Upgrading stator to 20 amp questions

[FatJackDurham 318]

So everyone dreams of having a loader on their tractor right? But there is the building, the hydraulics, the framing and attachment, what a hassle.

 

But it might be easier to use a plow frame, attach a pivot box on the front and use that as a lowlevel bucket, just to move mulch around the yard. Especially if you have GT-14 with a hydraulic to do the lift. All you would need is an electric linear actuator to do the dumping. And, if you have a GT-14, you already have a cigarette lighter to plug it or a winch in when you have it attached.

 

So, a decent linear actuator for this small application would draw about 15 amps under load. I am not sure how many amps my GT-14 stator produces, but I know I can add a 15/20 amp stator to the K321 engine. My question is, if I do that, what else to I need to do to make sure it all works? Is there a different condenser for the sparks? A different solinoid? I different voltage regulator or rectifier?

[953 nut 58,444]

Why not just get a "Johnny Bucket"?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,285]

Here is a parts list. Both the 60125b and 60149a specs show 15 amp stator.

 

[FatJackDurham 318]

3 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Why not just get a "Johnny Bucket"?

 

 

Building one is what I had in mind. I think I can do it cheaper that the $1500 that a Johnny costs.

[953 nut 58,444]

14 minutes ago, FatJackDurham said:

 

Building one is what I had in mind. I think I can do it cheaper that the $1500 that a Johnny costs.

       Probably has been done, may be able find an internet article on it.

[FatJackDurham 318]

3 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Here is a parts list. Both the 60125b and 60149a specs show 15 amp stator.

 

 

Mine is a 6010B, and going by the 6010 spec, if I am reading correctly, it's a 10 amp system, breaker less. There is a 15 amp stator that I could use, and the only other parts I would need would be a rectifier and a trigger lead.

 

Still probably not a good idea....

[FatJackDurham 318]

I see the specific stator for the K321 is unavailable, and people are charging stupid prices for it. The same stator for the K341 engine is much cheaper. I wonder if it would work? The K341 seems to have been identical to the K321 except the cylinder bore and head. Even the shaft is the same, so I wonder if the flywheel and stator parts are the same.....

[cafoose 3,400]

I successfully converted my GT-14 from 10 amp to 15 amp and also converted from electronic ignition to points Here are some threads on how I did it:

 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,285]

12 hours ago, FatJackDurham said:

 

Mine is a 6010B, and going by the 6010 spec, if I am reading correctly, it's a 10 amp system, breaker less. There is a 15 amp stator that I could use, and the only other parts I would need would be a rectifier and a trigger lead.

 

Still probably not a good idea....

 

Spec 6010b is correct for the 1969 and 1970 GT-14's. Toro has incorrectly listed the engine as 60125b and knew that but missed it.

 

Garry

[pfrederi 18,408]

If the linear actuator only draws 15 amps even 20 why change the charging system.  You are not operating the actuator a dump control continually, probably only a small fraction of the time.  Battery will cover draw and then be recharged between uses.  If you have a breakerless system the engine isn't using any other electricity for a ignition system so between uses of the actuator the battery will be getting well charged...unless you are working in the dark with lights on....

[FatJackDurham 318]

1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

If the linear actuator only draws 15 amps even 20 why change the charging system.  You are not operating the actuator a dump control continually, probably only a small fraction of the time.  Battery will cover draw and then be recharged between uses.  If you have a breakerless system the engine isn't using any other electricity for a ignition system so between uses of the actuator the battery will be getting well charged...unless you are working in the dark with lights on....

 

To do that, I would hook directly to the battery, I guess. You don't thing that would still cause an issue? It could work, i guess. I'll price out the steel need for a POC and see if it's worth trying.

13 hours ago, cafoose said:

I successfully converted my GT-14 from 10 amp to 15 amp and also converted from electronic ignition to points Here are some threads on how I did it:

 

 

 

Cool! I'll check that out! I was curious about that. Why did you switch to points, may I ask? To get a tachometer to work? I was thinking of doing it to convert it to fuel injection turbo, merely as a thought experiment. I don't have the skills to really do it.

[cafoose 3,400]

1 hour ago, FatJackDurham said:

Why did you switch to points, may I ask? To get a tachometer to work?

When I got the tractor the wiring was hacked and it didn't run for five years according to the previous owner. I am unfamiliar with the old breakerless ignition and heard that the parts are expensive and hard to find so I found an engine with a broken rod for $50 that had all the parts I needed for the conversion.

[pfrederi 18,408]

Incidentally I do not think Kohler made a 20 amp system for the K series.  10 15 and a rare one 30  which I have only seen on the big  iron twins K482/532.  May be on some singles but not many....

Edited September 7, 2017 by pfrederi

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,360]

@FatJackDurham I use a Linear actuator on my 310--8 to raise and lower my rear hitch. Never had any problem with the electric system since it was installed .