Lane Ranger 11,645 #1 Posted May 24, 2017 (edited) My sister has made a couple backrests (plywood board and upholstery also) for my old Wheel Horses. She has used 3/8 plywood but I have seen other folks use different types of materials. Glued chipboard is not a good materials to use as the embedded three prong threaded 1/4 x 20 clips ( I guess they call these T nuts) that go into the seat back to secure the two screws will often come loose or work out. I am posting pictures of two of the backrests my sister made for me . The measurements on these drawings is what she used to sew up the materials for the seatback. I will note that I took a picture (last picture in this set) of one of the early seatbacks and found it to be one inch wider -so you can take that in consideration if you want to when making. This posting may help some of you wanting to have a seat back made or reupholstered. Edited May 24, 2017 by Lane Ranger 13 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,981 #2 Posted May 24, 2017 Thank you Lane for the info on making seats for these tractors. You were the inspiration for me to make the seat for my 1054 that I haven't gotten around to assemble yet. I got a lot of good information and decided to get a heavy duty sewing machine to sew my seat and back. With everything we do to these great old tractors we need someone to show us we can do it if inspired by someone that's done it before. It's always the little things that discourages people not to try. I think mine came out really good after you posted your seat. I plan on making a new seat for my lawn ranger and these plans will come in handy I love the back rest. 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,645 #3 Posted May 24, 2017 (edited) Very Nice work Bob! Somewhere on Red Square there is another posting about making the 1054/953 seats. The internal wood pieces that were used on those seats and pattern I did three or four years ago! Here is the link: Edited May 24, 2017 by Lane Ranger 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,981 #4 Posted May 24, 2017 That very post is what I used to make the seat and back. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,470 #5 Posted May 24, 2017 Good info! I also have an early 60's original backrest on my 702/852. The wood dry rotted and last fall I cracked it in half moving the tractor around my garage. I'm hoping I can open it up and make a new wood insert for it while re-using the factory cover to keep the retro look. Been trying to figure out if I should use plywood or a board? I'm guessing true plywood is the way to go. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,645 #6 Posted May 24, 2017 I think they even steamed some of those early backrests that had plywood to make a little bit of of bend on the ends. Round the edges and sand if using your old cover. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,470 #7 Posted May 24, 2017 21 minutes ago, Lane Ranger said: I think they even steamed some of those early backrests that had plywood to make a little bit of of bend on the ends. Round the edges and sand if using your old cover. I haven't tried to disassemble yet, but yes, it does look to be curved. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,981 #8 Posted May 24, 2017 REDRANGER you will find the old original seat covers are very dry and will cracks if you try to remove it. Mine was so dry rotted it fell apart in my hand so making a pattern from it was impossible. Good luck on that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 43,380 #9 Posted May 25, 2017 Thanks for the info. Those are some great looking upholstery jobs. I know it's a completely different assembly process, but if you don't mind @Lane Ranger, I'll add some pictures of the seats I have rebuilt. The seat back on my C-101 was broken off and not with the tractor, so I made a pattern from another seat and fabbed a new back. Mrs K does the sewing. The Commando 8 seat back was broken off, so I just had to weld it back to the bottom and make new cushions. I have found the back cushion with the WH Logo is usually OK, so I just add new cording and side panels. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,645 #10 Posted May 25, 2017 (edited) Ed: A very good addition to this post. That two piece seat looks great. My sister is doing a project like that right now. We are trying to save a WH horsehead logo on the back of the two piece black seat and redo the vinyl on the sides. Edited May 25, 2017 by Lane Ranger 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 62,628 #11 Posted May 25, 2017 1 hour ago, Lane Ranger said: We are trying to save a WH horsehead logo on the back of the two piece black seat and redo the vinyl on the sides. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,785 #12 Posted May 25, 2017 Glued chipboard is not a good materials to use as the embedded three prong threaded 1/4 x 20 clips ( I guess they call these T nuts) that go into the seat back to secure the two screws will often come loose or work out. Don't know how they could come out. The nut goes into the wood on the front of the panel and the bolt goes into the nut from the rear. There are different types of T-nuts 1/4" http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=40361&cat=3,43576,61994,40361 5/16" http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=61645&cat=3,43576,61995,61645 Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,645 #13 Posted May 25, 2017 Garry: The chipboard will some times come apart when or if it gets wet, prongs eat into chipboard but not enough to hold, and/or not aligned properly, 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,470 #14 Posted May 27, 2017 The correct plywood is either marine cabinet grade or fine cabinet grade - look for material that has more than 5 layers , 7 layer cabinet grade can take being steam bent and is far stronger . If you can find a cabinet shop locally - those guys will have small leftover/drops around you can get for a song - the stuff in full size sheets is quite expensive . Mrs. K isn't messing about - that Pfaff is one heck of a heavy duty machine for the newer generation types . Nice looking work on the seats folks , upholstery work is an art and takes a lot of time to get it right . Sarge 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,470 #15 Posted June 9, 2017 For anyone wondering what the inside of the original backrests looks like.... I've made a new plywood insert, transferred the T nuts, reapplied the factory foam and put it back together. My cover split on the backside under the metal bracket so I think we can sew the bottom back together and with some staples and duct tape, I can make it work. 99% of the cover damage will be hidden behind the back brace. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,645 #16 Posted June 9, 2017 Thanks for posting these backrest photos Red Ranger! Great details! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DBlackston 323 #17 Posted October 30 Does anyone have dimensions for the metal portion of these backrests? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 8,259 #18 Posted October 30 Nice thread. We picked up an upolstery machine last year. Haven't had time to play with it yet, but Pack Rat, the AC B110, and Big Nasty, the '72 C10, and some bent wood 1940's era couches all need upolstery work. Got some black and white coarse houndstooth pattern material I'm planning for the contrast panels on Big Nasty's bench seat. Ought to be interesting. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,645 #19 Posted October 30 6 hours ago, DBlackston said: Does anyone have dimensions for the metal portion of these backrests? I do not but I believe the L shaped metal backrest bracket dimensions are on Red Square somewhere! I recall someone making their own. The bracket on the bottom of the L. goes on top the metal seat spring on Roundheads. Two holes to accomodate. the seat spring carriage bolt holes. The trick part is the back rest portion. Two bolt holes on the top of the L bracket at a diagonal. This to strenfenhen the backrest board or metal plate (depending on what material you choose to use in you actual backrest. I used good , multi layer plywood -no chipboard. But I have seen metal used too. Foarm to cushion and you can still sometimes find the ribbed vinyl like they used in the 1964 , 1865 Chevys that recreates the original look. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 333 #20 Posted October 30 Would the dimensions for the foam for the plywood back also work work the seats with a metal back? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,645 #21 Posted October 30 Just now, 702854boy said: Would the dimensions for the foam for the plywood back also work work the seats with a metal back? i think they are similar but the metal back is press formed and has a lip around the edges. I think the foam size has to be bigger to cover that with the outside covering -so thr vinyl wont fray or rip on the edges! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites