Wheel Horse as a Dozer?

[jellyghost 378]

I have two opportunities to do a little bit of dirt work with my Wheel Horse, but I am unsure if it is possible.  I would be comfortable using the blade to move compost or loose dirt, but can it be used to scrape an inch or two of settled ground?  If so, is there a trick?

[Elkskin's mower junkyard 1,117]

3 minutes ago, jellyghost said:

I have two opportunities to do a little bit of dirt work with my Wheel Horse, but I am unsure if it is possible.  I would be comfortable using the blade to move compost or loose dirt, but can it be used to scrape an inch or two of settled ground?  If so, is there a trick?

it can be done but is a little hard lol. but what works better is take a plow like you would use in a garden plow up ground first then move it carefully with blade.

[jellyghost 378]

Is there something that "trips" the blade if it hits an immovable object?  OR does the tractor just come to a stop?  

 

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

If one has the correct blade it has springs from the frame to the moldboard that trips if hitting something solid and then it also has extra holes that allow you to dial in how much tension, Jeff.

[MalMac 1,328]

The extra spring holes on the blade are there to aid in how you want you blade to perform. If you put your trip spings in the upper holes the blade will bill leaned forward cause a more skimming affect not allowing the blade to dig in as bad. Lower holes allow blade to be tilted back causing  the blade to want to dig in instead of a skimming action. Just remember it's s garden tractor and not a heavy earth moving dozed. You can keep skimming dirt with several passes and get down to where you want to be. Your just not going to have enough weight to get the traction needed to cut layers of ground, especially if the ground has never been disturb before. Even big dozer have trouble pushing virgin hard pack ground from time to time. That's why you see big rippers on the back of them, so they can loosen up the dirt first. 

 

I just re-read what I posted early this morning before coffee. It should be just the opposite. Upper holes cause blade to lean back not forward, thus causing a more of dig down action. No more post before morning coffee.

Edited March 13, 2017 by MalMac

[Tankman 3,515]

A mid-mount grader blade would be best. 

[Ed Kennell 35,923]

The blade will trip when it hits a solid object,  but it is not  good for the tractor.   The frame to transaxle plate will suffer damage.

Best to loosen the ground first...plow, ripper, or even a carefully slowly operated tiller.

[Sarge 3,462]

I've done a lot dirt work over the years with my Wheel Horses - biggest trick is to use a disk or cultivator first to break the compacted topsoil , then blade to your heart's content . Once you get a cut started I generally only use half the blade to do the next cut to minimize stress on the blade and tractor .I rarely use the rear most setting on the blades since at that angle they will dig quite aggressively - usually the second hole from the top is perfect . Don't expect more than a couple inches per pass and you must work carefully not to compact the dirt again by making too many trips back and forth - the weight of the tractor will pack the ground quite well . Get it close to final grade and use the blade in the tipped or vertical position to level everything by back dragging the material . Just re-graded the parking area out back last week , now we got a decent snowfall finishing up this morning so I'll probably have to plow later today...hope it all froze down well enough but it's doubtful .

Again , take your time and you'll be surprised at what that Horse is capable of doing...

 

Sarge

[jellyghost 378]

Thank you for the great answers!  I don't have a plow or cultivator to rip the ground. It is now definitely on my shopping list.

[Sarge 3,462]

Don't rule out spike-tooth drags , either . I had an old one given to me a few years ago that is very heavily built and fully adjustable . With those teeth facing almost straight down it will rip down almost 4" after a few passes - after that I can use the front blade . On gravel that needs leveled/repaired - I make one pass with the drag , drop the blade on the second pass and push off the material the drag broke loose on the first pass . It takes some serious traction to do this , hence my old 1277 having rear wheels that weigh 140#'s each and ags/chains (now, broken rear frame plate too, lol) .

 

If I can get time this summer , wanting to build a center grader blade for the D-180 , including the ripper teeth . I have a long cutting edge from an old road grader blade section I got my hands on a few years ago and stashed away , the D should have enough weight/grunt to make it work .

 

Sarge

[82Caddy 851]

I've used those walk behind tillers to loosen up dirt and then push it with the blade. I used the walk behind tiller because it was a freebie that didn't run so relplaced engine with a HF special. Now it gets passed around to everyone who needs it. 

[slim67 2,730]

A power rake is ideal but Ive only seen them for category 0-1 hitches with rear PTO. I wouldnt use the blade as a dozer with what your doing. You dont have the weight , traction or downpressure on your blade IMO and very little breakout force, unlike a track dozer.. Spreading loose material is one thing like stone or sand but virgin hardpacked is another. At least do like Sarge says and loosen it up with a tiller or a grader box with ripper teeth. Good luck

[slim67 2,730]

On 3/12/2017 at 11:02 PM, jellyghost said:

I have two opportunities to do a little bit of dirt work with my Wheel Horse, but I am unsure if it is possible.  I would be comfortable using the blade to move compost or loose dirt, but can it be used to scrape an inch or two of settled ground?  If so, is there a trick?

If you have a sleeve hitch, you can get this Brinly grader box for $230 according to the Home Depot website. I dont know if you want to spend that amount but these are probably the best choice for what you intend to do. 

[jellyghost 378]

3 hours ago, slim67 said:

If you have a sleeve hitch, you can get this Brinly grader box for $230 according to the Home Depot website. I dont know if you want to spend that amount but these are probably the best choice for what you intend to do. 

I don't have a sleeve hitch.  Does somebody make them new?  What is the best way to get one.

[Ed Kennell 35,923]

You need the clevis hitch ....I just sold my last one. I do have a sleeve hitch.     Put an ad in our wanted section.

 

This is the sleeve hitch.

 

 

For both of these hitches to operate properly, you also need the rock shaft, bushings, and cable and sheath.

 

Edited March 15, 2017 by Ed Kennell

[slim67 2,730]

11 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

You need the clevis hitch ....I just sold my last one. I do have a sleeve hitch.     Put an ad in our wanted section.

 

This is the sleeve hitch.

 

 

For both of these hitches to operate properly, you also need the rock shaft, bushings, and cable and sheath.

 

Is the slot also called a sleeve Ed? I thought the Brinly was called a sleeve aside from being called clevis. Thanks for clearing that up.

50 minutes ago, jellyghost said:

I don't have a sleeve hitch.  Does somebody make them new?  What is the best way to get one.

wheelhorseman1000 is a good start unless you find a used one like Ed suggested. Ill be needing one myself soon.

[Ed Kennell 35,923]

I always referred to the Brinley type as a clevis hitch because the implement half  is C shaped like a clevis and attaches with a pin like a clevis.

 

I have seen the other one called both  a slot and a sleeve hitch.    I think both names fit that design.

 

That's why I like pictures Slim.  

Edited March 15, 2017 by Ed Kennell

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

As the way I was brought up in the garden tractor world the clevis hitch is the sleeve hitch as Cub Cadet referred it as sleeve hitches in their literature (and some refer to this as a 3 point style hitch and IMHO a little better set up being ALL mechanical linkage than WH with the cable and chain but I digress), but as Ed has said the implement  attachment has a "C" to couple over the tractors' receiving hitch , and the older WH was a "slot" where attachments were pinned by/through thick flat bar, Jeff.

[Ed Kennell 35,923]

There ya go Slim.  You can call them sleeve, you can call them slots, or you can call them clevis.      Just don't call them RayJay. 

[slim67 2,730]

1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

There ya go Slim.  You can call them sleeve, you can call them slots, or you can call them clevis.      Just don't call them RayJay. 

I remember when my parents bought a brand new tiller for their sears, you had to buy the 3 pt adapter in order to use the new tiller. I thought I remember my Dad saying sleeve hitch and it stuck with me. I think I will just say Brinly since we all know what that is. 

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

Sleeve hitch is not a slot hitch.  Sleeve hitch is a generic term and it's design is covered by an ISO (International Standard).  It's a standard design used by all lawn and garden tractor manufacturers, as well as allied attachment manufacturers, i.e. Brinly, Agri-Fab, Ohio Steel, etc.  The different tractor manufacturers may have their own term for a sleeve hitch, but they're all sleeve hitches per the ISO standard (ISO 9192) which has the term "Sleeve Hitch" in it's title.  Cub cadet calls it a sleeve hitch, as well as Sears, MTD and others.  Wheel Horse calls it a clevis hitch, while John Deere calls it Integral Hitch.  But, they're all sleeve hitches designed to meet the ISO standard.

 

A slot hitch, uses a slot in the hitch to engage an attachment, and was limited to just a few manufacturers, mostly Wheel Horse and a few others.  I haven't seen the design used all cross all manufacturers like the sleeve hitch design, and I don't know if there is an ISO standard to it's design requirements.

 

I hope this clears up the differences in those type hitches.  We won't discuss the category 0 3 point hitches because that is an option that isn't readily available on most Wheel Horses and the attachments are very expensive and most aren't in production anymore since manufacturers have now gone to a limited category 1 3 point hitch design.

 

For a new clevis hitch kit, go here:  http://www.wheelhorseman1000.com/

 

Lowell is a vendor here at RS, you can see his vendor page here:

 

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/141-wheelhorseman1000s-hitches-brackets-parts-and-more/

 

 

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

Well thanks for clearing that up in those words, but that's pretty much what I was saying above, another tid bit check out "cubcadetspecialties.com" for some ideas ect on sleeve hitches and cat "0" 3pt parts ect that may be able to be fabbed to work on our beloved , Jeff.

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

49 minutes ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

Well thanks for clearing that up in those words, but that's pretty much what I was saying above, another tid bit check out "cubcadetspecialties.com" for some ideas ect on sleeve hitches and cat "0" 3pt parts ect that may be able to be fabbed to work on our beloved , Jeff.

Jeff,

I just wanted to clear up the confusion on slot hitches versus sleeve hitch terminology.  As you mentioned, the term sleeve hitch is used for what is standard across the industry, but it isn't a slot hitch as to what Wheel Horse refers to the term "slot hitch".

[Ed Kennell 35,923]

6 hours ago, T-Mo said:

Sleeve hitch is not a slot hitch. 

  Cub cadet calls it a sleeve hitch, as well as Sears, MTD and others.  Wheel Horse calls it a clevis hitch, while John Deere calls it Integral Hitch. 

 

A slot hitch, uses a slot in the hitch to engage an attachment, and was limited to just a few manufacturers, mostly Wheel Horse and a few others. 

 

 

 

Thanks for the clarification T-Mo.  I can't argue with ISO standards as I followed them, and made a few revisions  to some,  for 40+ years.

 

I think has a more accurate  descriptive name for the two hitches in question and since I am an old dog ( slow to learn), and I only deal in , please bear with me as I will probably continue to use the  names for their hitches.

 

               My clevis hitch

 

 

                My slot  hitch

 

 

[slim67 2,730]

9 hours ago, T-Mo said:

Sleeve hitch is not a slot hitch.  Sleeve hitch is a generic term and it's design is covered by an ISO (International Standard).  It's a standard design used by all lawn and garden tractor manufacturers, as well as allied attachment manufacturers, i.e. Brinly, Agri-Fab, Ohio Steel, etc.  The different tractor manufacturers may have their own term for a sleeve hitch, but they're all sleeve hitches per the ISO standard (ISO 9192) which has the term "Sleeve Hitch" in it's title.  Cub cadet calls it a sleeve hitch, as well as Sears, MTD and others.  Wheel Horse calls it a clevis hitch, while John Deere calls it Integral Hitch.  But, they're all sleeve hitches designed to meet the ISO standard.

 

A slot hitch, uses a slot in the hitch to engage an attachment, and was limited to just a few manufacturers, mostly Wheel Horse and a few others.  I haven't seen the design used all cross all manufacturers like the sleeve hitch design, and I don't know if there is an ISO standard to it's design requirements.

 

I hope this clears up the differences in those type hitches.  We won't discuss the category 0 3 point hitches because that is an option that isn't readily available on most Wheel Horses and the attachments are very expensive and most aren't in production anymore since manufacturers have now gone to a limited category 1 3 point hitch design.

 

For a new clevis hitch kit, go here:  http://www.wheelhorseman1000.com/

 

Lowell is a vendor here at RS, you can see his vendor page here:

 

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/141-wheelhorseman1000s-hitches-brackets-parts-and-more/

 

 

As a side note and not that its in the same league but I think the Farmall Cub uses its own style of " slot hitch" Gotta go dinners done!