Jump to content
69-Raider-10

R-26 with 5.5hp Tecumseh No Spark

Recommended Posts

69-Raider-10

Hello All. Picked up this little feller here a couple days ago and just got around to wrenching on it last night. I cleaned up the carb, put a new plug in, new oil and fuel, and it doesn't want to fire. Checked the spark and I don't see anything. 

Ran fine 2 years ago the guy said and I have every reason to believe him. I guess I have two questions:

1.) What is on this, magneto? Where can I buy one to replace?

2.) I have a Trailblazer 7 with a 7hp Tecumseh pull Start. Think I can pull that magneto off and use it? (Assuming it is indeed a magneto).

As always, Thanks for the help!!

20170707_201640.jpg

20170707_201630.jpg

20170606_014259.jpg

20170606_014220.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oldredrider

It does have the magneto ignition. Before assuming the mag is bad,  clean the points. They're probably oxidized from setting.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
N3PUY

:text-yeahthat:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
69-Raider-10

Awesome. Thanks guys. I'll let you know how I make out.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
69-Raider-10

By the way, anyone know if we have these in the manual section? I'm not real technologistically inclinated. Thanks again! 

post-98-0-60969400-1432499428.jpg

post-98-0-92209100-1432499415.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
 
gwest_ca

No we do not have those manuals. Any chance you can scan and add them?

 

Garry

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Howie

I think the points and condenser would be the place to start. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
69-Raider-10
2 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

No we do not have those manuals. Any chance you can scan and add them?

 

Garry

I wish Garry. I just saw the pictures of them on a tractor forum while I was researching. I will try and reach out to the fella and ask if I can have a copy. I will certainly scan and email/upload them if I can find them. 

57 minutes ago, Howie said:

I think the points and condenser would be the place to start. 

At the risk of sounding like a water-head, where would the points and condenser be on this? It's definitely not like a k181 or k301 where the points are on the lower left under the governor arm. I'm thinking the points are on the magneto under the blower cover about centerline top of the Flywheel? Not sure it would even have a condenser if it's a pull start? I'm no mechanic, feel free to set me straight if I'm talking nonsense. I love to learn. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Howie

The Tecumseh does have a condenser under the flywheel along with the points. A bad condenser will not let it fire. If you get in there and the magneto

is held down with two bolts and if moved it affects the timing. Points can be changed without removing the whole unit. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

Garry

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
6bg6ga
On ‎7‎/‎11‎/‎2017 at 9:42 AM, 69-Raider-10 said:

Hello All. Picked up this little feller here a couple days ago and just got around to wrenching on it last night. I cleaned up the carb, put a new plug in, new oil and fuel, and it doesn't want to fire. Checked the spark and I don't see anything. 

Ran fine 2 years ago the guy said and I have every reason to believe him. I guess I have two questions:

1.) What is on this, magneto? Where can I buy one to replace?

2.) I have a Trailblazer 7 with a 7hp Tecumseh pull Start. Think I can pull that magneto off and use it? (Assuming it is indeed a magneto).

As always, Thanks for the help!!

20170707_201640.jpg

20170707_201630.jpg

20170606_014259.jpg

20170606_014220.jpg

 

To me it doesn't make sense to take the snow blower apart to fix the lawn mower. Just buy a new mag if you end up needing it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
69-Raider-10
On 7/11/2017 at 1:42 PM, N3PUY said:

:text-yeahthat:

 

On 7/11/2017 at 8:58 PM, Howie said:

I think the points and condenser would be the place to start. 

 

8 hours ago, Howie said:

The Tecumseh does have a condenser under the flywheel along with the points. A bad condenser will not let it fire. If you get in there and the magneto

is held down with two bolts and if moved it affects the timing. Points can be changed without removing the whole unit. 

 

Update:

As usual you guys were spot on. Dirty points was the culprit. I have to be a straight shooter and admit it took another RS Member to get in there and give them a proper cleaning before we had her sparkin away. So thanks Josh!

Also, an extra shout to Howie for the additional information regarding the points and condenser. It's those little tidbits of information that add to your knowledge base and make you a more efficient and capable . Appreciate the info!! 

That little thing is fun to kick around on.  Looking forward to getting the deck mounted. Missing the rear deck hanger. 

Thanks again!

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
3 minutes ago, 69-Raider-10 said:

you guys were spot on.

:woohoo:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
69-Raider-10
39 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Garry

Thanks Garry. I have since downloaded this manual and it's definitely provided good insight.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Howie

Glad you got it to fire. Sometimes cleaning the points up will do the trick!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • GeoC-120
      By GeoC-120
      The time has come for me to part with my trusty Wheel Horse and find it a new home. I am the second owner (since 2003) and it has always been stored in a garage.
      I am located about 20 minutes south of Rt 80 or 15 minutes north of Rt 78 near Rt 33.
       
      1975 C-120 Special, 8-speed (Model 1-0375, Ser. # 133357). Running (no smoke) 12 hp Tecumseh (Model HH120-120180E, rebuilt 1986). Rebuilt carb, new fuel pump, and new ignition module (in 2006). Good used replacement tank, original tank is included in the sale.  Brand-new battery, fuel filter, and shutoff valve installed 5/26. The transaxle case broke a small piece off (about 1” long by 1/4” wide) on one side of the center flange and was repaired with JB Weld.
      Solid 42” side discharge deck (Model 5-1010) bearings replaced in 2005. Extra set of Gator mulching blades and spare hi-lift blades included. Deck works as it should and is ready to cut.
      42” snow/dozer blade (Model 86-42bc010),  with Rear weights, tire chains and hardware. Blade angles left and right and lifts correctly and is ready to plow.
      Parts: 4 NOS belts and 2 good used belts, NOS taillight lenses, used starter, used ignition module, more (see pic).
      1975 C Series Owner’s manual, 1975 WH accessory catalog, 5-1010 deck manual, original HH-120 manual, updated Tecumseh HH-120 technicians handbook.
       
      Selling entire package for $350 Or Best Offer 
      Deck/Blade/Weights/Parts alone are worth that!
      Please PM to contact

      HH120_running.mp4











    • Tenday
      By Tenday
      Experts - help please. I’m new to Wheel Horse Tractor life! 
       
      So - I’ve pulled out an inherited tractor and have decided to resurrect her. Unfortunately, no spark :/ 
       
      I’m looking for help on diagnosing no spark. 
       
      model - 417-8 
      engine - Kohler KT17
       
      Done thus far:  (aware that some have no implication on spark.) 
       
      - new ignition switch 
      - new battery 
      - new starter
      - new ignition coil and wires w/ plugs 
      - new condenser 
      - new points 
      - new starter solenoid 
      - bypassed all switches except oil and seat. 

      notes:

      idiot lights removed. 
       
      All fuses tested with Ohms as well as visual inspection  .. 
       
      coil tested w/ ohms as well
       
      all switches bypassed except: 
      -oil switch  ( don’t think it has any implications other than a visual indication for idiot lights. ) 
      -seat switch 
       
      ran a pos from batt direct to pos of coil - nothing; no spark. 
       
       
      Electric is as follows:  
       
      - Starter switch wired to solenoid
      - - solenoid to starter 
      - - solenoid to batt
       
      - one wire from starter switch goes to engine ( I think this is for batt charge / flywheel) 
       
      - I have two yellow wires, which are married up, that go to engine which have constant power; They power coil.  Comes from switch and seat. 

       
       
       
      Help - what the heck am I missing ? 
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
    • Rollo416H
      By Rollo416H
      I'm new here, but I have years and miles of dealing with electrical issues with my 1997 416H, engine Onan P216G (I am the only owner) . Problem description: the start circuit turns the starter over fine, but no spark at the plugs or the coil sockets by spark tester.  The ignition trigger tests good by connecting a test light to the coil positive and and the ignition trigger negative lead, plenty of light flash from the test light in unison with the engine turning over. So, I conclude the ignition trigger, replaced 3/18/2021 along with the coil is good.  I have followed the "Demystification" wiring diagram in detail and there is 12V at the coil positive terminal, wiriing is solid (for now), all those damn safety switches, key switch,  and relays work too. I conclude that the coil is bad since the primary side tests 3.1 OHM and the secondary tests infinite OHMS (1. displayed on multimeter).  Two coils (Onan part# 166-0820) have NEW dates of 3/2021 and 8/2021, and yes both have the same test results mentioned. Infinite OHMs to me means the coil windings are broken. The most recent coil came from Onanparts.com and tested as mentioned above when it arrived.  Onanparts won't take anything back!  There are a lot of coils on ebay and various suppliers from China.  Maybe good, maybe bad, who can tell? And most suppliers won't accept returned electrical parts. Please help: What are good test readings for a GOOD coil (primary and secondary). Who do you recommend as a reliable supplier for a new coil? 
      Thanks for any help!
      Rollo416H
    • Don66
      By Don66
      I have a 1978 Wheel Horse 8 speed tractor,Kohler 321 engine. I've been working on restoration, finally got the mower deck finished and installed. Before this, the engine was easy to start and ran well. Yesterday it would not start with ignition key, would not even turn over, so I jumped it with a screwdriver between cylinoid and battery. The engine started and ran about 10 seconds and died. Now I get no spark and the engine won't fire off. I checked the wiring and everything seems to be connected and without damage. I don't have test equipment available so I'm stumped at what went wrong. Any suggestions?
    • DHack
      By DHack
      Hello,
      My first Wheel Horse project and new to this form. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I purchased older farm house and this gem was negotiated as part of the deal.
      I believe I have a ~1962/1963 Rounded hood Wheel Horse with Tecumseh engine.
      Can anyone determine the model / Year?
      Got this running with new carbonator and basic tune-up, but now not getting any spark. 
      I am not sure how the points/elec ignition is supposed to work but not getting any voltage reading (.02V) when cranking. Fuse is good, but not sure about resister/capacitors.
      Seems like maybe coil within flywheel could bad, but not sure how to get the fly wheel off to check this further.
      Anyone have seen similar issue that would help me troubleshoot further?
      I'm thinking of putting in a replacement engine if anyone could send me info related to what would work for a replacement?
       
      Serial Number below dash is 62-12492
      There are two tags on the engine 
      Tag above starter (SBH-169C     4313F)
      Tag on front of engine (SBH-169B    2133F)
       
      Thanks
      Dan
       









×
×
  • Create New...