Duramax7man7 506 #1 Posted May 9, 2017 (edited) Wondering if anyone has replaced the springs with something more solid to stop the blade from angling forward and snapping back? Maybe either some solid braces or hydraulic pistons? I'm looking for a bit more plowing strength when it comes to dozing dirt... Thanks! Edited May 9, 2017 by Mastiffman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,841 #2 Posted May 9, 2017 I did this..... the flat stock is about 1/4" thick..... Use springs to plot the two hole locations... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,376 #3 Posted May 9, 2017 Just remember if it's locked solid and you hit an immovable object there are a couple things that can happen like being flung up over/into the steering wheel or worse, bending the moldboard of the snow/dozer blade, twisting the plow frame ect, slow and easy does it and good luck, Jeff. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,521 #4 Posted May 9, 2017 It takes more pressure to trip the blade if you move the top of the springs to the top holes in the blade. Garry 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #5 Posted May 9, 2017 Gotcha. Yes. I was thinking of a seatbelt! lol -JK. Roger that though. This would be any fast paced slam and move, it would be whatever will give way when scraping. I removed a few fence posts to get a bucket truck into the back of the lot to drop some trees soon and was smoothing out the area under the fence line and noticed that the plow would trip on stubborn sod. Not very functional to me. I have a 3/8" x 4" scraper bar up front that lowers the worry of bending the blade as well as I may create some teeth on. The thought is that if I weld them so that they are flat for scrapping smooth while the blade is in the top hole (say for snow removal) then any setting below that will be for excavating purposes as it will angle them down allowing for better breaking up of the soil and ease of removal. Couple that along with solid bracing and it should do very well. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,841 #6 Posted May 9, 2017 The flat bar stock that I installed on each side, in place of the springs, works very well in pushing hard-pack snow or cutting into a mound of packed dirt / gravel.....without tripping the blade. Of course, slow speed to avoid the FAST IMPACT is common sense. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,714 #7 Posted May 9, 2017 Mid mount blades do better at the kind of project you are describing. Pushing around relatively loose material dozer blades are fine . if you want to level harder stuff a mid mount or rear box blade will work better. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 925 #8 Posted May 9, 2017 12 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Mid mount blades do better at the kind of project you are describing. Pushing around relatively loose material dozer blades are fine . if you want to level harder stuff a mid mount or rear box blade will work better. I have always had a problem pushing hard packed material and my solution has been to tilt the dozer blade back a bit so it digs in. That coupled with down pressure seems to be the best solution I have found. However, can someone explain why a mid mount blade works better? I thought all the blades floated unless you had down pressure. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,714 #9 Posted May 9, 2017 4 minutes ago, doc724 said: I have always had a problem pushing hard packed material and my solution has been to tilt the dozer blade back a bit so it digs in. That coupled with down pressure seems to be the best solution I have found. However, can someone explain why a mid mount blade works better? I thought all the blades floated unless you had down pressure. If you have a hydro you can lift the tractor with the down pressure. That isn't very wise as you loose traction. these are not road graders (even with weights and ag tires traction is an issue) it will take multiple passes but they get the job done. I had the mid mount on a hydro but actually like it better on a manual lift. Pushing forward on the lift handle you can finely control the amount you are taking off and balance it against a loss of traction. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
