Jump to content
HandCannotErase

Toro 212-5 no electrical power

Recommended Posts

HandCannotErase

Hello everyone. The other day I picked up a 92 Toro 212-5 lawn tractor with no deck non-running for $30 (MN: 32-12O503). The guy I bought it from said the ignition was left on with the headlights on and killed the battery so it should just need a new one. I made attempts to jump start the tractor, it would get power (the headlights would turn on and clutch would click) but wouldn't crank. I tried jumping the solenoid terminals to see if the starter was good (and it does work, tho I couldn't attempt to start the tractor due to the position of the solenoid terminals I couldn't maintain a good connection). But since doing that I've lost all electrical power on the tractor; absolutely nothing turns on, even with a new battery. Did I short something out? Also when I got the tractor I noticed one of the fuses had melted into the fuse block, so I spliced in some new connectors and fuse (as well as replacing the 2 other fuses). I tested the key switch and thats working fine. All my connections are good.

 

I'm really stumped, I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm really not the best at figuring out electrical issues. If it was a mechanical issue I'd have had it running the same day I got it.

Edited by HandCannotErase

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

This should simplify it

Garry

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
HandCannotErase

So I looked over the wiring and found the seat switch wires were cut, so spliced them back together. I also took the solenoid off and inspected the terminals and cables, everything looks okay, so I put it all back together. Now whenever I connect the battery the starter continuously spins (but doesn't engage the engine) until I disconnect the negative battery cable (which will arc when I do that).

What on earth is going on??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut

:WRS:      You may have a bad solenoid. Remove the lead that goes to the engine starter and connect the battery cables, turn the key and see if it closes, check the output with a test light to see if it is working.

1 hour ago, HandCannotErase said:

the starter continuously spins (but doesn't engage the engine)

You will probably find that it isn't getting enough voltage to allow it to go to full speed. Could be the Bendix drive needs to be cleaned up too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

Disconnect the small wires from the solenoid small terminals and see if the starter still wants to run. If it does the solenoid is shorted internally and requires replacement.

 

Garry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
HandCannotErase

So the solenoid was bad and I found a replacement for $20. It arrived today, I installed it, and it's doing the same thing: running the starter when I connect the battery.

 

Somewhere the circuit is being completed without the key being on, but it must not be enough to make the starter engage the engine. Like I said above the ignition switch is fine, I tested it and it's working like it should be. I'm really stumped here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

2 large terminals on the solenoid.

One terminal has a white wire that goes to the battery (+).

The red wire on the other large terminal goes to the starter.

 

2 small wires on the solenoid.

Black wire grounds the solenoid coil.

Purple wire supplies power only with the key in the start position.

If you leave these 2 wires disconnected what happens when you connect the battery cable?

 

Garry

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ohiofarmer

  It could be that the switch is melted together internally and the start circuit does not disengage. Short work to find this out if you are handy with a multimeter or a test light.

 

 You mentioned that a fuse block was melted, so the possibility of something like this increases.Even though you tested the switch, is it possible that the PO put on the wrong switch in his attempt to repair it?

Edited by ohiofarmer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • JoeM
      By JoeM
      Good Toro XI Lift Valve and Cylinder Assy. 
      Hurry this deal won't last! $60 Plus shipping. 
       

       

       

       
       
       
    • Jrodgers04
      By Jrodgers04
      Selling a nice deck for the 5xi line. Starting it at $500 on FB Marketplace, open to offers.
       
      Model Number: 78395
       
      Good shape, ready to put to work. Does not include pulley box.
       
      Recently sold the tractor. Was going to make a coffee table out of it but the wife is not interested.
       
      Overall good operating condition. Cuts well, spindles, pulleys, rollers, and wheels are in good shape. Deck is solid, no rot. Very heavy duty, weighs over 300lbs. The only piece not functional is the install wheel. This does not affect the operation of the deck, just installation/removal.
       
      Located in Beverly, MA. Delivery available for right price.
       
      Video is from a week ago.
      My Movie.mp4
    • rustyedge1
      By rustyedge1
      Need a condenser for engine shown in photos 8 hp Kohler. Any venders carry them on this site ?
      All help appreciated..Have PayPal or can send check..


    • WheelPuke
      By WheelPuke
      I have my 25A fuse blowing every time I put a new one in the slot. The old one was burnt up when I got the tractor put this year. It sat for a year with a dead battery. I stopped using it as much because the transmission is clattering pretty bad when taking off on second or higher. I had to replace the clutch belt a few years ago and couldn't get an OEM. Not sure what is the problem there that's another issue though.
       
      I have checked the wiring and patched the worn spots where it could be grounding out. The fuse blows as soon as there is power to the system with the ignition off. I'm at a loss of what to check for at this point. Any input from someone who has had this issue would be appreciated. I'm not sure what these units are in the photos but do not know how to test them for a failure. They are directly in loop with the battery and the ignition loom looks to run into that 25A fuse.

×
×
  • Create New...