights work as shown in video.
About the yellow fuel tank. Once they started adding ethanol to the fuel the 30 year old tank started to have issues clogging the screen. I replaced the stock tank with the yellow one. I still have the original and it likely can be cleaned and reinstalled since the tractor was NOT modified for the yellow tank.
Asking $2500 for everything. Located in Morris, CT (north and west of Waterbury CT)
The PO owner installed what I believe to be a non-standard carburetor.
The dash panel shows choke when the lever is at the top of the slot and run when it is at the bottom.
However, I have to do the opposite. When I start I have to have the lever at the bottom of the slot to choke the engine and then move to the top of the slot for run.
What is the correct carburetor for this motor in a 18 automatic? Did the PO install incorrectly? Other than the motor runs perfectly.
Does anybody have a good source for replacement front wheel bearings for a mid to late 1970's D160 wheel horse tractor? There are two push in bearing units (inner and outer) per wheel. I first attempted to replace with standard bearings but quickly found out these are not standard sizes. It's been a while since I check and I don't completely remember, but I think the wheelhorse bearings where something like 1/16" of an inch larger OD than a standard catalog bearing. At the time, I remember finding bearings but they wanted somthing like $100 for each bearing. I was able to located two bearings and did purchase them for a reasonible price, but am still looking for two for completing the set. The part numbe ron the two that I was able to locate is 104396. If anybody has any ideas, I would appreciate.
Fast question ...
Per the IPL for the 6-1141 and 6-1131 54" & 56" blades - how is everyone pinning the rear blade lock arms so they can't unlock the blade ? I've ran into problems with this thing before wanting to unlock itself and drop the blade half off the tractor. It seems when back dragging rough pavement, especially if I back into a snow bank the thing is moving those locks out of position and allowing the frame to drop off. The only reason it stays at least somewhat under the D is the lift arm , but getting it back into position is no fun due to the weight of this thing and especially out in the snow/cold weather. Last time I had to drag the thing back to a clear area so I could wrestle it back into position, lift the frame and lock it again. I did wire them shut for now, but don't trust it and I use it to back drag quite a bit on rough areas I don't want to ram the cutting edge against and risk damaging the rear axle differential or anything else. Mine has been rebuilt with a new cutting edge of 1055HC and the frame is highly beefed up - most of it is now boxed in and the thing has gained nearly 50lbs of steel. It cuts great, almost too good but that random dropping it off is starting to irritate me - need some ideas here...
The smaller 42" and other frames lock from the other direction - so to speak. The brackets are also drilled to accept large hair pin cotters to keep those locks in place - I see no way the bigger blade frame is designed for that, unless I'm missing something ?