Duramax7man7 506 #1 Posted May 7, 2017 Anyone ever had to replace one of these? Long story short.... I do and the screws were not coming out... I cut the head of the screws off... I had to cut the nuts out. The plastic knobs surrounding the nuts on the inside of the tank are still there. QUESTION: Is there any type of fuel proof adhesive or sealant that I can use to reattach the knobs on the inside of the tank? Q2: Anyone have any ideas to install a new FLS unit that had to be cut out? I can post a photo of what I'm working with if need be. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,289 #2 Posted May 7, 2017 I have extra tanks here. I do not want to part with a sending unit however. Or, you could install a tank without the sender unit and just manually check the fuel level before you start it. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #3 Posted May 7, 2017 (edited) How much do you want for the tank with a fuel level sender? All in good working order? No rust on the sending unit? Shipping would be to 48152. EDIT: I'd rather keep the tractor in originally intended functionality. Edited May 7, 2017 by Mastiffman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #5 Posted May 7, 2017 Good idea. Last night I was thinking of using a hot glue gun with polyolefin glue sticks. I read that this type has the best adhesion and repair properties of all hot glue sticks to HDPE which is what I believe the tanks are made of... The outside of the tanks inner plastic bubbles that held the nuts for mounting the sending unit are still intact. So what I use, I would need to just place the new nuts inside the bubbles and glue them completely shut. Seems like the old ones are aluminum and were massively corroded. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,523 #6 Posted May 7, 2017 Slowly, using a soldering gun PE (polyethylene) welds nicely. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #7 Posted May 7, 2017 touching the plastic or no? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,523 #8 Posted May 7, 2017 (edited) 4 hours ago, Mastiffman said: touching the plastic or no? Yes. Gun on the plastic, melt and slowly pull. Although plastic welding rod is sold, never purchased any. Have cut some strips from milk jugs and used that when I needed a little filler. UV is polyethylene' worst enemy. Exterior latex house paint blocks UV and is designed (engineered) to expand and contract. Edited May 7, 2017 by Tankman 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #9 Posted May 9, 2017 Well here is the FLS unit that was in the 91' 520h.... WOW... Moral? Don't leave your tractors outside and at LEAST cover them well somehow. Even if you plan on selling them off. Someone will one day care about them. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shuboxlover 481 #10 Posted May 10, 2017 I have a complete tank and good sender if you're interested. Send me a PM if you are. Tyson Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6bg6ga 272 #11 Posted May 10, 2017 http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=159/mode=cat/cat159.htm Will these work? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #12 Posted May 10, 2017 (edited) I don't see why not if you get the appropriate one. If they make one in the right ohm range and it can be set to the right length. I would make sure that I tested a good FLS unit first or find the Ohm range that the unit has. This will tell you if you can even match one up first. Edited May 10, 2017 by Mastiffman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EricF 589 #13 Posted May 10, 2017 That's one ugly sender unit! I'd be worried about how much other nasty gunk is in the fuel tank, and how much moisture got in! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #14 Posted May 11, 2017 (edited) I hear ya. Here is the old fuel tank... the hood stand fuel and seat mounting bracket broke and the PO must have filled the trans and forgot to tighten one of the bolts down for air escape while filling and allow the whole are to shift forward which caused the fuel tank to hit the trans cooling fan... I repaired the hood stand and and got a new fuel tank as well as reset the bracket that attaches to the top of the axle. In the process I decided to fix the very loose steering and found a few cracks in the steering tower portion of the hood stand. I removed the wiring harness, power washed everything and welded everything back up and coated with some rustoleum satin black and reassembled. Has a new steering shaft bushing as well as the old tie rods, lower steering shaft and steering support from my 95' 312-8s being I slapped a swept front axle in that. Everything is nice tight now. Very easy to steer. Before the whole steering tower would move. It was a mess. This was after cutting out the broken sections of the support. All welded up and solid. Quickly painted for protection. All back together with new tank from A-Z Tractors. Thanks Lincoln! Edited May 11, 2017 by Mastiffman 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
