520H Lift Question

[SadieCoonhound 8]

You guys helped me get my engine running fantastic and maybe you can help me with another problem. 

The transmision moves great in forward and reverse. The mower lift is driving me a little insane. When I first start it up the lift will not go up or down until I drive it around for a few minutes and then it seems to operate fine. 

The problem is when I am removing and/or installing the mower deck. It won't lift so I can't attach it because you have to lift it to install it. 

The trouble shooting guide says to check the pressure to the cylinder (I'm a dummy and don't understand what I have to put together gauge wise to check this) and the pressure to the oil filter base. 

Do you think that changing the filter and fluid should be done first to see if it makes a difference before I try other things.

thanks. Coondog 

[squonk 43,939]

I would change the oil first. Napa 1410 filter and Mobil 1 are my favs 

Edited August 4, 2017 by squonk

[SadieCoonhound 8]

Thanks, will do. Any tips on getting the drain plug out?

 

[WHX?? 51,909]

I use Mob 1 10w30 synthetic in both the motor and transmission with no problems. I do run this tractor on extreme cold days tho hence the multi weight.

[WVHillbilly520H 10,376]

21 minutes ago, SadieCoonhound said:

Thanks, will do. Any tips on getting the drain plug out?

 

It can be a bear but on the very bottom of the transaxle/differntial is an "allen" plug 3/16"? or 1/4"? wrench size, it might have some dirt and grime stuck in it that will need to be gotten out of the way before you can see it or get the wrench in it,  it may be a little stubborn but it should come out and the filter is straight forward (BTW I and some others still have high faith in the O.E. TORO hydro filter) if you have time now would be a good chance to pull the seat a fenders a clean around the hydro pump/fins real good(grass clippings/oil seepage equals mess) and I bought 1 of my 520s brand new and have always used 10w30 year round in the engine without issue, easier to keep track of too same engine and hydro, now when refilling it's a slow process if you don't take a bolt out of the top of the housing (near the filler/dipstick tube) or leaving the filter off/loose as it needs to "burp" air out, Jeff.

[SadieCoonhound 8]

Thanks, Hillbilly. I will do that. 

[pfrederi 18,714]

It is very common for Eaton hydros to need a significant warmup  before the hydro lift will operate.  They will move forwards and backward almost immediately, but depending on temperature may take 30 seconds to 2-3 minutes before they will lift.  That is why i no longer use the Eton in the winter.  The sundstrand will pick up the blower or plow  immediately even in the extreme cold so I can move them out side to finish warming up with out suffocating me in the garage/shop.

Edited August 4, 2017 by pfrederi

[SadieCoonhound 8]

Much appreciated 

[SadieCoonhound 8]

Holy smokes. What came out of the hydro. The drained oil is beige and I can only think ti describe it as also milky. I've attached pix. Should I be scared.

thanks

[pfrederi 18,714]

I would go to Walmart and pick up some cheap 10w-30 refill it put on a new filter and run it for just an hour or so (making sure it gets hot).  The drain it again and refill with the quality oil of your choice and another new filter.

[WHX?? 51,909]

I wouldn't be worried too much...Not uncommon to see that, moisture does have a way of getting in these units. You do not have to run synthetic it is more a personal preference. It's believed syn. does better in the cold.

12 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

and run it for just an hour

oh and operate the ilft cylinder several times to help flush it out.

[SadieCoonhound 8]

I guess I will have to do that. Unfortunately I already put thr mobile 1 into it and changed the filter. Tuff luck for me but I agree it needs a flushing. I did notice that while I had in running in the garage (the wheels are off btw) when the lift lever started to work it operated like molasses. I was able to push the cylinder in by hand to help it along and pull it out by hand. Gave it a little goose. Am thinking that I will try that pressure test. I ordered a gauge from napa for 30 bucks. Am thinking bad cylinder? Thanks guys. 

[squonk 43,939]

The synthetic also has a higher shear point when hot as opposed to Dino oil.

[WHX?? 51,909]

Its possible you may have a leaking cylinder. thankfully rebuild kits are a plenty and fairly easy to do.  I would run it awhile and see what happens, If it is still a problem I would have a kit on hand, Lowell @wheelhorseman may have them, and rebuild it. http://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/

[WVHillbilly520H 10,376]

4 hours ago, SadieCoonhound said:

Holy smokes. What came out of the hydro. The drained oil is beige and I can only think ti describe it as also milky. I've attached pix. Should I be scared.

thanks

No not really, below is what came out of one I bought last spring with 236 hrs on it(also the one I pictured above with the oily grass clippings packed into the the hydro pump/fins), just drained refilled and new filter , no problems with drive or lift in the last 50+/- hours, Jeff.