Recently got hold of a 656 it's has a "newer" 61/2 Briggs on it I don't believe that's right any ideas about that
By Little Red Horse
Hey all. I have a Electro 12 with a factory belly blade. It runs* and drives. I had used it to grade my driveway the last 6 yrs. Having moved I'm looking at my options on storing it or selling it. Frankly I have no idea what it is worth. I watched "ISaveTractors" video on 5 things to do with a new to you wheel horse/12hp kohler. (When i got it 6yrs ago) And went thru and did the adjustments and replaced the parts mentioned. It has been a good strong tractor for me until around July of this year. (2023)
*Around July it started dying after running 20-30min. I replaced the carb (Chinese Amazon purchase) with one from isavetractors web site. That seemed to help it idle smoother(the old carbs jets wouldnt adjust), but it still dies at around 20-30min.
So I've got 2 questions.
1. What is it worth? (As-Is) and
2. What do I need to do to fix it?
I am looking for a replacement Kohler for a 1980 c165,it is cradle mounted.
Will a standard mount Kohler work, if I remove the cradle?
I am located in Massachusetts
Hello all. I am looking for suggestions on adapting the pto from my C series tractor to a harbor freight predator 420 13hp engine. I know the predator motors are a controversial topic however it is the route I have chosen for this particular machine. The intent was to mostly use it for plowing so no PTO required but it would be handy to have. Looking to hear from someone that has successfully done the swap that may offer any advice before I attempt to transfer it over. Just looking for any general pointers that will help me along the way to make it go as smoothly as possible.
Experts - help please. I’m new to Wheel Horse Tractor life!
So - I’ve pulled out an inherited tractor and have decided to resurrect her. Unfortunately, no spark :/
I’m looking for help on diagnosing no spark.
model - 417-8
engine - Kohler KT17
Done thus far: (aware that some have no implication on spark.)
- new ignition switch
- new battery
- new starter
- new ignition coil and wires w/ plugs
- new condenser
- new points
- new starter solenoid
- bypassed all switches except oil and seat.
idiot lights removed.
All fuses tested with Ohms as well as visual inspection ..
coil tested w/ ohms as well
all switches bypassed except:
-oil switch ( don’t think it has any implications other than a visual indication for idiot lights. )
ran a pos from batt direct to pos of coil - nothing; no spark.
Electric is as follows:
- Starter switch wired to solenoid
- - solenoid to starter
- - solenoid to batt
- one wire from starter switch goes to engine ( I think this is for batt charge / flywheel)
- I have two yellow wires, which are married up, that go to engine which have constant power; They power coil. Comes from switch and seat.
Help - what the heck am I missing ?