squonk 38,965 #1 Posted April 18, 2017 Tearing down a K 301. Head bolt started to come out then bound up some. Finished spinning it out and only part of it came out. Pulled the head and the remaining piece spun out easily with my fingers. If I put the pieces together it looks like part of the bolt was eaten away! 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,233 #2 Posted April 18, 2017 How close was that bolt to the exhaust port stuff?? Cents, since, sense you did not ask a question. Hi Mike 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerry77 1,218 #3 Posted April 18, 2017 29 minutes ago, squonk said: it looks like part of the bolt was eaten away That is strange - it looks like it sheared as it was being tightened ! ! Defective bolt maybe ?? That's a new one on me.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 10,296 #4 Posted April 18, 2017 Definitely your lucky day Mike. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,814 #5 Posted April 18, 2017 Yah that's bizarre. .. I'm with Bob....quick go buy a lottery ticket! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6bg6ga 271 #6 Posted April 18, 2017 If it were me I would go grab a tap and run it down the hole carefully. It probably doesn't need it but it only takes a second and if by chance a burr was kicked up the tap will clean the threads good. Check the head for flatness. I would also replace ALL the bolts for that head making sure you have the correct grade and I would lightly coat the threads with anti-seeze. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,965 #7 Posted April 19, 2017 (edited) The bolt was in the rear of the head. All of the bolt holes have been tapped. Just recieved new grade 8 flange head bolts from Fastenal today. sent from a pile of leaves in Dino's back yard using Crapatalk Edited April 19, 2017 by squonk 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ACman 7,514 #8 Posted April 19, 2017 (edited) I GOT IT ... some Deere infected with CWD most have gotten to close and it stated eating away at the headbolt ! CWD is no joke and we need to take this seriously here's some important question info on it. http://cwd-info.org/faq/ Edited April 19, 2017 by ACman 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
benji756 341 #9 Posted April 19, 2017 If you put anti sieze on head bolts theres a chance you won't get the proper toqure specs on them, its better to lightly coat with motor oil, just my .02 worth. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6bg6ga 271 #10 Posted April 19, 2017 I'll have to politely disagree with you. The block is aluminum the bolts are steel and thus anti-sieze is a must. A light coating will NOT affect the ability to obtain the correct torque specifications. This is exactly why we see pictures of broken head bolts. Respectfully, I have been there with anything from aluminum block racing engines to something as simple as a Procharger D1R installation on the 4th gen Z-28 I owned. Believe me its no fun to extract bolts from a $2500.00 set of heads when a small amount of anti-seize would have curred the problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
benji756 341 #11 Posted April 19, 2017 We can agree to disagree on this one 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6bg6ga 271 #12 Posted April 19, 2017 Thats fine. I've built a lot of engines in the past and my experience says use anti seize on threads in heads and copper anti-seize in spark plug holes. I've never had a problem in the last 25 or more years doing it this way. never had to put a heli-coil in a head after going to copper based anti-seize either and before that I have had to replace a number of in outboard motors. Anti-seize decreases the effort needed to apply the correct torque. The correct anti-seize safe guards even with high head temps. This is all in articles on the web. I have yet to find one that singles out small engines and specifically says not to use anti-seize. But, like you said "We can agree to disagree." I also use anti-seize when I put the barrel and barrel nut on a AR-15 receiver simply because an aluminum nut is being screwed on a aluminum thread in the upper receiver. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
benji756 341 #13 Posted April 19, 2017 I am well aware of the benefits of using antisieze in the proper applications being a machine builder and machine repair man for 30 plus years I just never thought it was a good idea to use it in certain areas but I would never discredit you or anyone else who has had success with using it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,965 #14 Posted April 19, 2017 2 hours ago, 6bg6ga said: I'll have to politely disagree with you. The block is aluminum the bolts are steel and thus anti-sieze is a must. A light coating will NOT affect the ability to obtain the correct torque specifications. This is exactly why we see pictures of broken head bolts. Respectfully, I have been there with anything from aluminum block racing engines to something as simple as a Procharger D1R installation on the 4th gen Z-28 I owned. Believe me its no fun to extract bolts from a $2500.00 set of heads when a small amount of anti-seize would have curred the problem. The block is cast iron. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6bg6ga 271 #15 Posted April 19, 2017 For some reason I thought the engine was an Onan. Your right I'm wrong you have a Kohler engine with a cast iron block. That will teach me to read from the start of a thread or to not get up in the middle of the night and post because I can't sleep. I still like anti-seize. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,965 #16 Posted April 19, 2017 (edited) We have a guy at work who likes anti-seize. Every time we have to work on anything we get covered with it! Edited April 19, 2017 by squonk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 6,796 #17 Posted April 19, 2017 18 hours ago, Jerry77 said: That is strange - it looks like it sheared as it was being tightened ! ! Defective bolt maybe ? I agree, perhaps over-tightened going in. Without seeing the rest of the bolt, it appears to be of lower quality 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,814 #18 Posted April 19, 2017 http://arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php#p7TPMc1_6 for those who want to know more. I also have used anti seize with no issues but will probably start using a product like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9909?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-arp&gclid=Cj0KEQjwldzHBRCfg_aImKrf7N4BEiQABJTPKC-YVsDNWsspKZASmYHcKw0OXO7hLdlpi-oqPhYVCL8aAhv_8P8HAQ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tunahead72 2,343 #19 Posted April 19, 2017 19 hours ago, squonk said: sent from a pile of leaves in Dino's back yard using Crapatalk That's funny, does Steve know you were there? For what it's worth, the Kohler K-series service manual recommends engine oil for lubricating the head bolts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,965 #20 Posted April 19, 2017 (edited) 4 hours ago, lynnmor said: I agree, perhaps over-tightened going in. Without seeing the rest of the bolt, it appears to be of lower quality A lot of the bolts were very tight when I took them out. Also I noticed how shiny they were and thought they were run of the mill hardware store bolts but they were grade 8's sent from under Aldon's umbrella using crapatalk Edited April 19, 2017 by squonk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,814 #21 Posted April 20, 2017 So the question still stands Mike what are you going to use when you run them back in? I'm with Tuna if thats what the manual says? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6bg6ga 271 #22 Posted April 20, 2017 1 hour ago, WHX11 said: So the question still stands Mike what are you going to use when you run them back in? I'm with Tuna if thats what the manual says? And that manual was printed in what year? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,814 #23 Posted April 20, 2017 The year horses were made of our grandfather's steel. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,965 #24 Posted April 20, 2017 (edited) Black oil/phosphate finish grade 8 flange head bolts from Fastenal. 6 2 1/4" and 3 2 1/2" https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0142777?r=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600001 Bolts"|~ ~|categoryl3:"600015 Flange Bolts"|~ ~|sattr02:^3/8"-16$|~ ~|sattr03:^2-1/4"$|~ Edited April 20, 2017 by squonk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites