Debate

[AlwaysLookin80 1,308]

I'll be done with my 57 rj 35 this spring and can't decide if I should restore my 56 or keep it original. It's not that bad, but the recoil is a different color and the belt cover is in primer. 

[Shynon 7,456]

If it were mine I would leave original and find the parts needed in correct color to make it all original. Sometimes it's the fun of the hunt. 

[AlwaysLookin80 1,308]

31 minutes ago, Shynon said:

If it were mine I would leave original and find the parts needed in correct color to make it all original. Sometimes it's the fun of the hunt. 

That's what i was kinda thinking or paint the parts and age them

[953 nut 54,839]

I have read that if you expose air dried enamel to an ultraviolet heat lamp it will "age" it. Certainly you can distress the finish with sand paper, chains etc. Follow that up with some muriatic acid and wash with water and the exposed steel will flash to rust.

[SPINJIM 1,981]

Mix up some Rustoleum Regal Red, about 15% Leather Brown, and just a pinch of White.   Play with the mix until you get close to the original faded color.  You have to let a sample of each trial mix dry completely to see how it will turn out.

   Good luck,  Jim

[AlwaysLookin80 1,308]

Thanks for the info. What about the frame? It's really flaky rusted.

32 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

I have read that if you expose air dried enamel to an ultraviolet heat lamp it will "age" it. Certainly you can distress the finish with sand paper, chains etc. Follow that up with some muriatic acid and wash with water and the exposed steel will flash to rust.

This works good? 

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Rare to see one that nice. I'd clean as best I could and keep it as original as I could. 

 

Second look and I did a closeup on the frame. Does look pretty rusty.  Same opinion for now.  Down the road you & I could change opinions if you don't restore it.  Never can get original back though... 

Edited February 19, 2017 by DennisThornton
Frame

[rjg854 11,298]

1 hour ago, Shynon said:

If it were mine I would leave original and find the parts needed in correct color to make it all original. Sometimes it's the fun of the hunt. 

ThI

Th

Edited February 19, 2017 by Ranger13148
Not resonding at all

[953 nut 54,839]

1 hour ago, J.A. said:

Thanks for the info. What about the frame? It's really flaky rusted.

Pulled from another post going on right now about a Suburban.

Shynon says use boiled linseed oil. He was right it seems to dry after awhile and dust and stuff will wash right off.

also; be safe!

Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) is a common item in my shop and in a lot of woodworker’s shops. It is a great oil treatment for woods, leaving a smooth touch on the surface. It revitalizes old dried wood and gives it a new life.

Copyright: / 123RF Stock Photo

BLO is often mixed with other finishes and was once one of the main ingredients in most paints. There are still companies that make linseed oil paints like Allback if you’re interested.

Boiled Linseed Oil is not actually “boiled” like the name suggests, rather it is chemically modified to encourage faster drying. Slow drying oils are a good thing, but regular linseed oil can take weeks or even months to fully cure in cold weather and that’s just too stinking long. Boiled Linseed Oil will dry in only a few days give or take depending on weather.

As awesome as this product is for both wood and metal it has some dangers (specifically flammability) that need to be addressed in order to use it safely. Let’s talk about safety first.

Boiled Linseed Oil Safety

The hard truth is that Boiled Linseed Oil can spontaneously combust if stored or used improperly.

“Why on earth would you use it then?”

Well, gasoline is a lot more flammable than BLO and I don’t hear anyone calling their cars a death trap (except Corvair owners).

Here’s what happens: BLO cures by a chemical reaction with the surrounding oxygen in the air not by evaporation like water based finishes. This reaction generates heat like most chemical reactions. The heat generated can be intense in certain circumstances and can lead to spontaneous combustion.

Larger amounts of BLO create greater heat. Smaller quantities generate less heat.

 

How to Avoid Fires

• Always store BLO in metal containers. You can pour it into plastic containers for temporary use, but for long term storage it should be in a metal container.
• Any rags soaked with BLO should be laid flat on a non-flammable surface away from flammable items until they are completely dry or they can be placed in a metal container with water.

The most common source of BLO fires is from a wadded up rag that has been soaked in BLO. The rag is wadded up and thrown in the trash with wood dust, newspapers or other kindling.

Since it is wadded up it generates more heat because there is no air to pass over it and cool it. It then heats up to the flash point of the surrounding materials and the fire starts.

[Terry M-(Moderator) 2,172]

5 hours ago, J.A. said:

I'll be done with my 57 rj 35 this spring and can't decide if I should restore my 56 or keep it original. It's not that bad, but the recoil is a different color and the belt cover is in primer. 

I know I'm a little late in the game here, But I'd leave it alone too...maybe just clean it up and find some closer matching parts Like Shynon said.

Why?...I just like the way it looks.    That Tractor , IMO, has a lot of character in the way it looks.    Well worth keeping original.

[AlwaysLookin80 1,308]

6 minutes ago, Terry M said:

I know I'm a little late in the game here, But I'd leave it alone too...maybe just clean it up and find some closer matching parts Like Shynon said.

Why?...I just like the way it looks.    That Tractor , IMO, has a lot of character in the way it looks.    Well worth keeping original.

I'm leaning towards original also. 

[RedHorse54 578]

I'd keep it original, those are getting very hard to find with their original work clothes

that decal on the front of the hood looks very original also, i wonder what the story of that is. Its patina perfectly matches the others.

[can whlvr 993]

I guess I'm gonna really stir the pot here,when you guys post those pics of your nicly rebuilt tractors I just smile,these arnt worth tens of thousands of dollars,so do  what will make you hsppy,but I  am talking about nice restorations,not sprayed paint over decals and grease,a proper job with nive new decals from terry and your good to go

[AMC RULES 37,117]

 ...it's supposed to be fun.  

[AlwaysLookin80 1,308]

5 hours ago, can whlvr said:

I guess I'm gonna really stir the pot here,when you guys post those pics of your nicly rebuilt tractors I just smile,these arnt worth tens of thousands of dollars,so do  what will make you hsppy,but I  am talking about nice restorations,not sprayed paint over decals and grease,a proper job with nive new decals from terry and your good to go

Here's one I did so if I did restore it it would look like this. 

[AMC RULES 37,117]

Faithful to the  original...

and very tastefully done. 

That I definitely like.  

[Firpo701 407]

18 hours ago, J.A. said:

I'll be done with my 57 rj 35 this spring and can't decide if I should restore my 56 or keep it original. It's not that bad, but the recoil is a different color and the belt cover is in primer. 

I think she's sharp just the way it sits! Awesome little machine. 😎

[AlwaysLookin80 1,308]

Thank you gentleman 

[can whlvr 993]

as long as shes well taken care of either way is just fine,but that unit of J.A. sure looks good

[WHX?? 48,586]

I vote leave as is & try to patina the recoil Jesse. Maybe a little cleaning & mechanical soundness.  Like someone else said you can always resto later if the mood hits ya but ya can't go back to original.