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AHenry014

GT1100 Briggs to Kohler swap

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Hey all,

I have a 1984 GT1100 with the 11hp briggs on it that i dont care for.  Its hard to start, even with a clean carb, and smokes like the dickens when cold.  It also seems down on power compared to the 10hp Kohler i am used to. That said, I have a great running 10HP Kohler Magnum from a 1988 310-8 that i would like to swap on.  As far as i can tell, it should physically bolt right up as it was on the 310-8.  I kept everything that looks important from the 310.

 

I am, however, concerned with the wiring.  When i was disassembling the the 310-8, i grabbed the entire chassis harness just in case i needed it if/when i decided to swap the engine to the GT.  I would prefer not to have to swap the harness, but will if i need to, assuming both tractors use all the same safety switches (normally open vs normally closed).  I can tell that the Kohler used a regulator/rectifier of sorts, and has a couple fuse holders that my GT does not.  Anyone have experience with this particular swap and can give me a couple pointers?

Thanks

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I put a 14 Kohler on a 1142. It was however a K series which are easy for me to wire. The electric is my weak point. I didnt think the 10 Kohler Magnum had a regulator.  I thought there were only diodes to control the voltage. My 87 was like that anyway. And it overcharged bad. The 10 will go right on that tractor with no mods. except wiring and throttle and choke routeing. Good Luck! And welcome to the forum!

IMG_2533.JPG

Edited by Wishin4a416
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The spec number on the M10 should identify the charging system. There is a chance the early 1988 models used the 3amp dual system like the B&S and then went to the 15 amp regulated system.

Garry

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18 hours ago, Wishin4a416 said:

I put a 14 Kohler on a 1142. It was however a K series which are easy for me to wire. The electric is my weak point. I didnt think the 10 Kohler Magnum had a regulator.  I thought there were only diodes to control the voltage. My 87 was like that anyway. And it overcharged bad. The 10 will go right on that tractor with no mods. except wiring and throttle and choke routeing. Good Luck! And welcome to the forum!

IMG_2533.JPG

 

I have a pair of Ag's coming my way.  This picture excites me for that!

 

16 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

The spec number on the M10 should identify the charging system. There is a chance the early 1988 models used the 3amp dual system like the B&S and then went to the 15 amp regulated system.

Garry

 

I will take a look at the wiring harness i yanked off.  I remember pulling a silver box off the right side engine "compartment" near the PTO lever, near where they stick the fuse holder(s).  Not sure what else that would be besides a R/R.  

 

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2 hours ago, AHenry014 said:

 

I have a pair of Ag's coming my way.  This picture excites me for that!

 

 

I will take a look at the wiring harness i yanked off.  I remember pulling a silver box off the right side engine "compartment" near the PTO lever, near where they stick the fuse holder(s).  Not sure what else that would be besides a R/R.  

 

I believe that silver box would be a relay

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did some more research, per this parts list:

https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro/mowers-lawn-garden-tractor/21-10k805-310-8-toro-310-8-garden-tractor-1988/electrical-system_3/

it is in fact a relay.  Comparing wiring diagrams found on this site, it appears this relay is only used for the oil swith/test light business.  I wont be fitting that system.  It looks like this shouldnt be too bad a swap.  The wiring should be more or less cut and splice from the newer harness.  Thanks all! Will report back when i get to the project.   

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4 hours ago, AHenry014 said:

interesting.  how do i go about determining which charging system it features?

If you dont find a regulator then I would say it is the unregulated system. The regulator on my 312 Magnum is located on the left side of the engine shroud not to far from the carb. Looks like this. Like Garry mentioned, there were the 2 systems in 88

reg.jpeg

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ah, thank you for that.  I dragged the engine out of the corner and took a peek.  It appears as though it does have a regulator, though i do not think that really changes the wiring all that much, looking at the diagrams.  Should be able to hook it up nearly the same as the current engine is and shes a runner.  

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Posting back for future reference, i did not actually end up doing this swap.  The briggs just kept running better and better the more i used it.  It runs fabulously now, so i see no reason to remove it from a perfectly good working tractor.  

 

I did end up using the M10 in a 314H frame.  It works wonderfully, but i don't think i care for the hydro system.  I prefer the clutch.  

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Briggs engines are known for sticking their rings if they sit a lot - most times some fresh oil and working it hard will knock them loose and clean out the carbon buildup. Just a few oil changes on short intervals might remove excess carbon as well as not letting it idle a lot. All these engines are built to run at a load and wide open throttle - so keep that in mind.

 

Sarge

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thank you for the heads up.  I realized most of my hard starting issues were due to a misadjusted choke.  Once i took care of that, it was just a matter of use to get the smoking to cease.  

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